Fridge just doesn't cool well

[boondockdad]

Originally Posted by Jim J

I have had this problem twice while running on gas. Most recently this spring while on a trip.

If you fridge works on electricity, then you know the cooling unit is good.
If it does not work on gas or electricity, the cooling unit could be bad.

For gas cooling this is my experience.

1. Make sure you have good gas flow from the tank to the regulator, if the tank is not full, fill it, check the little pigtails for leaks, I have had those go bad, resulting in the tank safety valve curtailing the flow out of the tank. (part of my problem this spring)

2. Make sure the tank selector valve is pointing to the tank where you turned the valve on.

3. Your regulator is probably good, but they can fail. You can make yourself a manometer (google it) to check the pressure using some tubing, a board and a yardstick.

You need 11 in of water minimum to get effective cooling. There is a gas pressure test port on the gas solenoid. A dealer can quickly check this for you, and adjust or replace the regulator in case you do not wish to make a manometer or do gas line plumbing. If you have kids, this could be a good science project, as are most things that break on an RV.

4. Do the periodic maintenance as called out in the refrigerator manual. You did keep the manual didn't you? It tells you how to clean the orifice, the burner tube, and the flue. Contamination is frequently the problem due to dirt or small bugs that get into the burner assembly, or rust or carbon build up on the burner tube and in the flue. This is easy to do if you follow the instructions in your manual to avoid damaging the orifice.

As you are cleaning the burner remember this important tip which you will not find in the manual but all experienced Airstreamers know: DO NOT USE YOUR WIFE'S TOOTHBRUSH TO CLEAN THE BURNER SLOTS! Wives hate fridge burner cooties on their tooth brushes.

Also: Turn off the gas the refrigerator and disconnect the 110 V and 12 V to the fridge. The 12 V will not hurt you but the 25,000 volts from the igniter might give you a start. Remember to put it all back when you are done cleaning. You will be in a hurry at this point to see if your fridge works but it will take at least 12 hours to find out so just slow things down and put it all back nice. Make this cleaning an annual event. A
clean fridge is a cold fridge. (2nd part of my problem this spring)

Good stuff right there. Thanks ur way.

Some new weirdness we noticed last week: on AC temps were perfect. But, travelling on LP after an hour or so, the fridge was ~55 degrees, while the bag of cubed ice we had in the freezer was solid. No melt, no refreeze.

Fridge flue/burner/etc. had been cleaned. No ammonia smell. Not much food inside, heat fins not blocked, also using 12v circulation fan. Checked regulator. Reading just under 9 inHg.

[Frey]

I'm having the same problem in Utah--over 46 straight days over 100F with little relief at night. Refrigerator temp stays between 40 to 50 in the bottom. The top will freeze water. It's set on 5 and running on auto. I've also run it on gas for a week to see if it helped. It's in a perfectly balanced 2014 25' Flying Cloud (I balanced it by using a level inside the freezer box). The coach is parked with the frig on the north side and an awning out during the day.

Here's what I'm going to try:

- I moved the thermo probe as far as I could into the fin area, it was set about an inch below the fins.

- Buy a battery operated fan for the lower box.

- Install a computer-style fan in the rear to force more air past the cooling fins.