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Old 07-05-2005, 08:06 PM   #1
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freezer works great fridge to warm

I have a dometic rm100. The freezer works great on it. But, the fridge doesn't get cold enough. Is there anything I can do to correct this problem? Any answers will be greatly appreaciated.
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Old 07-05-2005, 08:43 PM   #2
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is the door seal working correctly? Put a flashlight inside the fridge and turn out all the lights in the trailer and look around the seal for light, that will tell you if it is or is not sealed.
Also how long have you waited for it to cool off? mabye give it a little more time.
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Old 07-05-2005, 09:17 PM   #3
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The door has a good seal. And the fridge has been running on ac for 3 days.
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Old 07-25-2005, 06:08 PM   #4
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I have the same exact problem. Freezer is very cold, the fridge is just slightly colder than outside temp.
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Old 07-25-2005, 06:45 PM   #5
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Same thing here except that I think performance will be improved once it is filled up. try an experamint - load it up with bottles of water and see what happens. They do cool down quite a bit at night but warm during the day. Loaded the temperature will not go up as much. Also, gas or electric the vent to atmosphere must be clear to allow the heat to dissipate. make sure it is clear. Some have reported that a small fan in the vent pipe helps improve the temperature of the fridge.
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connors95
I have a dometic rm100. The freezer works great on it. But, the fridge doesn't get cold enough. Is there anything I can do to correct this problem? Any answers will be greatly appreaciated.
Could be a sign of impending failure. I know my fridge fell down on the refrigerator performance prior to its death. Freezer worked fine. I hope this isn't the situation for you.

Jack
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:20 PM   #7
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Classic

This definitley a classic sign of failure.

I am currently re-building my RM3807. The freezer has icemaker that works great!
Reefer section is warm.

I have researched much and it is a concensus in the RV refrig industry, FAILING cooling unit.

Sorry to be bearer of bad news but you can get plenty of info at this web site www.nucold.com or www.rvmobile.com there are other websites that will give you same info.
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Old 07-25-2005, 07:38 PM   #8
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We had this issue in hot, humid weather

and have solved it by installing a fan on the outside the unit (but inside the access thingie) that we turn on to blow air over the coils. We also run a fan inside the refrigerator that we purchased from Campingworld for about $12.00 that runs on battery. Between the two fans we keep the refrigerator cool.
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Old 07-31-2005, 07:19 PM   #9
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dometic fridge

Hi,
sounds exactly like a bad cooling unit. Try banging on the coils to see if you can get some more life out of it. A bad cooling unit usually means just ditching your old fridge and getting a new one, unless you can replace the cooling unit yourself, not an easy job. Get a norcold fridge for a replacement, cheaper and more reliable.
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Old 08-02-2005, 01:52 PM   #10
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Ditto. I had a Dometic 2804 and had the exact same

problem. Changed out the cooling unit but it only worked for an hour.

Finally went with a Norcold 641. Works great.
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Old 08-02-2005, 03:00 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by myboyburt
and have solved it by installing a fan on the outside the unit (but inside the access thingie) that we turn on to blow air over the coils. We also run a fan inside the refrigerator that we purchased from Campingworld for about $12.00 that runs on battery. Between the two fans we keep the refrigerator cool.
ditto on the hot, humid weather...had an old residential servel. ran fine in the winter, not too well in the summer. finally died after 50 yrs...pilot safety was oem and wasnt made any more. threw it out rather then jury rig....safety,safety,safety....
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Old 08-02-2005, 03:49 PM   #12
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As a fellow owner of a late 70's vintage RM100, here are a few easy things to try:
Use a 9" torpedo level to see if the fridge is really level. Ours was tilted relative to the trailer floor.
As mentioned before, put some jugs of water in there to give it some thermal mass.
Is your thermometer a bulb with external display?
Try running it on gas. The electrical connections for the 115 V mode may be slightly corroded. Cover the burner with some aluminum foil and rap on the chimney to get the shower of rust dust to drop out without plugging the burner before lighting it. The gas mode puts a lot more heat into the ammonia circuit than the electric heater.
Watch out for the controls. The old plastic adjusters get sticky and you may need to open the back to get it to switch modes. Just old plastic.

Good luck!
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Old 09-13-2005, 11:52 AM   #13
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I had the same problem with my RM100 but found it to be the flue stack was clogged. Dometic has an easy test you can do. Once your unit is lit open the door and feel the heat at the base of the burner assembly and then again in the middle of the flue stack by the asorbtion tubes. The heat should be the same if the flue is hotter at the bottom the flue is clogged. The clog can be anywhere along the flue and you may need to pull the unit to clean it out completly. I was lucky mine was right at the bottom. Now I will pull the burner assembly and clean that while I have it apart.

Follow this link for more info: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/Mandiag.pdf
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Old 09-14-2005, 05:47 PM   #14
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Day two of my refrigerator fix. The freezer has ice and the fresh food compartment is as cold as it has ever been. Total cost of this fix was $0. and the repair guy said the it probably needed a new cooler. If I had put in a cooler it would have done the same thing and I still would have needed to clean the flue stack.
I did drop the burner, easy instructions on Dometic page. I was able to clean it completly and then really get inside the flue and get that cleaned out.
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