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bike_addict · 01-20-2012, 07:06 PM

I went to storage yesterday to turn my fridge on so it would be cold for today. It was plugged in but when I went back today to turn it off (had to cancel trip) it wasn't running. It was showing that it was trying to run on LP but of course the tanks were off.
I checked the light on the plug and it was lit up and I turned the a/c on to see if it run and it did.
I turned the fridge off and back on but it went straight to LP, I could hear it trying to light.

So any ideas on why it won't run on shore power?
Anything I need to check?

idroba · 01-20-2012, 07:22 PM

It still sounds like it is not getting 120 volts at the refrigerator. Plug a test light into the socket the refrig is plugged into and be sure there is power there. Possibly a C/B has tripped out, or the newer units might have a GFI on the refrigerator circuit which has tripped. In the old days the refrigerator was not on a GFI circuit, but codes may have changed for your new rig. Check for tripped GFI's in the Kitchen area.

To find the plug where the refrig is connected to 120 volts, look at the back of the refrigerator through the access/vent port for a 120 volt cord with a normal cap which plugs into an outlet somewhere back there. Unplug it and test the outlet.

bike_addict · 01-20-2012, 08:22 PM

I'll check that tomorrow.

Does the fridge have two power sources? One that is a small charge to power the display and the "switch" that tells it to use shore or LP and then the 120 for shore power?

I assume that's the case or my display wouldn't be working.

idroba · 01-20-2012, 09:53 PM

Your refrigerator controls use 12 volts. That power also runs the electronic ignition for the gas side of the unit. So, to have the gas work, you must have 12 volt power for the controls and ignition. To have the 120 volt side work, you must have both 12 volt power for the controls and 120 volt power for the heating element which does the cooling.

Jammer · 01-20-2012, 09:58 PM

Ronnie

I believe the fridge on your unit has controls is the one with the confusingly named buttons. For it to work on 120v the "AES" light has to be on, if it's off then push the button next to it.

If the AES light is on and it still tries to run on gas well then you have to check breakers and check that it's plugged in. I believe there's an internal fuse but at that point it's probably best approached as a warranty repair.

bike_addict · 01-29-2012, 07:32 PM

Finally made it over to storage today to troubleshoot the fridge. I used the plug tester and the plug was dead. Turns out it was the GFI.

Thanks for the suggestions everybody.

Mr & Mrs S · 01-29-2012, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bike_addict

Finally made it over to storage today to troubleshoot the fridge. I used the plug tester and the plug was dead. Turns out it was the GFI.

Thanks for the suggestions everybody.

Well at least its not something that sends you back to the dealer.

is.chowa · 02-21-2012, 01:48 PM

Unless the GFI itself is malfunctioning, you should look a bit closer as to why the GFI trips. I am having a problem with fridge wanting to go on gas after starting out on 120V.

I suspect that the 120V heater calrod is shorting out to the case when heating up as it takes some time for the GFI to trip. Will replace the heater soon as I can get one from CW.

Steve