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08-18-2015, 10:27 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Renton
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 154
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Fridge issue?
Relative newbie. Couldn't find this info in owners manual.
If you're plugged in, shouldn't fridge work without propane?
Didn't notice this was an issue before but when fridge is on auto it still 'clicks' like trying to light off gas. Checked breakers and fuses and ok. Does gas have to be on?
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08-18-2015, 10:45 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2015 25' Flying Cloud
Bend
, Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 761
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You have to select the correct mode on the fridge. On mine have 2 options:
1. propane only
2. Auto mode. Will use propane until you plug in to shore power, then will switch electric.
hope this helps.
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08-18-2015, 10:47 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2015 25' Flying Cloud
Bend
, Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 761
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Sorry, I am tired and did not read properly.
Propane can be off and the electric should work. Are you getting an error code? It will take time for the electric heater to warm up and produce cooling.
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08-18-2015, 10:54 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2013 25' FB Flying Cloud
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,105
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My trailer is a different model from yours, but I can share a few basic points.
1) When you have shore power, the propane does not need to be on.
2) Assuming your fridge's automatic mode is like mine, when it senses 120 volt power, it will run on 120 volt power, regardless of whether propane is on (if the fridge is set to automatic)
3) Given #2, if your fridge is clicking because it is trying to spark, either it is set to run on propane, or there is something wrong with the power supply to the fridge.
There are a few simple things to check
1) Do you have 120 volt power anywhere in your trailer? If not, check the outside power connections and breaker. Also, check the 30amp breaker in your trailer.
2) In some Airstream owner's manuals, there is an electrical chapter that will tell you what breaker the fridge is on, and what items share a circuit breaker with your fridge. Check that breaker and see if those other things have power.
3) In many cases, the fridge gets its 120 volt power from an outlet in the back of the fridge. Stick your head in there, look up and all around (use a flashlight even) and you should find it. Make sure the plug is securely inserted.
My 2013 Flying Cloud owner manual says the fridge for the 19 is on breaker number 4, along with the outlets for the television, bathroom, outside, kitchen, and dinette.
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08-19-2015, 12:44 PM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Renton
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 154
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Thank you. I'll check the outlets tonight.
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08-19-2015, 12:53 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2014 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Chelsea
, Michigan
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,792
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You have a relatively new Airstream so I am going to assume that your fridge can be set to run on "auto" or "gas-only" mode. To have the fridge work on electric when plugged in and gas when not, the setting should be set for auto, not gas. if it is set on gas and the gas is off it will not run even if you are plugged into AC.
__________________
Bob Martel
WBCCI# 5766
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08-19-2015, 01:33 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Renton
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 154
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Thanks. In either mode I hear it click to spark when I turn it on. Must be electrical connection somewhere. I didn't think to check outlets.
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08-19-2015, 01:55 PM
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#8
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Overland Adventurer
1991 34' Excella
2009 34' Panamerica
Telluride
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 2,476
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Just to confirm....
Even on gas the fridge must have a sound 12 volt power source, on 110v and gas sources.
The fridge has some relays that you'll hear clicking at start up and as the electronic thermostat reaches both upper and lower thresholds.
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08-19-2015, 01:57 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2014 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Chelsea
, Michigan
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orange kayak
Thanks. In either mode I hear it click to spark when I turn it on. Must be electrical connection somewhere. I didn't think to check outlets.
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It should not click in dual mode if you have a good AC connection so my guess is that you are not getting AC to the fridge for any of the reasons noted in an earlier post. After you check your shore power and the breakers in the trailer and confirm that all is OK, I would plug a small light into the AC socket in the back of the fridge to see if it works. The outlet should be accessible via the panel door outside the trailer behind the fridge. If the light does not work, you know that there is a problem between the breaker and the fridge plug. If the light does work, then you are likely looking at calling in a professional RV fridge tech.
__________________
Bob Martel
WBCCI# 5766
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08-19-2015, 03:51 PM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Renton
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 154
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Great info. I'll follow up on here after checking tonight. Fridge is working on gas, thankfully.
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08-19-2015, 04:53 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2014 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Chelsea
, Michigan
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orange kayak
Great info. I'll follow up on here after checking tonight. Fridge is working on gas, thankfully.
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Based on this, I'm willing to bet that the AC outlet is not getting power for whatever reason.
Good luck and keep us posted!
__________________
Bob Martel
WBCCI# 5766
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08-19-2015, 07:34 PM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Renton
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 154
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Arg! Whatever I did I just made it worse! As per owners manual I unplugged fridge, disconnected d/c wires and opened fridge fuse box. All looked good. Red wire touched metal while disconnected and sparked. Hooked back up and no fridge power. Did test of 20a gfci and it tripped and won't turn back on. : ( Might be a cooler weekend.
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08-19-2015, 07:49 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
I'm In
, Kentucky
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orange kayak
Arg! Whatever I did I just made it worse! As per owners manual I unplugged fridge, disconnected d/c wires and opened fridge fuse box. All looked good. Red wire touched metal while disconnected and sparked. Hooked back up and no fridge power. Did test of 20a gfci and it tripped and won't turn back on. : ( Might be a cooler weekend.
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You have blown a 12v fuse and you probably don't have 110vac at the fridge plug. Check your owners manual for the right fuse for the fridge 12vdc supply. Check your 110 circuit breakers too, one may be thrown but looks OK. turn them off then back on again. You need one electric supply or the other.
If the breakers are OK, plug something into to the wall plug on the outside that the fridge plugs into. A cell phone charger would be good, plug that in and see if your phone starts to charge
If you have an extension cord, plug the fridge into that and then to the AC supply on the post and make sure the breaker is turned on. That will get you through the night.
__________________
-Rich
Rich & Yvonne
2006 Safari SE -Dora-
2004 4Runner SE 4.7L V8
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08-19-2015, 08:04 PM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Renton
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 154
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I left in frustration. Thank you. I'll check when I get back. : )
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08-19-2015, 09:37 PM
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#15
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3 Rivet Member
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Renton
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 154
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It was a 12v fuse. Fridge working again! Still don't know what's up with ac but at least we have fridge for the weekend. I'm guessing I need to replace gfci curcuit breaker before add'l troubleshooting there. Thank you for the assistance!
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08-20-2015, 07:12 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2006 23' Safari SE
I'm In
, Kentucky
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,251
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On the frustration issue, been there too. My wife heads for the hills when she sees that slow boil starting to show up on my face.
Diagnosing issues is a matter of elimination. If the fridge isn't working on AC you need to know if it's in the fridge or the wiring. If you have an extension cord, plug the fridge into that, then the cord into the 15 amp plug on your power post next to the 30 amp (or any known working outlet). Make sure the power post breaker is "on". If the fridge is running, you know it's the wiring. If not, it's the heating element inside that tube near the chimney.
Mine went bad but it's easy to replace. Remove the one screw on the access flap and remove the flap. The heating element is right inside; remove and replace.
__________________
-Rich
Rich & Yvonne
2006 Safari SE -Dora-
2004 4Runner SE 4.7L V8
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08-20-2015, 09:33 AM
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#17
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3 Rivet Member
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Renton
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 154
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You are so helpful! Thank you. I'll test the fridge AC w/ extension cord tonight.
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08-20-2015, 09:47 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
2014 31' Classic
2015 23' International
2013 25' FB International
Apache Junction
, Arizona
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 6,214
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Regardless of either propane or electric power for the fridge, the 12Vdc is needed to run the logic board in refrigerator.
__________________
WBCCI Life Member 5123, AIR 70341, 4CU, WD9EMC
TV - 2012 Dodge 2500 4x4 Cummins HO, automatic, Centramatics, Kelderman level ride airbag suspension, bed shell
2014 31' Classic w/ twin beds, 50 amp service, 1000 watt solar system, Centramatics, Tuson TPMS, 12" disc brakes, 16" tires & wheels
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08-29-2015, 12:57 PM
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#19
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3 Rivet Member
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Renton
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 154
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Finally got a chance to test fridge. Works fine when on gas. Turned off gas, plugged fridge directly in to extension cord plugged in to outlet. Still get the clicking sound like it's trying to start but wont.
GFCI breaker won't reset. Either related to fridge or something I did trying to troubleshoot. Can I replace it (esentially, is this a job a novice can handle?) Still camping season here; I'd prefer not to haul in for service if it's still safe to use. : )
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08-29-2015, 01:18 PM
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#20
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3 Rivet Member
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Renton
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 154
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I did try to remove screw holding flap by chimney. Was pretty tight and I didn't want to strip it out. I'll see if service can do a quick turnover.
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