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Old 07-24-2007, 08:22 AM   #15
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I guess I'm not clear why the frig has to be removed to fix. Isn't there an outside hatch to access the back of the frig ?
Other things to check ; the magnetic shut-off valve may be sticking or defective , thermocoupler may not be positioned properly over flame , tubes to thermocoupler and/or pilot may be cloged or loose . Also change the gas thermostat setting in front to a different number than usual . Good luck
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:53 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ticki2
I guess I'm not clear why the frig has to be removed to fix. Isn't there an outside hatch to access the back of the frig ?
Other things to check ; the magnetic shut-off valve may be sticking or defective , thermocoupler may not be positioned properly over flame , tubes to thermocoupler and/or pilot may be cloged or loose . Also change the gas thermostat setting in front to a different number than usual . Good luck
There is a hatch but it is not aligned with the burner assembly and the space is so tight you can't get at it. Now that I had it out once I know where the screw is that holds the burner in position and maybe I can get to it, maybe not. I am thinking about cutting a small 2nd access hole inside the trailer bulkhead as you enter the trailer. This would let me light the burner manually and better visually inspect the flame. And maybe get at the !@#$%^& screw. If I can get that screw out I can get the burner and thermocouple out. But, then, there is always getting it back in. The other back end components I may be able to get to through the access door a little easier.

I don't know anything about a "magnetic shut off". A problem in positioning the thermocouple is very possible. If the burner doesn't stay lit does that mean the thermocouple is not getting hot enough and has to be more in the flame? How far?. I will check out your other suggestions as well as call Dometic and AAA that does vintage fridge rebuilding in CA.

Everybody keep those suggestions and comments coming. They are helpful and very appreciated.
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Old 07-24-2007, 11:15 AM   #17
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I once paid an RV tech to fix the one in my Trade Wind while I was in Ft. Lauderdale. The burner was dirty. He apologized for charging me at all, but he had logged a service call. The flame can be too low.

Vaughan
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Old 07-24-2007, 12:14 PM   #18
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Marshall , the magnetic shut-off is the safety valve that shuts off the gas supply if there is no flame . The magnet is inside this valve. When you pull the knob in front at start up you are temporarily by-passing this device until the thermocoupler heats up . That is why it is not a good idea to to clip it open indefinately . The termocoupler should be well into the flame . If you have a service manual there is a pretty good explaination and some diagrams . If not , send your email and I will try to copy for you .
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:13 PM   #19
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new fridge time?

I tried the alligator clip and chaging the thermostat setting. No luck. I will check into the price of a new safety valve tomorrow. But I'm starting to think new fridge. Is putting a new one in just a matter of bolting it to the floor and hooking up the gas and electric lines? Any recommendations on what will fit in a 71 Tradewind? I fouind out this weekend any way the door is tweaked. Sour Grapes
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:58 PM   #20
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Here is a link to a replacement chart:
Dometic - Conversion Chart
You will most likely not find an exact size replacement. Another good reason to keep the original as long as you can.
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Old 07-24-2007, 10:23 PM   #21
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Thumbs down replacement fridge sizes

Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
You will most likely not find an exact size replacement. Another good reason to keep the original as long as you can.
Thanks, I didn't give that much thought. I checked out the new Dometics and Norcolds and they are either too big, which would require redoing the counter and cabinet above. or a about 6" too short. That kind of changes my perspective.

Today I blew out the burner, disconnected the new thermocouple from the safety valve and blew that out. No luck. Tomorrow I will check on finding a new safety valve. I should be able to get that out without pulling the fridge again.

Does anyone know if I can put dry ice in the freezer (to temporarily maintain cold) if 110 is not avalable will damage anything?
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Old 07-25-2007, 12:01 AM   #22
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So is THIS what the movie "refer madness" was all about?

You are really going to be the expert on these fridges by the time you are done.

Didn't you mention in a post at one time that someone would rebuild it or exhange it?

Barry
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Old 07-25-2007, 06:35 AM   #23
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Marshall , send a PM to RV_cool or go to his web site ,www.snydersrvrefrigeration.com , he specializes in rebuilding gas frig's . He can probably help with more guidance and parts . If you get R done , let us know how .
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Old 07-25-2007, 08:03 AM   #24
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The Refer Man?

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So is THIS what the movie "refer madness" was all about?

You are really going to be the expert on these fridges by the time you are done.

Didn't you mention in a post at one time that someone would rebuild it or exhange it?

Barry
That would be the 2nd time in my lifetime that handle would be apropos. Of course the 1st was from my mispent yoot, it's kind of hazy though.

You're reading my mind. I was going to call Snyder's today. I called a place in CA called AAA yesterday. He advised make sure the gas valve inside the fridge is completely screwed in. It didn't help.

There is no one around me that rebuilds the old units. I would have to ship it. That may be the way to go if I don't want to modify the cabinetry to fit a new fridge,
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Old 07-31-2007, 08:31 AM   #25
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Fridge Fix

After talking with someone at Dometic who does not talk to retail customers and then disconnected me, I finally got someone who was helpful. He told me Dometic sold all it's vintage parts to All Seasons in Elkhart Indiana 800 344-0673. He gave me some useful info I would like to pass on:

You can check the thermocouple is still doing it's job by taking a test meter cable of reading mllivolts and put one lead on the copper tube and one one the terminal end where it goes into the safety switch. It should read 27-29 millivolts.

Take the top off the safety valve where the thermocouple attaches and take out the magnetic valve. The current from the thermocouple activates a little magnet than opens the valve. Clean it up and if it still doesn't work try a little aluminum foil between the valve and thermocouple contacts. If it still doesn't work you can still buy a new magnet for $30 rather than a whole new safety valve. I'm waiting for the mail.

Also in Elkhart is another business who specializes in vintage appliance parts DTI 800 289 0919 who I did not contact.
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Old 07-31-2007, 04:39 PM   #26
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I hate to give my simple advice, but, I have had problems with the burner/pilot light not staying lit and it was just some dirt/carbon on the thermocouple which insulted it from the heat of the flame. Cleaned it off and fixed. Tools required: long small screwdriver, flashlight.
mel
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