Getting a New RM2820

[NashBuff]

The original Dometic fridge in our 1985 Excella has finally gone bad. So I am looking to get a new RM2820 to replace it. I am thinking about using PPL out of Houston for two reasons; 1. Price 2.They take AmEx so I get double the warranty.
Any thoughts on PPL?
Any hints on taking out the old and the install?

As always, Thanks, Kevin

[68 TWind]

I have purchased lots of stuff from PPL. Great folks to deal with on the phone and the best prices I can find. I'm in Mississippi and delivery is usually in only a couple of days. I am going to order a new Dometic from my 68 Trade Wind from them in the next couple of weeks.

[NashBuff]

Thanks great to know about PPL.

[vswingfield]

I recently bought a SeaLand 510H toilet from PPL. I am very pleased! Fast delivery here to Arkansas too. I will not hesitate to buy from them in the future.

[NashBuff]

I put in the new fridge this weekend. Is there any value in the old fridge? Or I will just put it out for the trash.

[Mexray]

I too have had good luck with stuff from PPL in Texas, shipped out here to Northern Calif - good outfit to deal with...

In regard to your old unit, you might post a small ad on Craig's List for a few bucks (if your refer is still in good shape), as there are replacement cooling units available to make them work properly again...

...Or, if there is a RV refer repair shop near you, you might give them a call to see what your old unit is worth to them - I'd think these 'cores' have value to these rebuild shops...

Our old original 78 is still working like gangbusters in our AS, and cools like crazy - can't believe how some of the old stuff just keeps on running! The refer box has changed over the years, as have the controls, but the basic closed circuit cooling system has remained pretty much the same - I guess you just can't get around a really good design! To bad some of the other stuff isn't designed with the same long-lived materials (and design) as the refers...

We bought a new Class C MoHo in 77 when our kids were little - we used the heck out of it over the years, with several things finally 'falling off' or failing - but I took out the refer when we sold the MoHo for scrap, and still fire it up for temp use after all these years...

Ray

[NashBuff]

PPL was excellent.

I was a little disappointed in Dometic. No screws or hardware were provided, the electric hook-up is pretty flimsy, the metal cover in the back is very sharp and I cut my hand hooking up the gas and I only received half a strip of “fingers” in the door. The fingers from the old fridge fit though. Fridge cools well.

I had to make the opening slightly wider and I was blown away by the solid oak used in the Airstream.

[Diesel Phil]

Hi, We need to replace our rm3807,watching for sales.
Would you please describe the removal process ? Looking thru the outside hatch, I can't tell how it is held in place. Thanks, Phil

[texascanuk]

I installed, or am installing the 2820 in my 1991 34' excella and have a question about the routing of the condensation drain tube from the fridge. In the floor of the cutout where the fridge slides in there is an expanded steel grating with a hole below it to the space under the refrigerator. Looking down into the storage space under the refrigerator cutout there is another hole further toward the center of the trailer that probably goes down into the watertank area below the frame. So, Am I supposed to route the condensation drain tube down through that hole and let the water drip down there whenever it needs to? Seems like I'm asking for more corrosion if I do that?

Thanks

[TomW]

Originally Posted by NashBuff

I put in the new fridge this weekend. Is there any value in the old fridge? Or I will just put it out for the trash.

Kevin,

In what way did your old fridge go bad? Smell of ammonia? I might want the old fridge (I would drive up & get it) if I thought it was something that would work for another task I've got in mind.

Tom

[texascanuk]

I just removed mine last week. If you go to the outside of the RV to the door to access the back of the refrigerator there will be 4 main things to disconnect. 1) 110V power cord plugs into a receptacle somewhere (mine was on the wall above the access door). 2) LP gas line needs to be disconnected. Use two wrenches, one to turn the fitting, the other to hold the main body or things will start to bend. 3) 12v power/groung wires attach to a block, unscrew the hold down screws and pull out the wires, cover the live one with tape or a cap to it won't ground out. 4) 2 screws held down the feet of the fridge to the floor.

Now go INSIDE and open the refrigerator doors, there were screws around the perimeter of the flange that held the front in place. There may be 2 screws on the bottom under the lip that screw inwards and down too (mine didn't have those).

After everything is out, a fair amount of wiggling and pulling will free up the unit and it'll pull out. To support it while pulling it out I set up a floor jack with a piece of plywood on top of it that was cut to the width of the hallway. This held the fridge while we got a good grip on it. If you have 2 men you should be able to lift it up and over the dinnette that juts out past the wall, and the oven door. I also took all the doors, cupboards out of the kitchen in case something happened that would damage them.

This is kinda general, but gets the idea across. It's pretty easy, the hard part is the muscle!!

[texascanuk]

Originally Posted by NashBuff

PPL was excellent.

I had to make the opening slightly wider and I was blown away by the solid oak used in the Airstream.

How did you get the original oak inserts into the new doors? Or for that matter, How did you extract them from the old doors without destroying the doors?

[TomW]

Originally Posted by texascanuk

... So, [where] am I supposed to route the condensation drain tube ... Seems like I'm asking for more corrosion...

I do not know the approved answer to your question because my unit does not have a drain tube. But, a refrigerator will drain so little condensate that wherever the tube ends up I'm hard-pressed to envision a corrosion problem.

FWIW, there was a post several years ago by a member complaining of a warm refrigerator. Member lewster pointed out that there is a (IIRC) a one-way valve in the drain tube that keeps outside air from entering.

I may have dreamed that last statement, but on the outside chance I did not, keep an eye out for something attached to the tube, and make sure it stays there.

Tom