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Old 09-14-2005, 10:03 PM   #15
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Just for the record......

My fridge was 35 years old. The first time that I tested it, I noticed greenish gold goo oozing out of the fittings ( deadly amonia gas ). The fridge section still froze eggs and milk. I said goodbye to the old fridge, and $1200.

The moral of the story.....check the fittings in the back of your fridge
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Old 09-22-2005, 08:01 PM   #16
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I've got a RM 761 that is not cooling adequately. I read through the Dometic manual, and am not convinced that the fridge is completely shot. It is hot at the burner, and almost as hot at the Absorber vessel. The tubes above that are pretty warm to hot as well. I got dust out of the condenser today, but that did not seem to fix it. I can not see above the condenser fins.

Exactly what part are you referring to as the 'flue'. Is that the round vertical enclosure above the burner? Is it difficult to remove the unit for service, and checking and cleaning out the vents, etc? I want to believe that it is a ventilation problem. I think I got it level enough.

Need more info!

JMG
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Old 09-23-2005, 09:59 AM   #17
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John, the flue is the steel chimney. It is about 2 inches in diameter and extends the full height of the refer from the top of the burner. Instructions for cleaning it are at
http://www.airforums.com/forum...lue+brush+nick
Details are also on the Dometic website. It's a vital piece of routine maintenance. You may need to pull the refer into the central corridoor of the trailer for access to the top of the flue for inserting the brush. Good luck.
Nick.
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Old 09-28-2005, 07:23 AM   #18
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John
it would be worthwhile to pull the unit out and thoroughly clean the flue, this is not a difficult task. Instructions are given in the Dometic manual.
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Old 09-28-2005, 12:37 PM   #19
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I am glad to see that this topic has popped up again.
I spent an hour blowing out my chimney and coils and flue. This gave me modest improvements to performance. I can say that being level is so very important. I found this out when we came back from our trip and found the freezer still cold but the fridge very warm. The trailer was parked on the slope part of the driveway and it was more than enough to make things not work.
In any event, we are going to replace our unit because it just doesn't work well and I suspect that it needs a charge of ammonia or may be partly plugged.
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Old 09-28-2005, 12:50 PM   #20
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Before you replace your reefer, you might try another repair.

Cleaning and blowing out the flue really doesn't do much ggod.

What does make a huge difference, is the condition of the flame. Take the burner apart. Clean out the rust particles form the burner base. Soak the oriface in "Lime-away" for about a day. Reassemble the burner and then check the flame, at night is preferred. Check the LPG pressure. It should be 11 to 13 inches of water column pressure.

If everything is ok, with the thermostat turned wide open, you should see an improvement in the flame. You should also be able to hear the flame roar slightly.

Your reefer should now cool properly, as long as the freezer plate is level.

If not, then it's time to think about a replacement reefer.

The above suggestion, costs nothing, but it might save you hundreds.

Andy
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Old 09-28-2005, 02:40 PM   #21
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Andy,

Thank you. I will try that. By orifice you mean the gas orifice? I am confident the gas pressure is high enough based only on flame length, color if the fridge flame and the simple fact that all other appliances work well AND lastly because I bought my regulator from you so I know it works right!
I did thoroughly blow out every conceivable part with compressed air including the burner. I am confident that it is clear and clean. But the other stuff I did not try.
there is one more factor that necessitates the replacement - my darling wife. She is adamant that it be replaced and I will not argue with that. But I can prolong that expense perhaps by taking your steps. Plus it gives me a chance to document the inspection/cleaning process for others before we replace - which we will.
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Old 09-28-2005, 02:56 PM   #22
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The oriface is at the bottom of the burner. The base that holds them, must be removed so that you can get all the rust particles out of it.

When you finish the reassembly, fire up the burner. You should hear it make a slight roaring sound. If so, it's doing it's job.

If the reefer freezer plate is level, the reefer should work.

If not, then I guess the wifes instructions will have to be implemented.

As they say someplace (I don't remember where), don't aggravated the female camping partner, unless you like to like to camp alone.

Andy
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Old 09-28-2005, 09:20 PM   #23
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Is there a way for the individual to check the lp pressure?
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Old 09-29-2005, 12:41 AM   #24
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John, you need a simple device called a "manometer". This link tells you how to make your own:
http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/manometer.html
Also if you enter "manometer" in the search field at the top of the page, you will get 11 threads which describe the use of manometers in Airstream trailers.
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Old 09-29-2005, 08:32 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buttercup
IThe trailer was parked on the slope part of the driveway and it was more than enough to make things not work.
In any event, we are going to replace our unit because it just doesn't work well and I suspect that it needs a charge of ammonia or may be partly plugged.
Keep in mind that operating off level not only keeps the fridge from operating properly, but can cause damage since the boiling liquids cannot flow properly and will leave deposits that plug things up.

Jack
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Old 09-29-2005, 09:41 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
Keep in mind that operating off level not only keeps the fridge from operating properly, but can cause damage since the boiling liquids cannot flow properly and will leave deposits that plug things up.

Jack
It would be a real bummer to have to replace the unit now because it was damaged!!
Oh well, I'll break the bad news to my wife - I know how heartbroken she will be to have to replace that! (can you hear the sarcasm?).
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Old 09-30-2005, 01:52 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Buttercup.

Before you replace your reefer, you might try another repair.

Cleaning and blowing out the flue really doesn't do much ggod.

What does make a huge difference, is the condition of the flame. Take the burner apart. Clean out the rust particles form the burner base. Soak the oriface in "Lime-away" for about a day. Reassemble the burner and then check the flame, at night is preferred. Check the LPG pressure. It should be 11 to 13 inches of water column pressure.

If everything is ok, with the thermostat turned wide open, you should see an improvement in the flame. You should also be able to hear the flame roar slightly.

Your reefer should now cool properly, as long as the freezer plate is level.

If not, then it's time to think about a replacement reefer.

The above suggestion, costs nothing, but it might save you hundreds.

Andy
I have similar symtoms. What would account for inferior performance both on gas and elec?

JMG
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Old 09-30-2005, 02:32 PM   #28
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Not what you want to hear.

Your reefer has a bad cooling unit.

All that you can do is replace the cooling unit, or replace the reefer.

Burping the reefer, doesn't help anything, except to give you exercise, and adding to your list of unprintable words.

Andy
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