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Old 03-20-2004, 04:37 PM   #15
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Now that all the propane units and lines have been pulled out and put away, with a couple of 80+degrees breezy days (This IS Texas) I can now go near the trailer without having a major relapse.

A. It confirms what propane can do to me, and convinced me that I certainly like breathing, even if it's just a little.

B makes me really scared to be alone in an RV park with all that propane around, or even with someone else with me.

C I am feeling overwhelmed right now. The guys are working on getting all the pink insulation out and the black goo that's toxic 40 years later.

D. the floor is rotten and needs to be dealt with and we are losing our major muscle back to college tomorrow. We need new tanks.

E. John doesnt want to put the monocouque (sp?) fiberglass one piece ends back in. It took 3 with major effort to take them out.He doesnt buy the reason that it needs the end forms for integral integrity. and what can I do with a mech engineer who has been designing peterbilt trucks for 30 years??? He is being a major mule about this. How can I convince them they are necessary?

F I want a herd of pink plastic flamingos now. It keeps my mind off everything else silver suz

G I may be better off getting a freezer and a seperate refer. Same price, more freezer space, but more weight.
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Old 03-20-2004, 04:49 PM   #16
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Re: Electric or Gas/Electric Refrigerator Replacement??

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Originally posted by overlander64
the trailer made its way to Ace Fogdall RV for a new 3-Way Dometic Refrigerator.
Kevin [/B]
Hi Kevin,

What's the model number on that Dometic fridge? I think we need the same one.

thanks,

Grant
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Old 03-20-2004, 05:07 PM   #17
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I'm not an engineer, but I gotta believe the interior end caps give some diagonal support assitance to the external one. I don't know how else you're going to finish the compound curved interior aesthetically without them.

I don't believe you can stack Sun Frost units. Their cooling unit is on top and should be unobstructed. An RF16 is both a little cheaper and a little lighter than separate 4 cu ft refrigerator and 4 cu ft freezer. It does use a little more power than the two separates, but offers twice the interior capacity.
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Old 03-20-2004, 05:12 PM   #18
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sun frosts and end caps

Yes, I guess I really want the rf -16. and I'll get the caps back on by hook or by crook. I'll go out and check on the work now.
Thanks, silver suz. P.S. Real goods is supposed to be figureing out a solar pkge for me. I have to measure the available roof space.

silver suz
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Old 03-21-2004, 12:46 PM   #19
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Electric or Gas electric fridge replacement??

Greetings Grant!

Quote:
What's the model number on that Dometic fridge? I think we need the same one.
I checked the materials that I haven't yet packed for the move, and the refrigerator information is either with the Overlander (400 miles South of here) or have already been packed. I checked the Dometic web site and was able to verify that it is the Americana Series and either model number RM2551 or RM2554. The information on the web isn't complete regarding the fuel method and I believe one it a 2-way and the other is the 3-way model. You can view the pdf information on these refrigerators at:

Dometic Americana Series Refrigerators (RV)

The one thing that I can verify is that the refrigerator is very marginally wider than the original (requires enlarging the opening by a generous 1/4"), and is somewhat taller than the original (requires enlarging the opening height by about 1.25"). The solution on my coach was to remove the drawer above the refigerator to gain the extra height without raising the TV shelf which would have meant that my current TV would no longer fit on the shelf. It would be possible to raise the drawer unit by making a new side panel for the refrigerator cabinet but the trade-off is a significant loss in room for a Television on the counter above the refrigerator. This may not be true of all Overlanders, but appears to be common to the '63 and '64 models.

Even with the required modifications, I would not consider changing my decision in any way. The refrigerator has met my every requirement and is miles ahead of the original Dometic as well as the original Dometic in my '78 Minuet.

Kevin
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Old 03-21-2004, 01:30 PM   #20
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sun frost frigerator

Does anyone have a sun Frost refrigerator? They are super insulated and superefficient made to run on solar or 12 volt. Does anyone have any experience with these? Especially the RF-16?

silver suz
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Old 03-21-2004, 03:12 PM   #21
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Re: Electric or Gas electric fridge replacement??

Quote:
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Greetings Grant!

The one thing that I can verify is that the refrigerator is very marginally wider than the original (requires enlarging the opening by a generous 1/4"), and is somewhat taller than the original (requires enlarging the opening height by about 1.25").
Kevin
Thanks Kevin.
It sounds like our trailers had different fridges as original equipment. The fridge opening is 21.75" wide and 40.25" high. Our fridge is on the street side and has no drawer above it.

Grant
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Old 03-21-2004, 03:52 PM   #22
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Electric or Gas electric fridge replacement??

Greetings Grant!

Quote:
It sounds like our trailers had different fridges as original equipment. The fridge opening is 21.75" wide and 40.25" high. Our fridge is on the street side and has no drawer above it.
I hadn't thought about the potential for differences. You must have the center Double rather than the center Twins as I have. Your drawers are likely on the curbside in the cabinet next to the door. In the center Twin, there isn't a separate drawer cabinet - - just the one drawer above the refrigerator in the original configuration. According to the '64 Airstream brochure, you have much more generous kitchen storage in your floorplan than I have in mine. According to the brochure, the refrigerator was the same for both floorplans (5.5 cubic foot Dometic 2-Way - - Model M52 (?)) - - slightly different mounting arrangements. My coach is actually on either its third or fourth refrigerator - - the third that I am certain of - - it still had its original Dometic in 1979.

Good luck with your refrigerator selection!

Kevin
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Old 03-21-2004, 04:09 PM   #23
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If you want to stay away from the propane you could get a Norcold Marine unit. It is a compressor based unit that will run on 12 VDC or 120VAC. It will be sized long the lines of what was in there, but I do not know if it needs additional ventilation like a propane one does.

I do not have one, but I know that the boaters like them since they need no Propane to run. I came across them when I was doing my search for replacement refers.

Good Luck
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Old 03-21-2004, 05:22 PM   #24
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These are the only Norcold compressor models I could find, and the 7 cu ft DE-0061 looks like the largest. Note that the URL to that page is named DE461.

The link to the "DE-461" on the marine page just takes you to the same page above where the frig is called the DE-0061.

Boaters World only wants $999 for it, plus $125 freight.
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Old 03-22-2004, 07:07 AM   #25
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Fridges

Haier makes an apartment size fridge that works well in the typical opening, 55" x 23", cost around 280 to 400 dollars.


It has very little draw and is very efficient.

I have successfully ran 120 volt apartment reefers in two Trailers. The trick is to place the inverter, 700 watt, right next to batteries and run 120 volt line to rear of refrigerator.

This is simply for transit operation. Your tow vehicle will provide enough charge to the batteries as you are running.

Dont be mistaken though, batteries will not last long stand alone.

We too prefer CG's with minimum electrical connection.

Many electrical engineers will argue the operability of this setup, but theory cannot outweigh actual results.

Smily
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Old 03-22-2004, 08:13 AM   #26
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Ron,

I like having the LP/AC option. In over 25 years of camping we have never used a 12 fridge. That is not to say they too don't do a good job, but we've found that the standard fridges out there that run on propane and 110v work extremely well for 99.9% of all situations you encounter when camping.

That said, RV fridges are very costly. That could be the reason a bunch of folks go with a standard compressor type fridge. My vote however would be to look into a reconditioned RV fridge that runs on either 110v or LP if the cost of a new one is out of budget. I would particularly go that way if you plan on doing a bunch of boondocking like we do. We go a bit over a week or so with the fridge running on LP gas. It actually works better on LP than on 110v.

Eric
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Old 03-22-2004, 10:50 AM   #27
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Ron, I agree that you should spring for an LP capable RV refrigerator. It's great when boondocking. Here's the large Dometic Airstream put in our 34'.

You can probably find it cheaper than Camping World's price.
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