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Old 08-23-2011, 04:00 PM   #29
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R2DTube,
I read your post about adjusting the gas regulator. How did you do that and are you talking about the regulator at th propane tanks ? I have a pressure guage that is installed inline on my fridge and it is on 9 in with no appliances on so it is not up to par and needs increasing.
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:11 PM   #30
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R2DTube,
I read your post about adjusting the gas regulator. How did you do that and are you talking about the regulator at th propane tanks ? I have a pressure guage that is installed inline on my fridge and it is on 9 in with no appliances on so it is not up to par and needs increasing.
Adjust the regulator at the tanks with an Allen wrench. Pop off the outer white cover if there is one. Then take out the black plug underneath. Beneath the black plug, there is a screw that takes a fairly large Allen wrench. Turn in (clockwise) to increase the pressure. It will take a number of turns since the thread is very fine. You want 11" of pressure with 1/2 the flow. I light two burners on the stove to get the additional flow.
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:15 PM   #31
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Outer white cover - on the tanks? or on the regulator? I also have tested mine and see a significant pressure drop.
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:29 PM   #32
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Thanks Pahaska. Will Do.
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:24 PM   #33
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Pahaska,
I looked at my regulator and it does not have a allen screw but has a plastic screw type plug with a spring behind it. So I adjusted it clockwise all the way and achieved 10 in and that is the max for it but that is better than 8.5 in with the fridge and two burners on. Would I need a new regulator ?
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:34 PM   #34
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I had a similar issue on my old SOB. Improper installation and all. I had what everybody else talks about above re. high temps around the fridge inside the cabinet, etc. I utilized fans...etc. Won't bore you with all the details.

What I finally did was remove the thermistor from the fins and mount it to the wall of the interior of the fridge. It worked. I theorize that, although the fins were getting cold enough and subsequently shutting off the gas and/or electric element, there was enough heat getting into the box from the cabinet compartment, that the bulk of the fridge interior was never cooling down.

In other words the thermistor mounted on the fins was cycling the heating element on and off with a "false" cold reading from direct contact with the fins.

I would suggest trying relocating the thermistor away from the fins, and thus "faking out" the board.

BTW, I also mounted two small 1" computer fans on the INTERIOR fridge fins.

None of this, with the exception of a rear compartment fan has been necessary with my AS. I load it as I please and it always stays 38 - 43 degrees.
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:50 PM   #35
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Outer white cover - on the tanks? or on the regulator? I also have tested mine and see a significant pressure drop.
On the regulator. It just snaps on loosely.
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:54 PM   #36
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Pahaska,
I looked at my regulator and it does not have a allen screw but has a plastic screw type plug with a spring behind it. So I adjusted it clockwise all the way and achieved 10 in and that is the max for it but that is better than 8.5 in with the fridge and two burners on. Would I need a new regulator ?
You may have a different brand regulator. On mine, I had to take out the black plug and the spring. Behind that is the thing that turns with the Allen wrench to regulate the pressure. It is hard to see. I think the spring on mine is just to prevent vibration from changing the regulation.
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:10 PM   #37
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thanks for all the info

Have been lurking around and have found all you advice to be invaluable. I taped two nickels to the inside of the freezer door when the freezer was extremely cold and I wanted the frig to be colder....seemed to work ..how do I know if I need a Synder fan and are they hard to find ? Thanks
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:27 PM   #38
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Flue Baffle

R2DTube,
I had the exact same problems that you did and Pahaska and I were active on one of his threads with the same issue...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...gas-78650.html

One thing that hasn't been mentioned here is that when I pulled my refrigerator to install the Snyder Refrigeration fan kit, I discovered that I had no flue baffle in the burner chimney. The flue baffle hangs in the chimney next to the boiler and has one or two cork-screw twists in it that prevents the heat from going up the chimney too fast. Everybody is of the opinion that every gas electric amonia absorption refrigerator should have a flue baffle. I ordered one for my model Dometic, but have not put it in yet because my issue seems to have been solved by adjusting the LP pressure and adding the Snyder fan kit. But I will probably install it next season or when I get up the gumption to pulll the refrigerator again.

So the next time you have yours out look to see if there's a flue baffle hanging in the chimney. If it isn't there you may want to add one to increase the efficiency of the refrigerator.
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:33 PM   #39
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R2DTube,
I had the exact same problems that you did and Pahaska and I were active on one of his threads with the same issue...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...gas-78650.html

One thing that hasn't been mentioned here is that when I pulled my refrigerator to install the Snyder Refrigeration fan kit, I discovered that I had no flue baffle in the burner chimney. The flue baffle hangs in the chimney next to the boiler and has one or two cork-screw twists in it that prevents the heat from going up the chimney too fast. Everybody is of the opinion that every gas electric amonia absorption refrigerator should have a flue baffle. I ordered one for my model Dometic, but have not put it in yet because my issue seems to have been solved by adjusting the LP pressure and adding the Snyder fan kit. But I will probably install it next season or when I get up the gumption to pulll the refrigerator again.

So the next time you have yours out look to see if there's a flue baffle hanging in the chimney. If it isn't there you may want to add one to increase the efficiency of the refrigerator.

I completely forgot about that. The baffle makes a significant difference if it is missing. But a new unit? Why would someone remove it? .....OK, never mind.....worth a check.
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:37 PM   #40
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Official Dometic Response

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I completely forgot about that. The baffle makes a significant difference if it is missing. But a new unit? Why would someone remove it? .....OK, never mind.....worth a check.
dznf0g,
I contacted Dometic about the lack of a flue baffle and this was their response...

Quote:
Carl

No all fridges come with the flue baffle, it is an accessory because not all fridges need them. It primarily depends on the installation and layout of the coach itself.

If you are in need of any Dometic refrigerator or air conditioner or A& E awning parts you can call us at 1-800-544-4881 or purchase from any dealer or Camping World location.

If we can be of any future service do not hesitate to contact us. Thank you for choosing Dometic product lines.

Customer Support Center
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Old 08-23-2011, 06:44 PM   #41
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dznf0g,
I contacted Dometic about the lack of a flue baffle and this was their response...

So does yours have one. I believe yours is the newer version of the one I had in my old SOB. I can't remember the exact model number but it was a fully manual 6 Cubic Foot Dometic. It had a baffle. I don't think the cooling unit is any different...just not automatic in switch over nor ignition.

Check out my previous post on the movement of the thermistor. That was the final resolution...but that unit had a baffle as does my present fridge. I know, because I had to switch it out of my old cooling unit to my new cooling unit this spring when all the yellow stuff came out.

Are you the original owner and is this the original fridge/cooling unit?

Pull up a parts list for your model and see if it shows a baffle.
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Old 08-23-2011, 07:54 PM   #42
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Baffling

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So does yours have one. I believe yours is the newer version of the one I had in my old SOB. I can't remember the exact model number but it was a fully manual 6 Cubic Foot Dometic. It had a baffle. I don't think the cooling unit is any different...just not automatic in switch over nor ignition.

Check out my previous post on the movement of the thermistor. That was the final resolution...but that unit had a baffle as does my present fridge. I know, because I had to switch it out of my old cooling unit to my new cooling unit this spring when all the yellow stuff came out.

Are you the original owner and is this the original fridge/cooling unit?

Pull up a parts list for your model and see if it shows a baffle.
dznf0g,
I checked my thermistor resistance and moved it all over the place and it only ever seemed to make a negligible difference in the refrigerator compartment's temperature when running on 110 or gas.

Ye I am the original owner (the problem refrigerator is in our '06).

And I did find a parts list for my model and it shows a flue baffle. That's what prompted me to contact Dometic. I also sent an e-mail to Airstream asking why there was no baffle, but alas I received no reply from the mothership.
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