Dometic working on propane, not electric-just one more mystery

[TG Twinkie]

Originally Posted by airsovereign

Thanks for replying! Yes I have it set to electric with the thermostat cranked to 7. The combiner box is where all the wires combine, as shown in the photo. I tested the voltage at the thermostat and got .4 volts. I tested the voltage at the switch and got 118v. Does everything look wired correctly? If the thermostat is bad would that be why there is no voltage at the heating element lead connections?

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

First check for voltage at terminals 1 and 2. If OK then
Terminals 1 and 4 then
Terminals 1 and 3. Let us know the results.
You might try disconnecting the terminals and cleaning them. Be sure the power is off.

Xxx

[airsovereign]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

First check for voltage at terminals 1 and 2. If OK then
Terminals 1 and 4 then
Terminals 1 and 3. Let us know the results.
You might try disconnecting the terminals and cleaning them. Be sure the power is off.

Voltage at 1 and 2 is 118v
voltage at 1 and 4 is .4v
voltage at 1 and 3 is 0.0

Thanks!

[TG Twinkie]

Either the switch is bad or not on.

[airsovereign]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Either the switch is bad or not on.

Do you mean the thermostat? When I put the leads on the wires coming out of the switch that's where I get 118 volts. The wires coming out of the thermostat give me a reading of .4 volts

[airsovereign]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Either the switch is bad or not on.

Also the knob you turn to electric inside the fridge, it goes 360 degrees. It feels like there is some resistance like it's turning something but should it go all the way around like that or should it stop somewhere?

[airsovereign]

Originally Posted by airsovereign

Also the knob you turn to electric inside the fridge, it goes 360 degrees. It feels like there is some resistance like it's turning something but should it go all the way around like that or should it stop somewhere?

And is there a way to turn the switch on from the backside of the refrigerator if it's for some reason not grabbing from the knob on the inside of the fridge? Thank you SO much for your help.

[airsovereign]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Either the switch is bad or not on.

I found where the switch connects to a white plastic piece that rotates when you turn it. It was stuck behind a piece of metal. I pulled it out to clear the metal shield it was stuck on and now I hear lots of liquid moving around, I think it's fixed!!! Thank you so much!! I'll report back in a few hours to confirm

[TG Twinkie]

When you look at the schematic. Follow the wire from terminal 2. It goes to the switch then terminal 4. If terminal 4 is hot the switch is OK.
The full rotation of the switch does not sound right.
Try removing the knob. If you can rotate it with pliers or screwdriver. It should only select between (gas) (off) ( electric) as I recall.

[TG Twinkie]

If terminal 4 is hot and terminal 3 is not. Check thermostat. There are 2 thermostats, one for gas and one for electric. Rotate the thermostat handle. A few times the contact may be hung up.

[airsovereign]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

If terminal 4 is hot and terminal 3 is not. Check thermostat. There are 2 thermostats, one for gas and one for electric. Rotate the thermostat handle. A few times the contact may be hung up.

Ok, so after running the unit for a couple of hours:

1. the heating element is working fine.
2. the condenser fins are warm and the fridge has warmed up to 55 degrees (ambient temp today is around 30 degrees F).
3. the freezer is cold and the very bottom of the fridge is cool but the top of the fridge by the condenser fins is warm. is this normal? do i need to wait a little bit until the temps even out?
4. there is a slight chemical smell in the freezer (i'm guessing ammonia). this fridge hasn't been fired up in years. there are no leaks anywhere that i can see, does the ammonia smell mean the cooling system is broken?

thanks again in advance for contributing your wisdom!!

[TG Twinkie]

Ammonia smell is not good. It could take a full day to bring the temp down in the refer box especially if it is empty.
As I recall you said it worked on gas. Not sure if what you smell is nothing more than stuff burning off of the element.
Glad you were able to work your way thru it.

[airsovereign]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Ammonia smell is not good. It could take a full day to bring the temp down in the refer box especially if it is empty.
As I recall you said it worked on gas. Not sure if what you smell is nothing more than stuff burning off of the element.
Glad you were able to work your way thru it.

I think it's ammonia. I haven't actually gotten it to work on gas yet, I was troubleshooting the electric side first. That means I need a new cooling unit, doesn't it....

[TG Twinkie]

It does, but that old refer and the controls are not worth putting a new cooling unit on.
I doubt you will find anyone who would rebuild it.

[airsovereign]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

It does, but that old refer and the controls are not worth putting a new cooling unit on.
I doubt you will find anyone who would rebuild it.

Well from what I've read there isn't a replacement that is the same size, so I'd have to rip out my cabinetry around it to put in a new one, is that what you understand?

[TG Twinkie]

Some cabinet work would be required.
Look at the dimensions of the Dometic 2510.
Dometic website has a list of models and their closest replacement.
Hold on to your wallet. They are pricey.
Are you planning to travel? If not a dorm refer may work if you have shorepower.
Good Luck

[airsovereign]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Some cabinet work would be required.
Look at the dimensions of the Dometic 2510.
Dometic website has a list of models and their closest replacement.
Hold on to your wallet. They are pricey.
Are you planning to travel? If not a dorm refer may work if you have shorepower.
Good Luck

So after leaving the fridge on all night, I went out today and the ammonia smell is gone, however the freezer was SUPER HOT inside and the fridge was pretty warm as well. Remember it's freezing temperatures in Ohio right now and no heat source was on inside the trailer. Ideas? If I had an ammonia leak wouldn't I still smell it? And would the fridge get hot if all the ammonia was gone? I can hear liquid moving around like it's boiling in the fridge.

[TG Twinkie]

Someone with knowledge of the internal workings of the ammonia system will have to chime in here.

[Jim Lee]

When we re did our trailer in 2007, I messed with our dometic refrigerator for waaay too long. I even went so far as to buy a reconditioned box from a place in Conway AR....what a waste of money.

I ended up buying a new box from PPl's RV in texas...why them? best price and free shipping offer. It was about $1200.00

I should have done this first. I spent that much or more trying to get the old fridge working --which it never did.... I damn near burnt the trailer down messing with that reconditioned box.

http://bus-plunge.blogspot.com/2007/09/poof.html

[CBWELL]

After 42 years it is time to "retire" the old fridge. All you are doing is wasting a lot of time and energy trying to make it work. As mentioned in previous posts, replace with a new RV fridge if you are going to travel, or a 120v house style fridge if you are going to use the trailer as a stationary cottage. Been there, done that. Good luck, Chris

[n2916s]

You might want to consider replacing it with a Danfoss compressor equipped marine fridge. Run on 120vac or 12vdc. Extremely modest power requirements, not sensitive to being level. Vitrifrogo is a well known brand and there are others. No propane/flame, no need to precool for 24 hours and the freezer is colder making for better ice cream.

Waiting for my old Dometic to die and than plan to replace it with a Vitrifigo DP 2600