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Old 07-29-2010, 09:55 PM   #15
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Do you have something that looks like an inclined plane symbol on the right-hand side of the controller panel on the front of the fridge? It should be to the right of the "check" LED. If there isn't, someone may have put a control panel from a rm2812 on your unit (that one has a knob inside for temp. control). Or it may simply have the legend "AUTOMATIC REFRIGERATOR TEMPERATURE CONTROL". That's a later revision of the control and they really do (sort-of) work on the temperature being controlled by a factory preset temperature setting.



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Old 07-29-2010, 10:34 PM   #16
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Yes, it says"AUTOMATIC REFRIGERATOR TEMPERATURE CONTROL" and there are no knobs, inclined planes, digital displays, abacus, sun dials, or anything else that I can tell to change the temp setting. I will go on the assumption that automatic control means automatic and I hope it works pretty well, sort of , like you say! Thanks!

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Old 07-31-2010, 02:27 AM   #17
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Now the freezer door does not want to open. I feel dumb, but I don't know what to do with it. Has anyone had this happen or know what to do? It was working fine until a couple of days ago. It is not on presently and the fridge door opens.
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Old 08-02-2010, 03:06 PM   #18
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I figured I'd toss my problem into this thread. We took our '67 Overlander out for the first time this weekend and discovered that the OE Dometic fridge won't cool. Wait, let me back up a bit. When we went to pick it up from the PO, he had everything plugged in and working. The only problem with the fridge was that the gasket was bad and the door was a bit wonky. I replaced the gasket and made new hinges. Now the door seals perfectly.

However... when we got to the campsite, we plugged into the power, turned on the A/C and then tried to start the fridge. I followed the directions precisely and after waiting about 30 minutes, noticed that it wasn't cooling at all. So I fiddle with the nobs, etc. and after about 15 minutes my wife says that she flipped the switch to ON and wondered why I hadn't done that. I swore I'd left it in the ON position, but oh well. So we wait another 30 minutes and open the freezer door and its obviously working. Its pretty darned cold. So we're happy. I go back in an hour later to get a drink out of the freezer and its warm in there again. *sigh*

So I give up with that. I decide to try out the propane option. I follow the directions, get the little pilot light lit and knowing that the propane option can take a while, we wait about 3 hours and nothing. Not cold in the slightest. So we go to bed and about 8 hours later I check it again. The pilot light is still lit but its still not cold inside.

What am I missing here? I read in a previous post that weak batteries could be the problem for the electric option. I know my batteries are weak and need to be replaced. In fact, I noticed that when the air is on, one light is on and I try to turn on the radio, no sound issues forth. However, if I turn off the light, I get sound, but the radio display dims. I assume this is battery power issue. Could this be the fridge issue as well? I turned off all of the lights and turned the air down to low during my last electrical fridge test and it didn't seem to matter.

So while weak batteries could be the fridge culprit, could that be the propane problem? I didn't think using propane used electricity, but I could be wrong.... Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:39 AM   #19
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We found out that the fridge needs 12 V power to for the controller when on propane. If your battery isn't supplying enough for that, the fridge won't cool.
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Old 08-03-2010, 10:29 AM   #20
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Ours is the freezer on top, which freezes real well- then the cold from the freezer radiates downward in to the refrigerator compartment. There is no fan. There is no light bulb to wonder about (ha!) just cool temps down below. There IS a radiator fixture at the top back that will ice over on different times that depends on the humidity. But we are more than happy at being able to have -as fulltimers- a propane amonia driver fridge!
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:12 AM   #21
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I just thought I would throw in that our '99 Safari's Dometic has a thermistor that is attached to one of the cooling coils in the fridge. To adjust the temp we move it up for a warmer temp and slide it down for a cooler temp. I usually keep the fridge on the colder side to account for door openings, especially in warmer weather, as it doesn't recover the door opening cooling loss as quickly as a compressor style fridge. Currently we are having problems when switching from elec. to gas, or even sometimes when trying to start it on gas. I quite often have to cycle it several times to get it to start. I am suspecting a bad board. The board in it is a replacement that is several years old. It does work well on electric though. Maybe it just needs a good cleaning. I would clean it myself, but I am a bit leery in this case due to the fact that it has all of the safety recalled upgrades on it and I don't want to foul things up.
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Old 08-18-2010, 04:32 AM   #22
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Jhenschen If your A/S has the original fridge then weak or low batteries has nothing to do with the fridge. The older fridges have no circuit board that needs 12VDC to operate. I am assuming that on your fridge to change from 110VAC to propane you manually turn a knob and light a pilot light - is that correct? It sounds to me like you have a problem with the cooling unit that is blocked and not allowing the ammonia chloride solution to flow properly. If you get no cooling on either propane or 110VAC (verify that fridge is receiving 110VAC first). Check that the venting chimney is not obstructed. By using a small mirror and a flashlight you can look up the back of the fridge to make sure the way is clear. These fridges need proper airflow from the bottom of the fridge all the way to the roof of your A/S. Check the vent on the roof of your A/S for obstuctions as well. If all is clear and you have 110VAC and a pilot light that stays lit and no cooling in the fridge I suspect the fridge has died. Check the rear of the fridge area for signs of an ammonia leak. There would be yellowish green stains or powder around the area and you would smell ammonia if the cooling unit had leaked. The fridge has to be level to operate properly also. From waht you describe it sounds more like a blockage in the cooloing unit which can happen to a 43 year old fridge. It will be expensive to replace but don't use a house fridge instead, these cheap fridges are not designed to travel down the open road and will not last long. If you contact a RV service center they may have a contact to recondition your cooling unit for a lot less than a new fridge. However the warranty on a reconditioned cooling unit does not cover the labour to pull the fridge and remove the cooling unit just covers the part.
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Old 08-18-2010, 04:46 AM   #23
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Soyboy have you checked your propane burner for obstructions. Sometimes small flakes of rust will land on the burner and give you problems with ignition. If your fridge works on 110VAC and will eventually lights on propane the problem is with getting the flame to ignite not with the circuit board. In the back of the fridge on the right hand side you will see an aluminum tube with a small inspection cover. If you open this cover you can access the burner. Check here for obstructions. Have someone start the fridge on propane while you observe what happens. Once the fridge turns on you should here a faint hum from the circuit board and then a louder clunk from the gas valve opening followed by a series of clicks as the ignitor tries to light the propane. The circuit board should try to do this three times before locking out. If you turn off the fridge and wait a couple of minutes and try again. If the fridge goes through all these steps the board is fine but you have a problem getting the gas to ignite. Spiders will also nest in the small tube along the bottom the fridge that the gas and air mixture travels through to get from the gas valve to the burner. Try blowing this area clear with compressed air.
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:35 PM   #24
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I am having hte same problem with my 2007 19' Bambi. I think I ran it on gas when it was un-level and now it will only run on electric. It just clicks and clicks when I turn it to gas.
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:54 PM   #25
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Amy anddavid Your problem is not from operating unlevel. It aproblem was created from being unlevel then it would not get cold on electric.
1) Are you sure you have gas does the stove,furnace and water heater work on gas?
2) Can you hear the loud clunk from the gas valve opening?
3) Have you checked the burner tube for obstructions like rust flakes?
4) Check the burner tube for spider nests etc.
5) Try to light the fridge while observing the burner. Can you see the spark?
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:56 PM   #26
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chris got it covered :-)

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