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Old 09-08-2014, 02:02 AM   #15
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
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Third coat. Oh I forgot to mention (if you didn't see my end cap thread) how to apply spray paint. Sorry I know this may be obvious to some, but there are others that have never worked with it before. When using...Ah, hell...I'm just gonna cut and paste from my other thread....see below


Here is the bathroom thread...One thing to check before painting yours in to ensure it has not been painted before with an unknown product. In my Argosys bathroom I used the krylon fusion spray paint for plastic. The krylon molecularly bonds with plastic. The fixtures were very yellowed and hideous before now the are a nice glossy ivory, you cannot tell it was sprayed on it is a smooth clean finish. To prep the surface use the 000 steel wool to give it all a good scrub and scuff and that will supply a bit of texture for the product to adhere properly. Clean thoughly with a Mr Clean Magic eraser and pine sol and allow to dry. Tape of any areas you don't want to hit with the over spray (tape far and wide spray paint travel well in a trailer) Spray on your first thin coat holding the can eight inches from the surface go in a wide sweeping back and forth pattern never shifting direction on the surface you are painting or you WILL get runs, allow to dry one hour and give it a once over with 000 steel wool again wash clean and let dry again. On the can it says additional coats can reapplied between 1 and 24 hours or it must cure for 7 days before applying the next coat.

I did my bathroom 5 years ago it still look great. We fill our tub and sink full of all sorts of stuff while traveling the logging roads boondocking and the paint has never scraped off, so it is very durable. I have attached a pic of the sink area as it is now 5 years on, used regularly and roughly by a family of 5 and one of the fridge hood scoop that I have not gotten around to doing yet. The entire bathroom was the color of the hood scoop before using the Krylon. I plan to do my end caps soon using the same product. It is in every hardware store up here on Vancouver Island so I would expect it is readily available somewhere near you. Good luck.

PS, My end caps are done now and they look awesome ☺
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Old 09-08-2014, 02:04 AM   #16
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
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Oops here is the pic of the third coat.
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Old 09-08-2014, 02:08 AM   #17
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
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Back in to the fridge, I took extra caution to tape all the way around each knob and the pilot light viewer as I was worried about over spray, then I taped of the whole info bar. You can see from in the lower left where the decal I removed was what color the fridge is supposed to be ☺
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Old 09-08-2014, 11:37 AM   #18
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1981 31' Excella II
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Nice job. What you going to do with the old rusty shelves?

Perry
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Old 09-08-2014, 11:44 PM   #19
The Sign Lady
 
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Hi Perry, they are in really rough shape, so the first thing will be to sandblast them to remove the scaling of chrome and rust. My guy is going to be doing some sandblasting at work this week so he is going to do the shelves at the same time. That gives me a few days to research the crap out of what to do next to make sure it lasts another 40 years. 😉
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:01 AM   #20
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
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Well my darling sons birthday party interfered with my painting get so now I have to wait a week for my next coat, darn it... but in the meantime I called the guy we get our plastics from at work for advice on repairing the cracks in the edge of the fridge door. The other day I used fix all on the back side of the door in an attempt to fix a couple of the cracks. It fixed nada....It wouldn't even set up it stayed sticky. Today I rolled that crap off and made a run down to Plexiclass to pick up the goods.
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:28 AM   #21
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
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Vic at Plexiclass gave me a tiny bit of his methylene chloride (also called Dichloromethane) I had used it for a job years ago and promptly forgot about it. It was cool to work with then, so I know it will be cool to work with now. It looks and has the consistency of water and works by a process called solvent welding, a solvent is applied which can temporarily dissolve the polymer at room temperature. When this occurs, the polymer chains are free to move in the liquid and can mingle with other similarly dissolved chains in the other component. Given sufficient time, the solvent will permeate through the polymer and out into the environment, so that the chains lose their mobility. This leaves a solid mass of entangled polymer chains which constitutes a solvent weld. This technique is commonly used for connecting PVC and ABS pipe, as in household plumbing. The "gluing" together of plastic (polycarbonate, polystyrene or ABS) models is also a solvent welding process.

Ya...I cut and pasted that last bit :-) simpler terms is it melts plastic and as it evaporates it all seals back together. It is a solid unit again in just a minute. Guess what else it melts, Krylon Fusion Plastic paint. Good thing I hadn't finished painting yet.

Before you work with the methylene chloride make sure your surface area is clean and clear of debris, use a syringe to run a bead along/in the cracks. I did't have one so I used a baby medicine dropper, but since I had access to the backside of the work I didn't care if the seams where a little rough. Quickly align your work the best you can and hold it still. You can let go in less than a minute. If you aren't happy with the bond you can reapply it again right away and give it another go. I had one flared outwards crack that bothered me so I forced into place by pressing it into where it was supposed to be using a bottle cap to keep my fingers safe.
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:34 AM   #22
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Next I worked on the others the same wayClick image for larger version

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Old 09-09-2014, 12:44 AM   #23
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
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After it had set up for a while I gave it a heavy sanding with a fine automotive paper to level out where it shows that I didn't hold it flush enough. In the first pic you can see where it melted the paint. Oops but hey at least there is no crack.

Now the one thing to remember is to check for reasons why the cracks started in the first place. Next week when I finally get to finish painting the door after this round finishes curing I will do a dry fit and find out if it was bunged up anywhere. I suspect with mine it may just be from age and the rough roads we take this baby on.
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:48 AM   #24
The Sign Lady
 
1969 23' Safari
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More Info on the types of ways to fix plastic

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic_welding
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Old 09-29-2014, 09:45 AM   #25
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Sorry for the delay in finishing of the fridge another airstream followed me home and is trying to bankrupt me, so I have been sidelined by a floor restoration on the middle baby that I will need to sell. I can honestly say I was actually embarrassed by having the three trailers in the driveway. I parked my new girl ( a 64 tradewind at a friends till I am done on the safari so I don't get sidetracked by playing with her)
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Old 09-30-2014, 08:50 PM   #26
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Love your posts!!

Just wanted to thank "thesignlady," for such informative posts! It's really helping me as we move along with our own restoration project. And your step-by steps using creativity and elbow grease to breath new life into some of this old stuff (the fridge) is truly inspiring.... I'm thinking I would have been very tempted to kick that sucker to the curb

GretaSeyr56
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Old 10-16-2014, 08:05 AM   #27
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I used a product called "G-Flex" two part epoxy with fiberglass matt worked very good for us, and has thickness to fill gaps and holes. See blog for photos.
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Old 10-16-2014, 10:47 AM   #28
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Nice info. My Dometic is pretty yellow inside too. Gonna try Krylon. It did wonders for our bathroom sink
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