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KeithC · 08-15-2011, 06:36 PM

Just a passing thought. RV refrigerators work best when the trailer is level, both fore and aft, and side to side. I did not see in the post where level was verified or suggested.

drag'nwagon · 08-15-2011, 07:33 PM

Remove the burner and clean according to instructions and the problem will go away...for a few seasons. Alcohol swab and compressedair will do the trick!

Pahaska · 08-15-2011, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeithC

Just a passing thought. RV refrigerators work best when the trailer is level, both fore and aft, and side to side. I did not see in the post where level was verified or suggested.

With modern Dometics, if the trailer is level enough to be comfortable to live in, it is level enough. A Dometic rep told me that you could put one wheel up on a curb and the other in the street without materially bothering the refrigerator. Not true with old boxes.

R2DTube · 08-16-2011, 12:44 PM

Pahaska, you are a gentleman and a scholar! Thank you for the tip to check the LP pressure. It worked! I measured yesterday and found I was at 7" of water column. I adjusted pressure to 11", let the fridge run overnight, and this morning it was 39 degrees! What a relief! You also mentioned that the stronger fan I added to the Snyder kit might be overkill, so I removed it and replaced it with the original fan that came with the kit. We'll see tomorrow if there's any change in temp. I'm happy to have the original fan back on because it's much quieter than the stronger new fan. One other thing you mentioned was to test on AC. I haven't been able to do that because we have no electricity at our storage facility. I'll try to test it next week when we're out camping with full hookups. (Is that REALLY camping?) At any rate, I thank you. I also thank you for that fantastic word, adiabatic! You're amazing.

You all might be wondering where I found a manometer so quickly. I actually made one using these instructions:
RV U Tube Manometer
It cost about $5 to make and took maybe 15 minutes. Couldn't have been easier. But PLEASE make sure you read and understand all about propane safety and electric safety if you decide to do it yourself.

KeithC, yes, the trailer has been dead level, but apparently it doesn't have to be. Just as long as the trailer is comfortable enough to live in, level-wise.

Drag'nwagon, I will absolutely try cleaning the burner. I've been thinking about how I might coax another few degrees of cold in the fridge, and maybe this will help. I'm not the most technically minded person, as I'm sure everyone has surmised from reading this thread, but I'm not scared to try. I'm feeling particularly fearless after my success with the pressure reading and adjustment. But there's no way I would have tried any of this without the sage advice from everyone here on the forums.

GCinSC2, yes, burnt offerings all around, but only if the propane is turned off!!

Thanks to everyone for all the great advice. It's nice to be a happy camper once again, this time with a cold fridge!

Pahaska · 08-16-2011, 12:56 PM

Cleaning the orifice with alcohol is intended to remove the buildup of gunk that accumulates after long use of the box on propane. My understanding is that the buildup is largely the result of the odor-producing chemical added to the propane so that you are more likely to detect a leak. Your box is too new to have much of a buildup problem, especially since correcting the pressure got the box down below 40 degrees in summer weather. If I were you, I would hold off fooling with the burner.

When you camp and have it on AC, see if it goes to the same temperature. If it does, that is where the thermostat is telling it to go. If it is the same on AC, then a slight position adjustment to the thermocouple on the fins inside the refrigerator can fine tune the temperature on both propane and AC..

R2DTube · 08-16-2011, 01:17 PM

I will HAPPILY hold off cleaning the burner. I've had enough fridge projects for a while!

I'll report back in a couple of weeks with the fridge temps on AC.

richie rich · 08-16-2011, 04:14 PM

Lettuce anyone?

R2DTube · 08-16-2011, 06:42 PM

Good one, RR! My 39 degrees isn't quite there yet though for the elusive frozen lettuce...

Davis · 08-23-2011, 03:00 PM

R2DTube,
I read your post about adjusting the gas regulator. How did you do that and are you talking about the regulator at th propane tanks ? I have a pressure guage that is installed inline on my fridge and it is on 9 in with no appliances on so it is not up to par and needs increasing.

Pahaska · 08-23-2011, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davis

R2DTube,
I read your post about adjusting the gas regulator. How did you do that and are you talking about the regulator at th propane tanks ? I have a pressure guage that is installed inline on my fridge and it is on 9 in with no appliances on so it is not up to par and needs increasing.

Adjust the regulator at the tanks with an Allen wrench. Pop off the outer white cover if there is one. Then take out the black plug underneath. Beneath the black plug, there is a screw that takes a fairly large Allen wrench. Turn in (clockwise) to increase the pressure. It will take a number of turns since the thread is very fine. You want 11" of pressure with 1/2 the flow. I light two burners on the stove to get the additional flow.

clancy_boy · 08-23-2011, 03:15 PM

Outer white cover - on the tanks? or on the regulator? I also have tested mine and see a significant pressure drop.

Davis · 08-23-2011, 03:29 PM

Thanks Pahaska. Will Do.

Davis · 08-23-2011, 04:24 PM

Pahaska,
I looked at my regulator and it does not have a allen screw but has a plastic screw type plug with a spring behind it. So I adjusted it clockwise all the way and achieved 10 in and that is the max for it but that is better than 8.5 in with the fridge and two burners on. Would I need a new regulator ?

dznf0g · 08-23-2011, 04:34 PM

I had a similar issue on my old SOB. Improper installation and all. I had what everybody else talks about above re. high temps around the fridge inside the cabinet, etc. I utilized fans...etc. Won't bore you with all the details.

What I finally did was remove the thermistor from the fins and mount it to the wall of the interior of the fridge. It worked. I theorize that, although the fins were getting cold enough and subsequently shutting off the gas and/or electric element, there was enough heat getting into the box from the cabinet compartment, that the bulk of the fridge interior was never cooling down.

In other words the thermistor mounted on the fins was cycling the heating element on and off with a "false" cold reading from direct contact with the fins.

I would suggest trying relocating the thermistor away from the fins, and thus "faking out" the board.

BTW, I also mounted two small 1" computer fans on the INTERIOR fridge fins.

None of this, with the exception of a rear compartment fan has been necessary with my AS. I load it as I please and it always stays 38 - 43 degrees.

Pahaska · 08-23-2011, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clancy_boy

Outer white cover - on the tanks? or on the regulator? I also have tested mine and see a significant pressure drop.

On the regulator. It just snaps on loosely.

Pahaska · 08-23-2011, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davis

Pahaska,
I looked at my regulator and it does not have a allen screw but has a plastic screw type plug with a spring behind it. So I adjusted it clockwise all the way and achieved 10 in and that is the max for it but that is better than 8.5 in with the fridge and two burners on. Would I need a new regulator ?

You may have a different brand regulator. On mine, I had to take out the black plug and the spring. Behind that is the thing that turns with the Allen wrench to regulate the pressure. It is hard to see. I think the spring on mine is just to prevent vibration from changing the regulation.

Beecavetx · 08-23-2011, 05:10 PM

Have been lurking around and have found all you advice to be invaluable. I taped two nickels to the inside of the freezer door when the freezer was extremely cold and I wanted the frig to be colder....seemed to work ..how do I know if I need a Synder fan and are they hard to find ? Thanks

DEITZ645 · 08-23-2011, 05:27 PM

R2DTube,
I had the exact same problems that you did and Pahaska and I were active on one of his threads with the same issue...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...gas-78650.html

One thing that hasn't been mentioned here is that when I pulled my refrigerator to install the Snyder Refrigeration fan kit, I discovered that I had no flue baffle in the burner chimney. The flue baffle hangs in the chimney next to the boiler and has one or two cork-screw twists in it that prevents the heat from going up the chimney too fast. Everybody is of the opinion that every gas electric amonia absorption refrigerator should have a flue baffle. I ordered one for my model Dometic, but have not put it in yet because my issue seems to have been solved by adjusting the LP pressure and adding the Snyder fan kit. But I will probably install it next season or when I get up the gumption to pulll the refrigerator again.

So the next time you have yours out look to see if there's a flue baffle hanging in the chimney. If it isn't there you may want to add one to increase the efficiency of the refrigerator.

dznf0g · 08-23-2011, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

R2DTube,
I had the exact same problems that you did and Pahaska and I were active on one of his threads with the same issue...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...gas-78650.html

One thing that hasn't been mentioned here is that when I pulled my refrigerator to install the Snyder Refrigeration fan kit, I discovered that I had no flue baffle in the burner chimney. The flue baffle hangs in the chimney next to the boiler and has one or two cork-screw twists in it that prevents the heat from going up the chimney too fast. Everybody is of the opinion that every gas electric amonia absorption refrigerator should have a flue baffle. I ordered one for my model Dometic, but have not put it in yet because my issue seems to have been solved by adjusting the LP pressure and adding the Snyder fan kit. But I will probably install it next season or when I get up the gumption to pulll the refrigerator again.

So the next time you have yours out look to see if there's a flue baffle hanging in the chimney. If it isn't there you may want to add one to increase the efficiency of the refrigerator.

I completely forgot about that. The baffle makes a significant difference if it is missing. But a new unit? Why would someone remove it? .....OK, never mind.....worth a check.

DEITZ645 · 08-23-2011, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I completely forgot about that. The baffle makes a significant difference if it is missing. But a new unit? Why would someone remove it? .....OK, never mind.....worth a check.

dznf0g,
I contacted Dometic about the lack of a flue baffle and this was their response...

Quote:

Carl

No all fridges come with the flue baffle, it is an accessory because not all fridges need them. It primarily depends on the installation and layout of the coach itself.

If you are in need of any Dometic refrigerator or air conditioner or A& E awning parts you can call us at 1-800-544-4881 or purchase from any dealer or Camping World location.

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