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05-28-2013, 09:03 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1970 27' Overlander
Belmont
, California
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
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Fridge recommendation
Previous owner fitted a domestic fridge and I'd like to get back to something that can run on DC and/or propane. I've read through many threads but I'm still not sure what size of modern fridge is easiest to kludge into the existing space.
Can anyone post pics / recommend which model I should go for to get something going with the least amount of modification to the cabinetry in my 1970 overlander?
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05-28-2013, 09:47 PM
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#2
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Site Team
1963 26' Overlander
Hollis
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,647
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You'll need to post dimensions to get an answer. Also dometic or domestic?
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05-28-2013, 10:03 PM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1970 27' Overlander
Belmont
, California
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
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Yes, a regular domestic 120v fridge, actually a Frigidaire which is 21 1/2 wide and 33 high. As you can see from the photo it's just standing on a couple of blocks of wood. The actual opening appears to be 21 1/2 wide and 40 1/2 high.
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05-28-2013, 10:10 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usuallyalex
Yes, a regular domestic 120v fridge, actually a Frigidaire which is 21 1/2 wide and 33 high. As you can see from the photo it's just standing on a couple of blocks of wood. The actual opening appears to be 21 1/2 wide and 40 1/2 high.
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I'm guessing that the 'Domestic'(a use) and 'Dometic' (a vendor) words are going to be a a hiccup here.
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05-28-2013, 10:51 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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Dometic 2510 I believe will fit into your space. It is a 5 cu ft one and uses old conventional two flame size technology so it uses no electric power after the flame is initially lit, and only a tiny amount to operate the ignitor initially. So, no circuit boards to replace, no power draw to operate on propane.
It is not shown on the Dometic web site though. However, if you Google it several sources to buy it will come up.
I like mine in my Argosy very much, this is the third season I have had it.
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05-28-2013, 11:02 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
1970 27' Overlander
Belmont
, California
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
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Nice - from the specs it does seem like the Dometic 2510 will fit in the space perfectly. I was wondering what the difference is between two-way and three-way in terms of practical usage? I've not had much experience here so I was wondering if the challenge was to keep things cold during those monster 10 hour drives?
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05-29-2013, 03:26 AM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
1964 26' Overlander
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Anna
, Illinois
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,705
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Fridge recommendation
Greetings usuallyalex!
Quote:
Originally Posted by usuallyalex
Nice - from the specs it does seem like the Dometic 2510 will fit in the space perfectly. I was wondering what the difference is between two-way and three-way in terms of practical usage? I've not had much experience here so I was wondering if the challenge was to keep things cold during those monster 10 hour drives?
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I have been RVing for several decades and am still shocked that Airstream doesn't at least offer the option of a 3-Way RV Refrigerator in their products. When I purchased my '64 Overlander in 1995, the first upgrade was to replace the previous owner's compressor-type replacement refrigerator with a 3-Way Dometic. I have no regrets . . . the circuit board had to be replaced with a Dinosaur Board, but that was a small price for the convenience and peace of mind while traveling for extended periods of time. This is my third 3-Way Dometic RV refrigerator and I am certain that it won't be my last (when the original Dometic in the Minuet gives up, its replacement will be a 3-Way Dometic). Several things that I have learned about 3-Way Refrigerators over the years (my first was in my 1980 Nomad that was purchased new in 1980): - It is critical to pre-cool the refrigerator on either 120-Volt AC or propane before switching to 12-Volt DC.
- Use wire at least two gauges heavier than recommended when creating a dedicated 12-Volt DC circuit for the refrigerator.
- It is advisable to have at least two Group 27 house batteries if there is a frequent need to travel more than five to six hours on 12-Volt DC.
- Running a heavier than normal charge wire from the tow vehicle's underhood junction box is also a plus (I found that the 7-pin round connector designed for semi-trailer use provided terminals that would accept heavier wires than the typical RV blade-type connectors.
I am a fan of the 3-Way RV refrigerator as I dislike traveling with the propane valves open.
Good luck with your investigation!
Kevin
P.S.: The Dometic 3-Way Refrigerator that I have in my Overlander is the predecessor to the Americana RM2354. Like most retrofits to a Vintage Airstream, my cabinet did require some modification as this refrigerator was about 3-inches taller than the original 2-Way Dometic.
__________________
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC #7864
AIR #827
1964 Overlander International
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
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05-29-2013, 06:11 AM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
2013 20' Flying Cloud
Cream Ridge
, New Jersey
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 124
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I have always had three way refrigerators in our trailers and even in our slide in camper. My new A$ is the first with only a two way and I must say I'm disappointed. We have always pre cooled the fridge before a trip and used 12V on the road. I have always switched to propane whenever we stopped to rest and turned the engine off then switched back when we hit the road again. Just something else you have to remember. Hopefully running on propane down the road will be alright although I don't think it's a good idea. It's a brand new trailer and I have no intentions of replacing the fridge without trying it out for a few trips.
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05-29-2013, 10:32 AM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
1970 27' Overlander
Belmont
, California
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
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Yes, at 29-3/4 x 20-1/2 x 21-3/8 the RM2354 would be an inch thinner and 11 inches shorter than the space I have but that would be easy to trim. I'm not convinced I need much fridge space - milk for a cup of tea and a cold beer for later is a good start
I'm new to this so I'm unclear as to the propane vs DC when driving question but I want to use the trailer this summer so I'm trying not to take too much out. I think I could run a dedicated circuit round from the fusebox through the back the bathroom via the rear access and then through the back of the cabinets on the streetside wall.
Worst case I may leave the fridge until next season and use an icebox!
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05-29-2013, 01:52 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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They use to make small compressor based fridges that would run on 12V and not suck the power like running the heater on a Dometic with 12V. This would let you run while towing and while hooked to shore power. It would not be good for boondocking.
I would go with the Dometic if it were me.
Perry
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05-29-2013, 02:02 PM
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#11
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Moderator
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Alamo Heights
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114
They use to make small compressor based fridges that would run on 12V and not suck the power like running the heater on a Dometic with 12V. This would let you run while towing and while hooked to shore power. It would not be good for boondocking.
I would go with the Dometic if it were me.
Perry
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Dometic, Norcold, NovaKool and others make 12v Danfoss-compressor refrigerators. It's a more efficient use of the 12v power than the absorption fridges, but they are ALWAYS dependent upon electricity so you have to plan for that.
__________________
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Zero Gravitas — 2017 Flying Cloud 26U | WBCCI# 15566
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06-22-2013, 02:15 PM
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#12
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2 Rivet Member
1970 27' Overlander
Belmont
, California
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 49
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Well I ordered the 2510 and it seems to fit..
Now just the gas pipe to move, and a couple of questions if anyone can help..
1. The installation guide specifies a "sealing strip" along the bottom but not what it should be made of. Any suggestions?
2. The controls require 12v -- any suggestions where the best place to pick this up from?
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