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03-22-2012, 02:24 AM
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#21
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roothawg
OK, good news.
I cleaned all of the parts mentioned above, not much change. I had a late night vision, so I tried modifying the height of the flame. I got pretty aggressive with the adjustments and in 3 hours it went from 62 degrees to 33 degrees. I left it overnight and all day today. It stabilized at 32. It was only 65 here today. I am gonna wait until I have an 80 degree or higher day and try again. I think it's good though.
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The burner flame, when correct, will have a "roar" to it.
Andy
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03-22-2012, 06:26 AM
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#22
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,278
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Excellant site for information and service/troubleshooting manuals for older Dometic units:
Dometic refrigerators - Download Dometic Manuals
__________________
MICHAEL
Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
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03-22-2012, 07:21 AM
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#23
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,919
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Depending on the actual model of your fridge...some have an internal regulator to drop the 12" of pressure down to 8", so ya kinda need to measure the pressure at the port provided on the burner.
They are pretty picky... I charted the temp based on pressure for my M50 and it REALLY wants 8" at the burner...there is not much visual difference of the flame between 7", 8" and 9" but the performance varies greatly. oh, it also has to be pretty dang level on the freezer shelf.
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03-22-2012, 08:19 AM
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#24
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4 Rivet Member
1992 29' Excella
Asheville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 306
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another possibility
In my case everything was working ok, but I was not getting enough air flow across the condenser at the top. After reading a few threads about a nifty devise using a small computer fan. I decided to create my own. I have three fans connected to 2 switches. This allows for operation in a High, Med, Low, type configuration. There are also two fans attached just below the exterior vent to help push the hot air out of the compartment (third switch). The power source for all three runs through a thermal switch that is attached to the hot tube just above the chimney stack. Only when the system is heating do any of the fans turn on. They will continue to run until it is cooled again. You can hear the fans when they start and stop but they are not bothersome. It just reminds me that the beer is nice and cold. I used lighted rocker switch in the cabinet above the refrigerator. The lights just let me know the power circuit is working.
Having the option to have lower power consumption (one fan) when the weather is cooler or stepping it up only when needed in the real hot weather, allows me to conserve precious battery life.
I am able to drop the temp in my freezer to about -5 when outside temp is 70 degrees
Search the refer. forum for fans and there are lots of ideas.
__________________
Jonathan Hettrick
'92 Excella 29'
'20 Ram 2500
AIR # 59179
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03-22-2012, 09:16 AM
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#25
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4 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
Penokee
, Kansas
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 339
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Good advice to this point..
If its making cold its working.. Never seen or read about one only 1/2 working.. (yet)
First its takes a lot of cold to cool an empty fridge. Second,,, make sure you are level..
It takes only 1 time to try and run a gas fired ice box out of level to wreck it.. Our SOB stick and staple 5th wheel,, the gal that showed it too us had it all plugged in to impress us when we came to look at it.. The trailer was parked on a side hill,, with the hitch high and leaning at a 15 degree angle. Well the fridge was toast when we got it home..
I rolled that ice box from one end of the yard to another.. Read for hours on the web about them and came to understand that ours was shot and a re-fab coil was $650...
Just take it step by step,, starting with a clean burner ,, and work your way up the list to find the problem.. Some where I read one needs to clean the thermostat control gas vale... A plug on the unit to take out and clean a needle and seat.. Found the data on my CD manual I got off Ebay from a fellow in Canada,, but cant copy and paste.. Let me know and I will hand peck the info too you..
Sodbust
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06-21-2013, 05:35 PM
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#26
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2 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Mustang
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 80
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Ok, here's an update. After the restoration of the trailer we took a 3,000 mile 2 week trip. The reefer acted crazy. Some days it would stay lit and cold, other days it would go out within a minute of lighting.
I really wanna keep this reefer, but it is starting to annoy me. It would go out while sitting still with no wind and sometimes going down the road. Is the thermocouple going south? The flame stays about the same height all the time, making me think it may not be dropping back when it should. But even so, wouldn't it just freeze everything if it never dropped back?
Can I even get parts, like the Klixon valve or the thermocouple?
Thanks
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