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Old 08-15-2011, 10:19 AM   #15
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Lightbulb

Brian, our fridge doesn't have a light in it.
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:52 AM   #16
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Right-on about a cooler being good for drinks and keeping the fridge closed.Part of the camping experience is reaching in for a cold one.
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Old 08-15-2011, 12:58 PM   #17
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Brian, our fridge doesn't have a light in it.
So much for my light bulb of an idea.
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Old 08-15-2011, 03:03 PM   #18
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Mr. Tube,A possible simple solution involving cold air flow may lower your fridge temperature. As you have stated,the freezer is ice cold. Cold air migrates from the top of the unit (freezer) to the bottom (fridge). See if you can open the freezer door a crack. This may allow circulation of freezer air to the warmer fridge. It's free,it's worth a shot. Carry on,Richie Rich.
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Old 08-15-2011, 03:06 PM   #19
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Brian, the lightbulb was a good idea and I thank you for it! But we ain't got one...

HOWEVER, there may be hope. Pahaska, thanks again for the idea to check LP pressure. I just did that, and guess what, it was at 7" of water column with both stove burners lit. I adjusted the propane regulator so now there's 11" of water column at the fridge burner. I've got really high hopes that this is going to do the trick. I'll come back with a report tomorrow. I'll also put the original Snyder fan back on.

In the meantime, thanks everybody for all the tips and advice!

Mr. Tube signing off for the day... gotta go to work.
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:17 PM   #20
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Time for burnt offerings to appease the Dometic Idol?

No, I don't mean burn the fridge.

I'm enjoying this one, I might as well add testing my water column this weekend also.
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:36 PM   #21
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Just a passing thought. RV refrigerators work best when the trailer is level, both fore and aft, and side to side. I did not see in the post where level was verified or suggested.
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:33 PM   #22
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Remove the burner and clean according to instructions and the problem will go away...for a few seasons. Alcohol swab and compressedair will do the trick!
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:14 PM   #23
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Just a passing thought. RV refrigerators work best when the trailer is level, both fore and aft, and side to side. I did not see in the post where level was verified or suggested.
With modern Dometics, if the trailer is level enough to be comfortable to live in, it is level enough. A Dometic rep told me that you could put one wheel up on a curb and the other in the street without materially bothering the refrigerator. Not true with old boxes.
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Old 08-16-2011, 01:44 PM   #24
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Thumbs up Success!!!

Pahaska, you are a gentleman and a scholar! Thank you for the tip to check the LP pressure. It worked! I measured yesterday and found I was at 7" of water column. I adjusted pressure to 11", let the fridge run overnight, and this morning it was 39 degrees! What a relief! You also mentioned that the stronger fan I added to the Snyder kit might be overkill, so I removed it and replaced it with the original fan that came with the kit. We'll see tomorrow if there's any change in temp. I'm happy to have the original fan back on because it's much quieter than the stronger new fan. One other thing you mentioned was to test on AC. I haven't been able to do that because we have no electricity at our storage facility. I'll try to test it next week when we're out camping with full hookups. (Is that REALLY camping?) At any rate, I thank you. I also thank you for that fantastic word, adiabatic! You're amazing.

You all might be wondering where I found a manometer so quickly. I actually made one using these instructions:
RV U Tube Manometer
It cost about $5 to make and took maybe 15 minutes. Couldn't have been easier. But PLEASE make sure you read and understand all about propane safety and electric safety if you decide to do it yourself.

KeithC, yes, the trailer has been dead level, but apparently it doesn't have to be. Just as long as the trailer is comfortable enough to live in, level-wise.

Drag'nwagon, I will absolutely try cleaning the burner. I've been thinking about how I might coax another few degrees of cold in the fridge, and maybe this will help. I'm not the most technically minded person, as I'm sure everyone has surmised from reading this thread, but I'm not scared to try. I'm feeling particularly fearless after my success with the pressure reading and adjustment. But there's no way I would have tried any of this without the sage advice from everyone here on the forums.

GCinSC2, yes, burnt offerings all around, but only if the propane is turned off!!

Thanks to everyone for all the great advice. It's nice to be a happy camper once again, this time with a cold fridge!

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Old 08-16-2011, 01:56 PM   #25
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Cleaning the orifice with alcohol is intended to remove the buildup of gunk that accumulates after long use of the box on propane. My understanding is that the buildup is largely the result of the odor-producing chemical added to the propane so that you are more likely to detect a leak. Your box is too new to have much of a buildup problem, especially since correcting the pressure got the box down below 40 degrees in summer weather. If I were you, I would hold off fooling with the burner.

When you camp and have it on AC, see if it goes to the same temperature. If it does, that is where the thermostat is telling it to go. If it is the same on AC, then a slight position adjustment to the thermocouple on the fins inside the refrigerator can fine tune the temperature on both propane and AC..
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Old 08-16-2011, 02:17 PM   #26
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I will HAPPILY hold off cleaning the burner. I've had enough fridge projects for a while!

I'll report back in a couple of weeks with the fridge temps on AC.
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Old 08-16-2011, 05:14 PM   #27
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Lettuce anyone?
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:42 PM   #28
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Good one, RR! My 39 degrees isn't quite there yet though for the elusive frozen lettuce...
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