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03-16-2012, 11:04 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Mustang
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 80
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How long should it take to start cooling?
I have just tried to get my 1963 Dometic 35B to cool. I wanted to leave it overnight, but I don't want to leave it unattended it's first time out. I got it to light and the flame looks good but the inside isn't even trying to get cold. I'm not even sure if it has an ammonia charge. How can I tell?
How long should I let it run before I give up?
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03-16-2012, 11:27 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1977 31' Excella 500
West Sacramento
, California
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 728
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The freezer will begin to cool in an hour our two. The fridge closer to 4 hours to get cold. I always light mine the night before the trip and it is good and cold the next morning for loading.Also, if you hear liquid trickling in the back of the fridge that is a good sign that you have ammonia charge.
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03-17-2012, 10:30 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
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Is the refer level? Have you tried it on electric? Turn the thermostat all the way up and down a few times and set it at 5 or higher. Does it have two thermostats? One for electric and one fir gas? Do you have the right one turned up?
I always fire it up the night before. But you should begin the feel the bottom plate in the freezer getting cold after a few hours. If you see yellow dust on the cooling unit in the back or smell ammonia it's shot.
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03-17-2012, 11:43 AM
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#4
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Moderator
Vintage Kin Owner
...
, ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,696
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It can take several hours at best before we get a hint of cooling. I usually fire ours up the day before we depart.
__________________
"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."
William C. Swinney
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03-17-2012, 11:46 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1978 31' Excella 500
Venice
, California
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,067
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You can jump start a properly working fridge with a bag of ice in each compartment. Helps speed up the process.
__________________
"Not all who are laundering are washed" say Bill & Heidi
'78 Excella 500,"The Silver Pullit". vacuum over hydraulic disc brakes, center bath, rear twin. '67 Travelall 1200 B 4X4 WBCCI 3737
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03-17-2012, 11:48 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2000 31' Land Yacht
Central
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,489
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I installed an indoor outdoor thermometer to keep tabs on mine.
Startup on gas late afternoon when I see temp coming down about 10 degrees I switch over to electric, by evening cold enough to put in food.
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03-17-2012, 12:50 PM
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#7
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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I am fairly sure that is a gas only fridge and a very small one at that. Light it and keep it on. If you plan to use it, you are going to need to keep it lit right? If it is not cold by over night it is not going to work. These old gas Dometic are obsolete and finding parts is very difficult to impossible. I have heard of the ice bag trick bringing them back from the dead, not sure how it does, but I have been told twice it works. I cannot confirm this as fact.
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03-17-2012, 01:36 PM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Mustang
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 80
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It's been about 3 hours and the freezer is the only thing getting cold. I think it may be dead. It is gas only and very small.
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03-17-2012, 03:06 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2000 31' Land Yacht
Central
, Florida
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,489
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On small units freezer is the source of cold for the refrig.
When you take it out, you can try one other thing, roll it around a couple of times, that is bottom up and back, have heard blockage can be moved so that the ammonia can move.
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03-17-2012, 03:18 PM
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#10
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 19,977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roothawg
It's been about 3 hours and the freezer is the only thing getting cold. I think it may be dead. It is gas only and very small.
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Don't condem 'til tomorrow morning, our 63 Safari always took 20+hrs to get cold.
Fridge fan will help circulate the air.
BTW...know what you want when you open the door, slow cold-warm fast.
Bob
ps....Great Looking little trailer!!!!
__________________
"You don't know where you've been until you leave, enjoy life" RLC
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03-17-2012, 06:59 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Mustang
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 80
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I left it on for 8 hours today and it stayed at a steady 50 degrees. The book says 35-50. We are on the tattered edge. It was 80ish here today. Not as cold as I would like, but........I was pondering throwing a small chunk of dry ice in, just to help get it rolling. My main concern is what will happen if it is 100+ like it normally is here in the summer.
bTW, Thanks Bob, we are proud of it. Should be done in the next 60 days, I hope.
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03-17-2012, 08:08 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roothawg
I have just tried to get my 1963 Dometic 35B to cool. I wanted to leave it overnight, but I don't want to leave it unattended it's first time out. I got it to light and the flame looks good but the inside isn't even trying to get cold. I'm not even sure if it has an ammonia charge. How can I tell?
How long should I let it run before I give up?
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It should start getting cold in a couple of hours.
If not, then the burner heat is inadequate.
The burner orifice must be cleaned every 2 years or so.
Other possible issues could be the reefer is not level and the LPG pressure is too low. That pressure should be between 11-13 inches of water column pressure, better yet, at least 12 inches.
Andy
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03-17-2012, 08:54 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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Another couple of things to check:
1. Is the burner clean? It is not uncommon for enough rust to fall on the top screen to block the flame from going to full heat. Very difficult to tell visually if it is the proper flame for good cooling. I would take compressed air and blow the burner out well.
2. In a similar vein, the propane regulator may not be delivering the full 11" of pressure needed for a proper flame. Again, very hard to tell if the flame size is correct by looking at it. So, either check the gas pressure, or, if the regulator is old, replace it with a new one. You probably need a new one as a matter of age anyway, unless it has been recently done. I am sure you can find, with a search, threads on regulator pressure checking.
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03-17-2012, 10:03 PM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Mustang
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 80
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I have a brand new regulator, but I am unsure if it is working correctly. It has issues of it's own. There is a whole other thread on that.
My reefer has the bunsun burner/Klixon type valve. I have the manual and have been trying to experiment with different things to improve the flame. It actually looks pretty decent, although don't have a manometer to check the water column pressure. Where would I even find one?
The reefer is level.
I really would like this to work if possible. I don't think a modern fridge would ever look right.
How do you clean the burner on this setup?
Thanks for all the help on this. I am out of my comfort zone. If anyone wants to talk about 35-37 Fords, I'm comfortable there.......
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03-18-2012, 05:45 AM
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#15
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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... be so very careful around that tongue. If it breaks, you will be done for sure. Did I mention to be careful? Do not ask me why I know.
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03-18-2012, 07:36 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1994 30' Excella
Mississauga
, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,234
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Reading through the posts reminds me of a few things.
If I remember correctly the orifice is a hole drilled through a ruby. Don't try to clean the ruby orifice with a needle. You will destroy it. Just soak it in alcohol(that's what I remember).
Also it wouldn't hurt to clean out the cchimney tube. I couldn't figure out how to get the guts of it out for cleaning so I blew compressed air through it and banged on the outside at the same time. A lot of rust came out. Wear goggles if you do this.
Al
__________________
Al and Jean
TAC ON-3
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03-18-2012, 09:57 AM
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#17
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Mustang
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 80
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Thanks. I will try that today.
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03-18-2012, 10:16 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
Southwestern
, Ohio
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roothawg
I have a brand new regulator, but I am unsure if it is working correctly. It has issues of it's own. There is a whole other thread on that.
My reefer has the bunsun burner/Klixon type valve. I have the manual and have been trying to experiment with different things to improve the flame. It actually looks pretty decent, although don't have a manometer to check the water column pressure. Where would I even find one?
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You can make your own manometer very easily. See RV U Tube Manometer
When I needed one I had the necessary materials laying around.
A manometer might also give you some useful information about your regulator questions.
Do remember, SAFETY FIRST when dealing with LP gas!
.
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03-18-2012, 11:10 AM
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#19
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Mustang
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 80
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This forum rules......
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03-21-2012, 07:51 PM
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#20
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Mustang
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 80
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OK, good news.
I cleaned all of the parts mentioned above, not much change. I had a late night vision, so I tried modifying the height of the flame. I got pretty aggressive with the adjustments and in 3 hours it went from 62 degrees to 33 degrees. I left it overnight and all day today. It stabilized at 32. It was only 65 here today. I am gonna wait until I have an 80 degree or higher day and try again. I think it's good though.
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