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Old 09-07-2011, 06:34 PM   #15
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Another twist to this problem. My Dometic 2803 will light and stay lit for about 3 mins. Then it shuts down. The whole time the spark is going like it is trying to light the gas, which is burning strong. I assume it is the Thermocoupler. Great flame so I do not think a problem there.
Any thoughts, just got back from an 18 day trip and looked at it this afternoon.
Regards,
Joe
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:03 PM   #16
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Never did have a problem keeping that ice chest lit,did ya?
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:04 AM   #17
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Smile Dometic frig

A spider could have gotten in the line and spun its web. We experienced the same thing with our frig at the beginning of the summer. Ours 2005 28ft CCD hadn't been used for almost 2 years. We took it to Canada and drove 3600 miles. We were gone for 3 weeks and it worked perfect. It is still functioning with no problems. Hopefully you will have the same experience with yours, but I understand the worry.

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Old 09-08-2011, 12:35 AM   #18
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@AirHeadsRus - Thermocoupler is most likely your issue as the igniter is not getting the message that the flame is lit and shuts down the solenoid.
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:36 AM   #19
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thermocouple vs. flame sensor

a gas appliance (furnace, water heater, refrigerator, oven) with a standing pilot commonly uses a thermocouple.

a gas appliance (furnace, water heater, refrigerator, oven) with an electronic ignition commonly uses a flame sensor.

they do essentially the same thing for the appliance, sense when the burner is properly lit, and keep the gas valve open until whatever thermostatic device or temperature limit says it's hot enough for now....

your "newer" appliances will tend to have electronic ignition.

the ideas discussed here apply to more than just furnaces - Thermocouple & Flame Sensor Troubleshooting - Step by step w/ VIDEOS

best,
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:34 PM   #20
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After cleaning and blowing out the gas orifice, the refrigerator still would not light. The next step was to replace the igniter wire and probe. That did the trick, now it fires up in the first ignition cycle. One problem down and now on to the next... an intermittent leak at the city water inlet, but that is a topic for a different thread! Many thanks for all of the replys, leads, and suggestions.
Well.... Looks like there may be more to our problem than a bad electrode. We were getting ready for a weekend trip and the fridge still won't start on gas. I ran the ignition cycle 8 or 9 times and it just wouldn't ignite. I know there is propane in the tanks because I ran the gas burners to bleed the gas lines prior to starting the fridge. Taking it to the local dealer instead of camping this weekend. We will be leaving on a two week trip up to Washington State and back at the end of August and don't want to have problems with it while on the road. Hope this does the trick.
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:26 PM   #21
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Maybe a bad solenoid.
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:01 PM   #22
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Frustrating refrigerator

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Originally Posted by dpe01 View Post
@AirHeadsRus - Thermocoupler is most likely your issue as the igniter is not getting the message that the flame is lit and shuts down the solenoid.

OK, I installed a new Thermocouple, cleaned the burner and tip for gas. It still will light, run about three mins and shut down. The whole time it is sparking like it does not know it is lit. All the trouble shooting guides say Thermocouple, but I installed a bran new one and still have the problem. The tip glows red so I know it is getting hot.
It is a Dometic model 2803 probably original in 1990. The local AS dealer says it is way past lifetime most parts are really expensive. New ones he said last about 5 to 10 years. Anybody got any suggestions as to a low cost quick fix.
Is it time to replace? If so, what should I put in?
Attached is a picture of the flame. Does it look normal?
Thanks for looking,
Joe
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:29 PM   #23
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dometic

i had the same problem. i think that you need a new control board.
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:32 AM   #24
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Joe

I feel your pain. I am dealing with an intermittent problem on my rm2500 that is real tough to troubleshoot. The fact that you have to disassemble the cabinet and then disconnect and remove the refer just to work on it makes it real tough.

In addition to the "operating and installation" manual posted by dpi, the "Dometic manual refrigerator diagnostic service manual" at the following link may help you.

http://webspace.webring.com/people/j...ice_Manual.pdf

Dan
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:59 AM   #25
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OK, I installed a new Thermocouple, cleaned the burner and tip for gas. It still will light, run about three mins and shut down. The whole time it is sparking like it does not know it is lit. All the trouble shooting guides say Thermocouple, but I installed a bran new one and still have the problem. The tip glows red so I know it is getting hot.
It is a Dometic model 2803 probably original in 1990. The local AS dealer says it is way past lifetime most parts are really expensive. New ones he said last about 5 to 10 years. Anybody got any suggestions as to a low cost quick fix.
Is it time to replace? If so, what should I put in?
Attached is a picture of the flame. Does it look normal?
Thanks for looking,
Joe
Joe.

The flame looks good.

But, the thermocouple needs to be bent a little so that more of it is "DIRECTLY" in the flame.

If that doesn't cure the issue, then the most likely problem, is the thermocouple itself, and should be replaced.

Also, make sure the thermocouple is "VERY FIRMLY" screwed into the thermostat. It must be very tight.

Andy
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:09 PM   #26
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Well.... Looks like there may be more to our problem than a bad electrode. We were getting ready for a weekend trip and the fridge still won't start on gas. I ran the ignition cycle 8 or 9 times and it just wouldn't ignite. I know there is propane in the tanks because I ran the gas burners to bleed the gas lines prior to starting the fridge. Taking it to the local dealer instead of camping this weekend. We will be leaving on a two week trip up to Washington State and back at the end of August and don't want to have problems with it while on the road. Hope this does the trick.
Well that didn't do the trick

I took it back to the AS dealer and after verifying it wasn't lighting they determined the electrode just needed an adjustment. After turning everything off and letting it sit and cool off, they tried the ignition cycle and it started right up. We got to go camping that weekend and everything worked just like it was suppose to.

Fast forward to today... We are cleaning and packing the AS this weekend in preparation for our first long distant trip to Vancouver WA for my in-laws 90th birthdays, then camping on our way back down the Oregon and Northern California coast. So... I decided to check the fridge and make sure it would start... Guess what... Yup, you probably guessed right.... It won't start, it just keeps cycling through the ignition cycle for ~5 minutes then the display alternates between flashing the number 60 and LP. I know how to disassemble the windscreen and cover to manually light the pilot, but should we really need to do that every time we want to use the fridge on gas? I wouldn't think so. Maybe the next step is to replace the circuit board. I welcome any comments or suggestions.
Thanks
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:34 AM   #27
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I had a somewhat similar situation with the original Dometic in our '74. It didn't work on gas when we bought the trailer. I attempted to make the un-educated fixes, but in the end I took it to a local RV repair shop. They diagnosed it as a bad board, but the old dometic has the board on the bottom of the fridge. He said it would be like $200 for the board and about the same in labor to remove the fridge to change it. So, I asked for a backwoods solution. He talked with his Dometic contact and he was instructed how to bypass the issue. So, he installed a switch and a circuit that I could manually turn off the igniter once the burner lit. So the process to light the fridge was set to gas, hold the purge valve, turn on igniter until I could hear it light, then turn off the igniter and release the purge button. All told it was $120. This worked great until the whole fridge died (ammonia leak) about 3 months later and then we replaced the whole thing. Point being that maybe there's a workaround that could get you by for a bit, it will just take someone willing to circumvent the system a bit to get you what you want.
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Old 09-30-2011, 12:09 PM   #28
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At tip for all..I have checked two electronic starting fridges that have this problem and owner was ready to junk them, the GAP between electrode and burner should be no more then 3/16 of a inch, actually I do 1/8. Too close the spark is weak, too far and no spark
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