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Old 03-18-2012, 06:45 AM   #15
Restorations done right
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... be so very careful around that tongue. If it breaks, you will be done for sure. Did I mention to be careful? Do not ask me why I know.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:36 AM   #16
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Reading through the posts reminds me of a few things.
If I remember correctly the orifice is a hole drilled through a ruby. Don't try to clean the ruby orifice with a needle. You will destroy it. Just soak it in alcohol(that's what I remember).
Also it wouldn't hurt to clean out the cchimney tube. I couldn't figure out how to get the guts of it out for cleaning so I blew compressed air through it and banged on the outside at the same time. A lot of rust came out. Wear goggles if you do this.
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Old 03-18-2012, 10:57 AM   #17
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Thanks. I will try that today.
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Old 03-18-2012, 11:16 AM   #18
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I have a brand new regulator, but I am unsure if it is working correctly. It has issues of it's own. There is a whole other thread on that.

My reefer has the bunsun burner/Klixon type valve. I have the manual and have been trying to experiment with different things to improve the flame. It actually looks pretty decent, although don't have a manometer to check the water column pressure. Where would I even find one?
You can make your own manometer very easily. See RV U Tube Manometer
When I needed one I had the necessary materials laying around.

A manometer might also give you some useful information about your regulator questions.

Do remember, SAFETY FIRST when dealing with LP gas!
.
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:10 PM   #19
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This forum rules......
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:51 PM   #20
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OK, good news.

I cleaned all of the parts mentioned above, not much change. I had a late night vision, so I tried modifying the height of the flame. I got pretty aggressive with the adjustments and in 3 hours it went from 62 degrees to 33 degrees. I left it overnight and all day today. It stabilized at 32. It was only 65 here today. I am gonna wait until I have an 80 degree or higher day and try again. I think it's good though.
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:24 AM   #21
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OK, good news.

I cleaned all of the parts mentioned above, not much change. I had a late night vision, so I tried modifying the height of the flame. I got pretty aggressive with the adjustments and in 3 hours it went from 62 degrees to 33 degrees. I left it overnight and all day today. It stabilized at 32. It was only 65 here today. I am gonna wait until I have an 80 degree or higher day and try again. I think it's good though.
The burner flame, when correct, will have a "roar" to it.

Andy
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:26 AM   #22
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Excellant site for information and service/troubleshooting manuals for older Dometic units:
Dometic refrigerators - Download Dometic Manuals
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Old 03-22-2012, 08:21 AM   #23
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Depending on the actual model of your fridge...some have an internal regulator to drop the 12" of pressure down to 8", so ya kinda need to measure the pressure at the port provided on the burner.

They are pretty picky... I charted the temp based on pressure for my M50 and it REALLY wants 8" at the burner...there is not much visual difference of the flame between 7", 8" and 9" but the performance varies greatly. oh, it also has to be pretty dang level on the freezer shelf.
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:19 AM   #24
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another possibility

In my case everything was working ok, but I was not getting enough air flow across the condenser at the top. After reading a few threads about a nifty devise using a small computer fan. I decided to create my own. I have three fans connected to 2 switches. This allows for operation in a High, Med, Low, type configuration. There are also two fans attached just below the exterior vent to help push the hot air out of the compartment (third switch). The power source for all three runs through a thermal switch that is attached to the hot tube just above the chimney stack. Only when the system is heating do any of the fans turn on. They will continue to run until it is cooled again. You can hear the fans when they start and stop but they are not bothersome. It just reminds me that the beer is nice and cold. I used lighted rocker switch in the cabinet above the refrigerator. The lights just let me know the power circuit is working.

Having the option to have lower power consumption (one fan) when the weather is cooler or stepping it up only when needed in the real hot weather, allows me to conserve precious battery life.

I am able to drop the temp in my freezer to about -5 when outside temp is 70 degrees

Search the refer. forum for fans and there are lots of ideas.
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:16 AM   #25
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Good advice to this point..

If its making cold its working.. Never seen or read about one only 1/2 working.. (yet)

First its takes a lot of cold to cool an empty fridge. Second,,, make sure you are level..

It takes only 1 time to try and run a gas fired ice box out of level to wreck it.. Our SOB stick and staple 5th wheel,, the gal that showed it too us had it all plugged in to impress us when we came to look at it.. The trailer was parked on a side hill,, with the hitch high and leaning at a 15 degree angle. Well the fridge was toast when we got it home..

I rolled that ice box from one end of the yard to another.. Read for hours on the web about them and came to understand that ours was shot and a re-fab coil was $650...

Just take it step by step,, starting with a clean burner ,, and work your way up the list to find the problem.. Some where I read one needs to clean the thermostat control gas vale... A plug on the unit to take out and clean a needle and seat.. Found the data on my CD manual I got off Ebay from a fellow in Canada,, but cant copy and paste.. Let me know and I will hand peck the info too you..

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Old 06-21-2013, 06:35 PM   #26
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Ok, here's an update. After the restoration of the trailer we took a 3,000 mile 2 week trip. The reefer acted crazy. Some days it would stay lit and cold, other days it would go out within a minute of lighting.

I really wanna keep this reefer, but it is starting to annoy me. It would go out while sitting still with no wind and sometimes going down the road. Is the thermocouple going south? The flame stays about the same height all the time, making me think it may not be dropping back when it should. But even so, wouldn't it just freeze everything if it never dropped back?

Can I even get parts, like the Klixon valve or the thermocouple?

Thanks
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