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Old 05-10-2013, 03:16 AM   #21
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With this model of fridge I have taken off the flame heat shield and blown out the flame a dozen times in a row and it has relit every time within a second of the flame going out. The thermocouple is doing its job relighting the burner so there should be no change to the heating of the boiler. There is no error code showing on the fridge display and on the last trip when this problem was noticed. If it can't keep cool while traveling in the low 80s there is no chance for the summer when its in the 90s. My 4cu/ft fridge in my Casita held temperatures well enough while traveling

Worse case is I purchase a new refrigerator. I don't want to mess with a refurbed cooling coil with a 90 warranty. I can't use the Airstream if this fridge is not operating correctly.

Kelvin
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:19 AM   #22
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I forgot to mention when I've had the gas bottles closed for a while in storage and open them up I normally light the stove burners to purge the air out of the lines. Seems the gas lines don't stay pressurized.

I went to the fridge and forced it to be on gas. I had the cover off the burner and could see the spark from the lighter. It tried several times then stopped. I'm not sure if it retries. I went to the fridge and turned if off then on and observed the the spark again. Still no light up. Turned the fridge off and on and third time it lit the burner. Blowing it out would relight it as mentioned above.

I guess the next time I won't turn off the fridge and see if it tries to relight. I never saw an E1 error code.

Kelvin
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:27 AM   #23
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FWIW.....I travel with fridge on max cold. Re-adjust when stopped.

Bob
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:50 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
If the sun was on the fridge side of the trailer, trailer closed tight for travel in hot weather and very warm inside, 54 degrees may be within the limits of this type of fridge. A really big deal here is if the fridge and freezer were nearly empty; it will warm up much slower than if there is much frozen stuff in the freezer and well stocked in the lower fridge.


doug k
Per Dometic tech; operating range for gas/absorption refrigerators if 34ºF to 42ºF. 54 is definitely out of range, unacceptable and way too warm.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:53 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
I forgot to mention when I've had the gas bottles closed for a while in storage and open them up I normally light the stove burners to purge the air out of the lines. Seems the gas lines don't stay pressurized.

I went to the fridge and forced it to be on gas. I had the cover off the burner and could see the spark from the lighter. It tried several times then stopped. I'm not sure if it retries. I went to the fridge and turned if off then on and observed the the spark again. Still no light up. Turned the fridge off and on and third time it lit the burner. Blowing it out would relight it as mentioned above.

I guess the next time I won't turn off the fridge and see if it tries to relight. I never saw an E1 error code.

Kelvin
Your DSI board in a fridge will attempt a re-light 3 times before it goes into lock-out. You then turn the fridge control to 'off' and then back to 'on' and try again 3X.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:31 AM   #26
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So if I'm going down the road the the wind is bad and the flame is blown out it tries 3 times and then gives up? Does it attempt to relight later? So if it was locking out during my drive home and wouldn't start for several hours until closer to home that might explain the fridge raise in temperatures. I would think it would have a timer to retry every couple of minutes at least.

I should make a homemade manometer to check the gas pressure. Has anyone tested it at the refrigerator test point? Is it possible my pressure is OK going to the other devices but is too low at the fridge?

Not able to go out this weekend to test but will try next weekend.

Kelvin
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:50 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
So if I'm going down the road the the wind is bad and the flame is blown out it tries 3 times and then gives up? Does it attempt to relight later? So if it was locking out during my drive home and wouldn't start for several hours until closer to home that might explain the fridge raise in temperatures. I would think it would have a timer to retry every couple of minutes at least.

I should make a homemade manometer to check the gas pressure. Has anyone tested it at the refrigerator test point? Is it possible my pressure is OK going to the other devices but is too low at the fridge?

Not able to go out this weekend to test but will try next weekend.

Kelvin
As the old saying goes.....3 strikes and yer OUT!

You have to manually turn off the fridge and then turn it back on.....same procedure with any LP appliance with a DSI board; water heater and furnace included.

If you test the fridge at the LP test port on the gas valve, you should get 11" water gauge (used to be called water column, but was changed a bunch of years ago due to confusion with the "WC" printed on LP tanks, which refers to water capacity". This test benchmark is with 50% of the LP appliances operating, which means that you should run the stove with all burners on and probably the water heater on LP as well when you do this test.
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:58 PM   #28
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I'm out at a Thousand Trails resort about 75 miles east of Dallas and its hot and humid (90F). The fridge was at 33F on AC at storage and when we arrived at the resort a couple of hours later the fridge was still at 33F. Maybe the extra shielding from the Dometic recall is helping.

Kelvin
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:19 PM   #29
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Hmmm...it ain't got no gas in it...
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:26 PM   #30
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I was (and still am) the joke of the campground because when I ran out of propane I waited a year and a half to fill the propane tanks and traded the trailer with full propane tanks. We never used the stove- only microwaved or cooked on the charcoal grill. We never used the propane furnace. We used an electric space heater, heated mattress cover, and electric blanket. We used the water heater on electric. I would ice down groceries in coolers before travel. The new Airstream has 2 roof airs with electric heat pumps. Woohoo! We only occasionally use the refrigerator on propane while traveling. My philosophy is that electricity comes with the campsite, propane costs extra. I took delivery of the Airstream October 15, 2012 and it is still full of propane. I ran out of propane in the previous trailer because I forgot to turn off the refrigerator after a trip.
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Old 05-18-2013, 08:28 PM   #31
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We had a few flame-out problems in heavy cross winds. I found a simple fix with a cut-to-fit home air filter.

I cut it to fit just inside the bottom access door. It fixed the flame out issues and keeps the compartment a little cleaner.

I also installed a small thermistor controlled fan directly on the coils on the back of the refrigerator. This helped the entire unit stay much cooler both under way and on hot days in the sun.

There is simply not much run for air flow near the top of the refer where the trailer side walls make the curve. The air slows down in the close fit near a set of fins at the very top corner of the refer. Ours would keep the freezer section hard frozen, but the lower compartment would reach the mid 40s. Too warm for comfort, in my opinion.

These fixes keep it in the mid 30s, no matter what.


Regards,

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Old 05-18-2013, 10:55 PM   #32
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One thing you may want to check is that the propane regulator is working properly and adjusted to spec. for pressure. I don't know the specifics of this adjustment but didn't see it mentioned in this discussion.
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