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Old 06-04-2011, 08:06 AM   #15
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On our '63 I used a cut down screen door guard, (one with the medium size holes), that I could put over the opening while on the road. Allowed air in but broke up the draft enough to keep the burner going.
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Old 06-04-2011, 10:14 AM   #16
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1956 16' Bubble
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I installed a computer fan on the fridge exterior hatch and pointed it up so that it would send fresh air over the heat exchanger and out the vent. I ran wire to a switch inside the trailer I have a couple pictures on my thread. "1956 bubble restoration start to finish". It's maybe on page 12 or so? I can't remember. But maybe something that helps your fridge? I haven't used it in hot weather yet as the maiden voyage is next week. I'm also using a baffle. Cheers Ted
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Old 06-04-2011, 10:26 AM   #17
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Here it is. In my case I have to use a baffle so I can cool using just one vent. Its a retrofit of what i hsd to work with The fan pulls air from the lower section and passes out the top. It's remarkable how much air a simple fan moves. I'll find out in august how it works in warmer conditions. It's only in the 70s in Oregon now in early summer. Cheers. Ted
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Old 06-04-2011, 12:28 PM   #18
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Chuck,

Our fridge has with one exception maintained a temperature of 39-41˚. The exception was when the temp was above 100˚ (106˚ at one place) for a couple of hours while we were driving. Then it went up to the upper 40's. We have a small battery powered fan in the fridge, but not elsewhere.

It was at the end of July in Utah. We stopped for the night in Green River, put out the awning to shade the trailer, turned on the A/C and waited for hours for the interior and the fridge to cool down.

This sounds similar to your experience. There is a setting to lower the temp in the fridge and you may use that to start the day at a lower temp.

We also bring some gel packs and keep them frozen in the freezer. If the fridge fails, we can use those to keep food cold for a while. We have a cooler with us and can cool it with the gel packs (those hard blue plastic things) if we pick up cold or frozen items at a store and it will be a while before we get back to the trailer.

We try to stay away from 90˚ temps as Airstreams aren't really that good in very hot conditions—insulation is thin, windows are single pane, A/C can't keep up.

And, your profile needs amending for a different trailer (or an extra one).

Lynn, I've read the newer fridges are less sensitive to being off level than older ones. I'm surprised to see you say the opposite.

Gene
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Old 06-04-2011, 12:33 PM   #19
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Oh, you could park our rig on a mountain side, and the old fridge would work. Not so with the new one.

Lynn
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Old 06-04-2011, 12:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eubank View Post
Oh, you could park our rig on a mountain side, and the old fridge would work. Not so with the new one.

Lynn
Lynn, how strange. But you could bring both and be sure one would always work.

After reading all too many refrigerator stories, I've come to believe QC isn't all that good—some last for decades without problems and some always seem to be cranky. This somehow reminds me I have a taillight out (turn/brake works) and have to go test it.

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Old 06-04-2011, 04:43 PM   #21
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Airstream can't do a whole lot about RV appliance manufacturers' QC. (They're a little flea compared to the big RV companies.)

Lynn

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Lynn, how strange. But you could bring both and be sure one would always work.

After reading all too many refrigerator stories, I've come to believe QC isn't all that good—some last for decades without problems and some always seem to be cranky. This somehow reminds me I have a taillight out (turn/brake works) and have to go test it.

Gene
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Old 06-05-2011, 07:58 PM   #22
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Chuck, we had the exact same problem with '07 25FB. On a trip from Arkansas to Yellowstone we lost all of our freezer goods and a lot of groceries. The problem was that the refrigerator would not stay on while towing because wind was blowing it out. I bought a cheap filter at Lowe's and cut it to fit. I used some velcro tabs to hold it place while we're towing. I then remove it when we stop. Worked great.
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Old 06-06-2011, 06:10 AM   #23
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Thanks, I'm on my way to Lowe's! You would think that Air Stream would have fixed this problem, seems from the number of post we were not the only ones this happened to.
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:04 PM   #24
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I am new to the airstream family and have a 1972 Agosy Dometic frig. I have it runing on propane . But can not seam to get it running on electric?????? heating element ? if this is what is the problem.Were can one be purchased and do you happen to know what the cost is?How is the heating element removed ? from the out side or does one have to remove the frig. to get to it ??????Need so help, please advise.
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Old 06-26-2011, 08:49 PM   #25
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Gosman, before you buy a heating element, did you check to see if it is heating? This sounds obvious, but I miss the obvious sometimes, so I figure others do. How about fuses? Is there power to the heating element? Broken wires?

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Old 06-27-2011, 06:33 PM   #26
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Gene
First the Frig . is getting cold with PROPANE!.

Now when I check the out let were the Frig . is pluged in to it is getting electric, my tester light comes on.

When I touched the backer plate were the wires go in to and I believe the heating element is , it is warm to the touch. But remimber just below is were you light the propane to the Frig.

The coils are all so warm to the touch so I know that is working as well.
Question with all that I told you must I still check the fuses ? I did not see any broken wires unless they are behind the plate that covers the heating element .
George
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:46 PM   #27
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George, sounds like electricity is getting to the heating element. Maybe the element is on its last legs. I have had to change the heating element in a water heater after a few years. You never know how long they will last. I imagine (note the word, "imagine") that the element should be hot, not warm, but others may know more.

Further imagining: if you can see it, you can remove it without taking out the fridge (I hope). There may be a baffle in front of it to prevent the wind from blowing out the the propane flame, so I'd remove that and look for where the wires go and take things apart until I found the element. Once you get to it, remove it, go to the RV store with it and the fridge model number, and see if they have one in stock. Unplug the power especially if it's 120 v. first. If you have a 3 way fridge, it could be 12 v but would have lots of amps; if 2 way, it'll be 120 v. (I think). I don't know how old the fridge is, so it could be 2 way, 3 way, have electronic ignition for the propane. I've never done this, but that's how I would troubleshoot it. You may have been right about the element but troubleshooting starts with the receptacle and fuse or breaker and moving on from there.

Gas will heat about twice as fast as electricity, but I'd think the element would be pretty hot and you'd not want to touch it. If this fridge has a pilot light, I'd turn that off first too. A newer one will have electronic ignition. Just make sure the fridge is off and unplug the plug.

I hope this helps.

Gene
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