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Old 05-01-2013, 03:22 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by TouringDan View Post
Getting an rv fridge to stay much below 40 in hot weather can some times be a challenge.

One thing that I do is to freeze a gallon jug of water solid. This helps keep the fridge temperature close to 32 on a warm day when the fridge has a hard time keeping cold. When the ice finally does melt, you have some good cold ice water.

To freeze a gallon jug of water, don't just fill it with cold water and put it in the freezer. Fill it with ice cubes, then add ice water, then put it in the freezer.

To help with long term hot weather fridge performance, sometimes I freeze water in the freezer at night then transfer the ice to the fridge during the day to make sure the fridge temperature stays below 40.

I just returned from a weekend camping trip. With highs in the 60's and lows in the 40's fridge performance was great- even set on 50 % cold, I was freezing cream in the fridge.

When juggling the ice is not enough then I will work on improving the performance using fans.

Good luck, Dan
The problem might well be with the fridge unit itself, but Dan is right, that the temperature of the fridge contents when you put them in will affect the fridge temperature.

Our solution is similar to Dan's. We take along 3 of those blue gel freezer pacs, frozen solid, and, depending on what we are doing and how the food is faring, we either pack them amongst the food in the fridge, or simply refreeze them in the Bambi.

Not trying to start WW III here again, but we don't drive with the propane on, and find the freezer pacs work fine in keeping everything cold while traveling.
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:19 AM   #16
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I plan to take the AS out this Sunday. I'll turn the fridge on Saturday in storage on electricity and let it switch to gas and go for a 2 hour drive, have a picnic somewhere and then drive back. I have a thermometer that has a wireless sensor so I can monitor the temperature inside the fridge while I'm drive. I'll record the temperature. I still have about two months of my 90 day warranty so the weather should be heating up in the Texas soon for me to get an accurate history. I figured a 7 cu/ft fridge would be easier to keep cool than a smaller fridge.

I'll try to fit in the recall during this time to see if it has any affect.

Thanks

Kelvin
Remember the fridge temperature will not be as stable when empty, it will quickly warm up compared to a full fridge. Put some frozen milk cartons of ice in the freezer and enough cold items in the lower unit to simulate actual use, that will be a better test of how it will work for you.

dooug k
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Old 05-03-2013, 05:06 AM   #17
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I'm going to get the recall done to my fridge but looking at the 2nd photo above that Robert provided, I can't see how it can shield the pilot flame from blow out. The aluminum box around the flame unit looks unchanged. What protects the flame from being blown out all the time?

I'm thinking of making a U tube manometer. The articles always say to use colored water but what do you color the water water with? I can only think of food dye.

I now know why my Casita never had this issue is because the fridge is on curb side so no passing trucks and the flame unit is at the forward part of the compartment which is upstream of passing wind across the vent vs the AS being on the street side subject to passing traffic and is located downstream to the wind flow across the vent.

Kelvin
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:57 PM   #18
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No test performed this weekend. Where is that hot nasty humid weather that was here last year. Thats OK. I got some other stuff done on the AS.

I did check the LP flame to see if it was relighting if blown out. I had closed the tanks so the fridge wasn't starting on gas easily. Even running the stove burners didn't seem to help. I could see the ignition spark but no gas. After several attempts it gave up but I didn't wait to see if it would start again so I turned the fridge off then on. No error codes.

Finally the flame lit. I had the box cover off. If I blew the flame out it started immediately. I had the cover off so it was easiy to blow the flame out. I blew on it a dozen times and it relighted instantly. I put the cover on and tried to low it out. Much harder but I think I managed to do it once. The little box covers the flame well but the weakness is underneath where there is an opening. If I direct my blowing there I could hear the flame being affected. All it would need is a little aluminum fence velcroed. in front of it. I'm going to hold off as I'm having the Dometic recall performed on Wednesday. I'll wait and see what changes are made.

I took a photo of the 30 foot Airstream next to me in storage. I dont' know what year it is but it looks like its 2010 to 2012.

The first photo is my fridge and the 2nd is the other Airstream. My Airstream is over 5 years old and the fridge compartment is cleaner because the PO didn't use the his trailer much. The other Airstream looks to have a wind proof box around it. Thats what I need.

Kelvin
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:19 AM   #19
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I had the Dometic recall work done yesterday. Attached is a photo. I didn't like how it was installed so I remounted that plate with the label. I'm hoping this will help with the performance of the fridge while towing.

I talked to the technician about the performance of the fridge while driving and maybe the street side location was prone to flame blow outs all the time. He said that wind over the top by the vent can create a suction effect too. I explained there is a fence on the roof between the AC and fridge vent and he said that was for aerodynamic around the fridge vent.

He also said there are some fridges that don't behave during travel, they work fine while stationary but in travel they loose their efficiency.

Kelvin
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:48 AM   #20
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Kelvin,

We had a chronic blow-out problem with our 63 Safari.

I placed a PVC louvered screen behind the grill. Wide openings to the rear.

You might try something similar if the problem persists.

Bob
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:16 AM   #21
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With this model of fridge I have taken off the flame heat shield and blown out the flame a dozen times in a row and it has relit every time within a second of the flame going out. The thermocouple is doing its job relighting the burner so there should be no change to the heating of the boiler. There is no error code showing on the fridge display and on the last trip when this problem was noticed. If it can't keep cool while traveling in the low 80s there is no chance for the summer when its in the 90s. My 4cu/ft fridge in my Casita held temperatures well enough while traveling

Worse case is I purchase a new refrigerator. I don't want to mess with a refurbed cooling coil with a 90 warranty. I can't use the Airstream if this fridge is not operating correctly.

Kelvin
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:19 AM   #22
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I forgot to mention when I've had the gas bottles closed for a while in storage and open them up I normally light the stove burners to purge the air out of the lines. Seems the gas lines don't stay pressurized.

I went to the fridge and forced it to be on gas. I had the cover off the burner and could see the spark from the lighter. It tried several times then stopped. I'm not sure if it retries. I went to the fridge and turned if off then on and observed the the spark again. Still no light up. Turned the fridge off and on and third time it lit the burner. Blowing it out would relight it as mentioned above.

I guess the next time I won't turn off the fridge and see if it tries to relight. I never saw an E1 error code.

Kelvin
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:27 AM   #23
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FWIW.....I travel with fridge on max cold. Re-adjust when stopped.

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Old 05-10-2013, 09:50 AM   #24
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If the sun was on the fridge side of the trailer, trailer closed tight for travel in hot weather and very warm inside, 54 degrees may be within the limits of this type of fridge. A really big deal here is if the fridge and freezer were nearly empty; it will warm up much slower than if there is much frozen stuff in the freezer and well stocked in the lower fridge.


doug k
Per Dometic tech; operating range for gas/absorption refrigerators if 34ºF to 42ºF. 54 is definitely out of range, unacceptable and way too warm.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:53 AM   #25
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I forgot to mention when I've had the gas bottles closed for a while in storage and open them up I normally light the stove burners to purge the air out of the lines. Seems the gas lines don't stay pressurized.

I went to the fridge and forced it to be on gas. I had the cover off the burner and could see the spark from the lighter. It tried several times then stopped. I'm not sure if it retries. I went to the fridge and turned if off then on and observed the the spark again. Still no light up. Turned the fridge off and on and third time it lit the burner. Blowing it out would relight it as mentioned above.

I guess the next time I won't turn off the fridge and see if it tries to relight. I never saw an E1 error code.

Kelvin
Your DSI board in a fridge will attempt a re-light 3 times before it goes into lock-out. You then turn the fridge control to 'off' and then back to 'on' and try again 3X.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:31 PM   #26
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So if I'm going down the road the the wind is bad and the flame is blown out it tries 3 times and then gives up? Does it attempt to relight later? So if it was locking out during my drive home and wouldn't start for several hours until closer to home that might explain the fridge raise in temperatures. I would think it would have a timer to retry every couple of minutes at least.

I should make a homemade manometer to check the gas pressure. Has anyone tested it at the refrigerator test point? Is it possible my pressure is OK going to the other devices but is too low at the fridge?

Not able to go out this weekend to test but will try next weekend.

Kelvin
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:50 PM   #27
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So if I'm going down the road the the wind is bad and the flame is blown out it tries 3 times and then gives up? Does it attempt to relight later? So if it was locking out during my drive home and wouldn't start for several hours until closer to home that might explain the fridge raise in temperatures. I would think it would have a timer to retry every couple of minutes at least.

I should make a homemade manometer to check the gas pressure. Has anyone tested it at the refrigerator test point? Is it possible my pressure is OK going to the other devices but is too low at the fridge?

Not able to go out this weekend to test but will try next weekend.

Kelvin
As the old saying goes.....3 strikes and yer OUT!

You have to manually turn off the fridge and then turn it back on.....same procedure with any LP appliance with a DSI board; water heater and furnace included.

If you test the fridge at the LP test port on the gas valve, you should get 11" water gauge (used to be called water column, but was changed a bunch of years ago due to confusion with the "WC" printed on LP tanks, which refers to water capacity". This test benchmark is with 50% of the LP appliances operating, which means that you should run the stove with all burners on and probably the water heater on LP as well when you do this test.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:58 PM   #28
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I'm out at a Thousand Trails resort about 75 miles east of Dallas and its hot and humid (90F). The fridge was at 33F on AC at storage and when we arrived at the resort a couple of hours later the fridge was still at 33F. Maybe the extra shielding from the Dometic recall is helping.

Kelvin
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