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Old 09-12-2017, 06:33 PM   #15
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Thanks fellows. Just finished checking the resistance on the gas solenoid, was just about what Dometic said it should be. So cleaned the leads and reconnected. Ran the unit on LP (no shore power) for 5 hours, no issues. Then plugged in shore power...the unit switched over and is running now. Think I'll just let it run a couple of days and see what it does.

And will keep that thermister in mind......would be a beast to push through the rear of the cabinet as it exits in a place you cannot see or reach without pulling the fridge out of the wall.
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:51 PM   #16
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Replace the thermister with this, if necessary. No need to pull the wire. Works well, allows for fine tuning adjustment.

http://www.snip-the-tip.com/cgi-bin/articca.cgi
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Old 09-26-2017, 04:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Replace the thermister with this, if necessary. No need to pull the wire. Works well, allows for fine tuning adjustment.

http://www.snip-the-tip.com/cgi-bin/articca.cgi

Well, the saga continues. Someone had suggested the converter might be sending a dirty signal to the fridge causing the E1 error, so I bypassed the converter by plugging the fridge into an extension cord plugged directly into an outlet...still got E1, so converter apparently not the cause.

Replaced the thermister with the snip-the-tip unit this morning, was hopeful the thermister was the cause. Threw E1 code within 12 hours, so thermister is not the culprit.

Running out of ideas, Dometic was really not offering much guidance after I explained what I have done so far.

Any additional suggestions?
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Old 09-26-2017, 04:32 PM   #18
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You may have tried this but google your issue and see if a non airstream owner had a similar issue
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Old 09-27-2017, 04:58 AM   #19
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Quote:
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You may have tried this but google your issue and see if a non airstream owner had a similar issue

Thanks, I have done that and most results seem to key on the thermister.
Biggest problem is that the error is intermittent. Kinda wish the darn thing would just break, then we could identify the cause. Thanks for your suggestion.
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Old 09-30-2017, 08:43 AM   #20
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I know you must be frustrated by now, having checked so many things. A couple more suggestions...

The fridge control board runs on 12vdc. It has to have 12vdc for the fridge to work at all. Even on shore power, 120vac, the fridge still needs 12vdc to operate. This means the 12vdc supply is a common requirement for all the modes of operation. If there were a problem with the 12vdc, the fridge could fail in ether propane or shore power modes.
The 12vdc comes in via connections in the outside access panel. I suggest you disconnect, clean and reconnect those connections. There is a terminal strip with screws that clamp the wires to make connection.

Then the fridge runs, that compartment gets warm. A clue could be that during the long delay as the compartment warms up the connections could be affected.

There is a condensation drain from the pan under the row of fins in the fresh food section. The drain is a 1/2" tube going down from the tray. From the outside access compartment, you can see it going straight down the middle and out to the edge of the access compartment door. The water is supposed to drip out the door. On my 2007 Safari, the original plastic tube became brittle, and disconnected at the top. After a delay, condensation could drip down on various control components, possibly causing a problem. You might check the condition of that drain tube. You can pour water in the tray and see if it comes out.

It is good to suspect the converter, especially if it is an upgraded modern smart converter that includes the desulfation stage of high frequency pulses. Depending on the converter brand, these pulses could begin after a long delay for the house batteries to be finally charged all the way up.

Or as someone else suggested, the converter could be supplying a noisy 12dvc that could cause trouble. It also has a long delay as it heats up before it misbehaves. An experiment here would be to disconnect shore power, set your battery disconnect to "use" and run on batteries. Either run with propane, or use your extension cord to provide power to the 120vac plug that is in the outside compartment.

If you have a spare battery available, disconnect the 12vdc wires from the terminal strip, make some extension wires, and connect them to the battery. It can sit on the ground below the outside fridge compartment. Again, run on either propane or on 120vac with your extension cord.

Another thought, and this has helped me, repeat previous experiments to see if your conclusions are the same. I have had situations where I missed a clue along the way. Repeating the experiments with the experience gained the first time can be helpful.

Think in terms of things that can happen after a delay, rather a totally random intermittent "cosmic ray" event. Something is surely causing the problem, and you will eventually sort it out.

Good luck!
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Old 10-01-2017, 06:21 AM   #21
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Brad: some great suggestions to diagnose. I really appreciate them and will follow up. BTW, my drain tube is also falling apart. I have "splinted" it at one place. I plan on replacing it with something more substantial if the fridge needs to be removed. But no indication of a condensation issue from the hose.

Something new since I replaced the thermister. The fridge works fine on shore power and even if it throws the E1 code it continues to keep the cabinet cold. However, if I disconnect the shore power while the E1 code is displayed, it does not switch over to propane. If I then turn the unit off and then back on, it immediately begins running on propane.

This makes me wonder if while on shore power when the temp in the cabinet rises to the point that it calls for more cooling, does the unit perform a "self test" for both AC and propane systems? If so, could the system be failing that test on the propane side thus causing the E1 error code?

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Old 10-02-2017, 05:42 AM   #22
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Tom, I found one post where the the E1 error was fixed by replacing the igniter electrode.
The premise was that the system checks for the igniter electrode to be clear of spiderwebs or debris by looking for an open circuit, that is no electrical leakage to ground. (I have not been able to confirm this, but it makes sense) If the ceramic electrode insulator has a hairline crack, that expands and contracts with temperature, it can fail the test, and store the E1 code.
If there has been dust, lint, spiderweb in the area of the igniter electrode, once the flame starts, the debris will be burned. That could leave some traces of carbon, which is conductive, and could perhaps get concentrated in a hairline crack.
It might be worth removing and cleaning/checking/replacing the igniter electrode. My experience with engine spark plugs is that I could not determine by visual inspection of the ceramic insulator that it was bad.

It makes sense that the control board would check as a background task the L.P. systems even when running on shore power.

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Old 10-03-2017, 05:13 AM   #23
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Brad: Thanks for that information, another lead to follow which might resolve this mystery. Will keep you posted on what I find. Been quite an education so far.
Tom
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