First, you should do a continuity test on the element to see if it is good. If no continuity, replace it, as this is the problem.
If the element tests OK, then it might be a control board problem. A quick test for this is to remove the leads for the element at the board, make a pigtail with a 120VAC extension cord and 1/4" male connectors on the other end, and plug the element directly into a 120VAC outlet. Give it a couple of hours, and you should feel heat at the chimney burner section. If it works with the direct application of 120VAC, you need a new control board.
I just returned to my '74 Ambassador after 1 week of travel to find my refer (Royal Dometic) dead - I left it working perfectly on AC and came back to a bunch of stinky food last night. I do not know if it works on gas as I have never run it other than on AC, nor do I intend to ever use it with gas - I know many people feel confined to "the grid" with AC only, but I find it easier to come across AC then propane.
Are there any specific troubleshooting steps other than checking the resistance of the heating element? I did not smell any ammonia either.
Any help would be appreciated in getting it running again (on AC) but I think I may just bite the bullet and replace with a new AC model,
I just returned to my '74 Ambassador after 1 week of travel to find my refer (Royal Dometic) dead - I left it working perfectly on AC and came back to a bunch of stinky food last night. I do not know if it works on gas as I have never run it other than on AC, nor do I intend to ever use it with gas - I know many people feel confined to "the grid" with AC only, but I find it easier to come across AC then propane.
Are there any specific troubleshooting steps other than checking the resistance of the heating element? I did not smell any ammonia either.
Any help would be appreciated in getting it running again (on AC) but I think I may just bite the bullet and replace with a new AC model,
Thanks, Jay
Jay,
If you test the continuity (and resistance) of the element and it is OK, then you have to look at the outlet the unit is plugged into and verify that it has 120VAC coming from it. Also, be sure that you have 12VDC feeding the board.
Often overlooked are the 2 fuses inside the control board cover. The one on the left is the AC fuse, and the one (auto type) fuse in the lower central section is the DC fuse. Be sure thay are good also..............
If that is OK, and the element is good, it's almost a sure bet that it is the control board!!!
Easy test is to trace the wires from the element back to the board, remove them, make a jumper so they will plug directly into the 120VAC outlet and see if your element heats up. This will confirm that you have a bad board!
May we look at the other side of the coin? What would be the most likley reason the fridge would work fine on propane but does not run on city power?
Check your connections. I had a corroded connection on the temperature adjustment knob in my Trade Wind. All I had to do was clean it and everything was fine.
Here is my update – looks like the heating element is bad. After measuring an OPEN at the termional board, I founf on of the conductors broken/burned through. So now I guess a replacement element for my Dometic 77 is in order. Where is the best place to find one of these?
Thanks for all of the help, BTW, Lew where are the fuses you mentioned? That would be good knowledge to have.
Sounds like you have a bad heating element. If you have a multi-meter, set it to ohms, unplug the wires from the element that go into the control board and put the meter on the leads. You should get about 45 ohms as a reading. If you get nothing, you need a new element, which is way cheaper than a new fridge for $300.
Let me know if you have any other problems.
Hi Lewster; I have a bad element in my M 52 Dometic. Do you have access to a new element for this 40 year old model?
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