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Old 02-10-2012, 06:19 PM   #21
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I would go with a good RV type fridge. The inverter idea is good, but what about a stop over on the way to your vacation. What if you have truck trouble and have wait to have the truck fixed? Will you ever go to a Nascar race and boon dock ? Even if you have a generator I would not want to run it 24/7.

Propane fridge will run for weeks on propane.Inverter will drain your battery in a few hours. How many batteries are you willing to add?

The RV fridges look better in general and fit tighter in the cabinets. Resale is better with a RV type fridge .

I have never had a problem with a RV fridge on two different used campers. Buy a new fridge and it comes with a warranty and then buy a extended warranty if you are worried about it.
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:02 PM   #22
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Is anyone familiar with a Dometic NDA1402 wide by side fridge. I am looking at getting it for my A/S. Only problem is if it will fit through the door. Dometic said it was 26" +/- 1/8". I asked which one, plus 1/8 will not fit and -1/8 will, they did not know. Not a lot of help considering they made it. Any ideas?
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:15 PM   #23
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Acording to this, it is even deeper (29 5/8") than you stated.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...7pJ8Nie7Otps6Q

The doors could be removed to get it in, but it still might not fit.
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:18 PM   #24
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The dimensions given at the RV Fridge Store (Dometic NDA1402 Sidewise Refrigerator - Factory New) show 26-1/16 inches thick. 29-5/8 might include the carboard box it comes in, for an overall shipping dimension.

You might squeeze some extra clearance by bringing it inside with the refrigerator doors off, as stated by azflycaster. In fact, even if you have enough clearance, I'd do that anyway, to minimize the chance of scratching up the doors in the process.
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:42 PM   #25
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Several posts have suggested adding more insulation to the exterior of a household refrigerator to improve it's efficiency. Be aware that many, but not all, smaller household refrigerators use the exterior case as the heat disposal method and must not be installed in an enclosed space (sides and top) and never insulated on the exterior. Only household refrigerators with coils on the back are suitable for replacement in an enclosed space.

Also, if you are looking for an efficient unit, look at he mandatory yellow energy "hang tag" on the one you are considering. If possible find one that has an energy use of 300 Kwh a year, or lower. Many are higher, much higher. Small does not mean energy efficient in many cases. I have seen dorm type little 20" cube units with hang tags showing higher energy use.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:06 AM   #26
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I'm sorry, I should have mentioned that the measurements I got from Dometic, 29" +/- 1/8" were without the doors.
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:19 PM   #27
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[QUOTE=SmokelessJoe;1105121]Musicmaster,

If you’ve spent any amount of time on these forums you’ll know that you need to consider the difference between opinion and experience when shifting through the advice.

Many of the opinions given here so far are based on bias and conventional thinking and many of the points offered –about weight, resale, power draw, el cheapo renos, etc. – are just conjecture or plain wrong.

Whether you can use a 110 v. fridge depends mostly on how you plan to use the trailer. If you’re going to be mainly in the boonies then 110v is probably not so workable. I think you already knew that when you posted.

I opted for a small, very light, 8.6 cubic foot LG household fridge for my remodel. I’ve used it for 5 years without a hint of a problem.

The idea was put into my head by Andy Thompson, the long time Airstream dealer at London, Ontario, when he opined that a household fridge like this is a perfect size for trailer living and could easily be powered by a 1500 watt inverter.

His said it was well built but lighter than an RV fridge and cost 75% less. It could be repaired anywhere by pretty much anyone – no tricky LP or 12v systems. You could actually throw it out and get a new one if it ever broke down.

The fridge normally operates on shore power but when I am going overland for any serious amount of time, or dry-camped overnight, it operates perfectly off of my battery pack. QUOTE]



Hello Musicmaster,

On a previous moho, I had unsatisfactory cooling with the rv frig and put in a WHIRLPOOL, 9.6 CU FT stainless from Lowes, $450
http://www.lowes.com/pd_267488-46-ET0MSRXTQ_4294789497+4294789094_109_?productId=107 6489&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_qty _sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl_96_4294789497%2B42 94789094_109_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0|| p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=9.6

Had to trim less than 1/2 inch from oak cabinet edge. Monitored its power consumption with a "Kill-a-watt" tool and never saw start-up power draw of more than 100 watts. Within 5-10 seconds it settled down to 30-45 watts. Forget the amp draw but it was so miniscule, I knew there was no worry of using it while on road and had plenty of battery storage for extended boondocking, if ever needed. Two good batteries in an AS should give plenty of run time.

One of the electrical wizards here could do the calculation watts/volts/amps to confirm the small amp draw.

I say put it in use it as you want. The first sign of trouble with my current Dometic in the AS...and its gone in favor of the Whirlpool. The stainless was instore and not online...at least locally.

Randy
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Old 04-18-2012, 12:32 PM   #28
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Thanks for the extra info, I'll check it out.
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