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Old 08-04-2009, 10:11 AM   #1
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Help with 12V on Dometic RM 2410

Can someone please tell me where to hook up my 12V power on a Dometic RM2410. The model I have runs on 120VAC or propane, but for some reason it requires 12VDC power to run on propane. Help please as I am going camping this weekend and will not have hookups. I have included a picture of the back of my unit in the hopes that someone can tell me where to connect my 12V power (coiled wires on the left side of the picture).
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:28 PM   #2
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Check this out Todd. I think it may have the wiring setup for your refer.

http://gasrefrigeration.net/dom_techdata/2552.pdf

Rich
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Old 08-04-2009, 02:25 PM   #3
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Are you saying that ref. has never had 12 volts or could it just be the fuse is blown.

The connection terminals should be under that white cover in the picture. Remove it and you should see both the 120 and 12 terminals. If wired check the 12 volt side for power. If no power check the fuses. If power you may have a bad control board.

If you have power to the board put the ref. on gas and try lighting it with a match, while someone hold the push button in, after you have removed the sheet metal cover over the burner. If it lights and stays on once the button is released you have a good control board but the igniter is most likely the problem.

If you have not used it on gas for some time you may want to remove the burner tube and check for spiders. They will stop everything.
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Old 08-04-2009, 04:43 PM   #4
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Here's the situation. It does not have 12V hooked up to it right now. When plugged in to AC and switched over to "gas" mode I can get the pilot to light and stay lit. However, once the AC is unplugged, the pilot goes out. Also, w/o AC plugged in, the pilot will not light while in gas mode. I'm guessing that the 12VDC is some sort of safety mechanism with the piezo ignition since this isn't a 3-way unit. All insight greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-04-2009, 06:38 PM   #5
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That sound strange that the ref. would require 120 volts to operate on gas.

Where are you disconnecting the 120 volts? At the ref. or shore power?

If at the shore power it sounds like you have the converter putting out 12 volts and supplying the ref. and when you disconnect it you don't have a battery connected.
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:32 PM   #6
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Some Dometics need 12 volt DC for them to work. On my 69 I just found a dc outlet whitch wasn't far from the fridge and connected to it.(fused) The dc outlet had both the neg and positive(the kind that looks like a cigarette lighter. Like yours my 69 didn't have dc hooked to trhe fridge.
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:07 AM   #7
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Here's a picture with that white cover removed. Four wires attached to this plastic junction (for lack of a better expression). Didn't have time to hit is with a volt meter this morning, but I cannot figure out what this does. It is not hooked to any sort of switch - it just sits atop a pin/post.
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:52 AM   #8
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My Dometic RM2609 requires 12 volts to operate on either gas or 120 VAC. The circuit board needs to have 12 volts DC to operate and without the circuit board, nothing works. Late last year I replaced the temperamental original circuit board with a Dino board and that made a world of difference.

Sounds like yours works on 120 VAC but not on gas without a 12 DC source.

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Old 08-06-2009, 10:57 AM   #9
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You need to find out if you have 12 VDC at that block. I can tell you first hand that the RM 2410 will not work on gas without it.

In case you don't have the manual. http://gasrefrigeration.net/dom_techdata/2552.pdf
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:56 PM   #10
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Can someone with an RM2410 post a picture of the back of their unit with electrical connections shown. I feel like mine might be missing something.
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Old 08-06-2009, 03:12 PM   #11
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Can someone with an RM2410 post a picture of the back of their unit with electrical connections shown. I feel like mine might be missing something.
Sorry I misspoke. The trouble with two trailers is you get the parts mixed up. I was speaking of the RM 2510. The RM 2410 is a two way (LP and 120 VAC) and does not use 12vdc. Here is a pic of the back of mine.
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Old 08-06-2009, 03:19 PM   #12
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Looks like you do not have to have 12 volts to operate on gas only. Look at page 13 of the manual and do a thermocouple test. That series of ref. require 12 volts when operating on 12 volts as a source for the heater, a 3 way system.

The burner should light as long as you hols the safety switch in. If it goes out as soon as you release the safety switch the thermocouple is bad. This is a common problem that is why I suggest this test first.

Now having said that if the flame goes out as soon as you release the safety switch it could also be the safety switch but you will not know that until you replace the thermocouple and retest. The thermocouple is the cheapr part to replace and the more likely to fail.
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Old 08-06-2009, 04:13 PM   #13
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Silverleeper,

Two questions:

1) The wires with the wire nuts.... where do those go?

2) Any chance of a photo with that black cover removed?
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Old 08-06-2009, 04:58 PM   #14
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Silverleeper,

Two questions:

1) The wires with the wire nuts.... where do those go?

2) Any chance of a photo with that black cover removed?
The wire with the wire nuts is hard wired 120VAC.

With cover off.
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