Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-17-2011, 09:37 AM   #15
New Member
 
1982 31' Excella
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 2
you guys are amazing with your snappy replies!

How about 29 yr old Dometic working on Gas and Elec but not on 12v? I have established, with the help of Wasagachris, that I only have 7 pin plug so I can understand why there is no direct 12v feed to the fridge from the car, but why is it not working on the 12v from the A/S itself, independent of the car? Your wisdom will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Anthony (Newbie)
__________________

__________________
afordjones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2011, 03:35 PM   #16
WBCCI 8562
 
Jim in Pima's Avatar
 
1975 31' Sovereign
Pelzer , South Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 225
Images: 5
HI
If you have a 3 way fridge, there is a 12 volt heater that fits in alongside
the 110V heater. This heater pulls up to 25 AMPS and needs a really hefty
12 Volt source. Pick up a cheap multimeter at radio shack or Home Depot,
unplug the shore electric, and turn on the 12V control, in the back of the unit
check and see if you truly have that, your manual, or get one online will
show the proper terminals. Then disconnect one terminal, and check the resistance of the heater, should almost show a short, but if a high reading it is burned out. I am going through this withmy fridge, found a number of sites on line that have the parts. PPL motor home among others
__________________

__________________
Jim in Pima Az, enjoying our 1975 31 ft Airstream Sovereign
Jim in Pima is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 10:03 AM   #17
Newbie
 
1975 31' Sovereign
Dublin , Ohio
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
@ Gosman:
Do you have the electric side thermostat set to at least 5? If so and it's not getting cold it could be the heating element.
First: Get your meter out and make sure there is power to the refer.
Second: With the refer in the electric mode and thermostat (electric) turn all the way to max. If I remember correctly the white cable (held down by a double screw clamp) is the 120 volt AC power to the refer, you can check for power at these terminals.
Third: Check the voltage at the terminals that power the heating element. In the photo I posted, the wires in the rust colored sheath are the heating element wires. You can see they are terminated on stab connectors. If you have 120 volts AC on these terminals, then the chances are good that the element is bad.
You will need to remove the sheetmetal cover(s) on the lower right rear of the refer; also remove the insulation. The heating element is located in a well, follow the wires. It just slides up out of the well.
Caution: Should you decide to remove the element, make sure you have the power OFF.
I know this is an old thread but I can't seem to find this answer ANYWHERE. you mention if the voltage is good at the terminals for the heating element that the element itself would be bad. What if there is no voltage at the terminals of the heating element? I removed it and it measures in the right ohm range (upper 40s) and has continuity. But after testing the voltage where the power cable hits the combiner box and it reads 114, why would I get a zero reading where the heating element leads connect to the combiner box? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
__________________
airsovereign is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 10:18 AM   #18
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,140
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Not sure what you mean by combiner box.
Have you selected the electric mode?
Have you set the thermostat to the highest setting?
Do you have power to the thermostat?
Can you post a pic of the back of the refer showing the terminals etc?
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 10:58 AM   #19
Newbie
 
1975 31' Sovereign
Dublin , Ohio
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Not sure what you mean by combiner box.
Have you selected the electric mode?
Have you set the thermostat to the highest setting?
Do you have power to the thermostat?
Can you post a pic of the back of the refer showing the terminals etc?
Thanks for replying! Yes I have it set to electric with the thermostat cranked to 7. The combiner box is where all the wires combine, as shown in the photo. I tested the voltage at the thermostat and got .4 volts. I tested the voltage at the switch and got 118v. Does everything look wired correctly? If the thermostat is bad would that be why there is no voltage at the heating element lead connections?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0840.jpg
Views:	22
Size:	264.4 KB
ID:	279130   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0839.jpg
Views:	21
Size:	269.0 KB
ID:	279131  

__________________
airsovereign is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 11:11 AM   #20
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,140
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Dometic working on propane, not electric-just one more mystery

First check for voltage at terminals 1 and 2. If OK then
Terminals 1 and 4 then
Terminals 1 and 3. Let us know the results.
You might try disconnecting the terminals and cleaning them. Be sure the power is off.
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 11:13 AM   #21
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,140
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by airsovereign View Post
Thanks for replying! Yes I have it set to electric with the thermostat cranked to 7. The combiner box is where all the wires combine, as shown in the photo. I tested the voltage at the thermostat and got .4 volts. I tested the voltage at the switch and got 118v. Does everything look wired correctly? If the thermostat is bad would that be why there is no voltage at the heating element lead connections?


Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
First check for voltage at terminals 1 and 2. If OK then
Terminals 1 and 4 then
Terminals 1 and 3. Let us know the results.
You might try disconnecting the terminals and cleaning them. Be sure the power is off.
Xxx
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 11:19 AM   #22
Newbie
 
1975 31' Sovereign
Dublin , Ohio
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
First check for voltage at terminals 1 and 2. If OK then
Terminals 1 and 4 then
Terminals 1 and 3. Let us know the results.
You might try disconnecting the terminals and cleaning them. Be sure the power is off.
Voltage at 1 and 2 is 118v
voltage at 1 and 4 is .4v
voltage at 1 and 3 is 0.0

Thanks!
__________________
airsovereign is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 11:23 AM   #23
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,140
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Either the switch is bad or not on.
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 11:28 AM   #24
Newbie
 
1975 31' Sovereign
Dublin , Ohio
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Either the switch is bad or not on.
Do you mean the thermostat? When I put the leads on the wires coming out of the switch that's where I get 118 volts. The wires coming out of the thermostat give me a reading of .4 volts
__________________
airsovereign is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 11:29 AM   #25
Newbie
 
1975 31' Sovereign
Dublin , Ohio
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Either the switch is bad or not on.
Also the knob you turn to electric inside the fridge, it goes 360 degrees. It feels like there is some resistance like it's turning something but should it go all the way around like that or should it stop somewhere?
__________________
airsovereign is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 11:31 AM   #26
Newbie
 
1975 31' Sovereign
Dublin , Ohio
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by airsovereign View Post
Also the knob you turn to electric inside the fridge, it goes 360 degrees. It feels like there is some resistance like it's turning something but should it go all the way around like that or should it stop somewhere?
And is there a way to turn the switch on from the backside of the refrigerator if it's for some reason not grabbing from the knob on the inside of the fridge? Thank you SO much for your help.
__________________
airsovereign is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 11:41 AM   #27
Newbie
 
1975 31' Sovereign
Dublin , Ohio
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Either the switch is bad or not on.
I found where the switch connects to a white plastic piece that rotates when you turn it. It was stuck behind a piece of metal. I pulled it out to clear the metal shield it was stuck on and now I hear lots of liquid moving around, I think it's fixed!!! Thank you so much!! I'll report back in a few hours to confirm
__________________
airsovereign is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 11:43 AM   #28
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,140
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
When you look at the schematic. Follow the wire from terminal 2. It goes to the switch then terminal 4. If terminal 4 is hot the switch is OK.
The full rotation of the switch does not sound right.
Try removing the knob. If you can rotate it with pliers or screwdriver. It should only select between (gas) (off) ( electric) as I recall.
__________________

__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
propane gas leak (rotten eggs) 2010 International stench wendywoods LP Gas, Piping, Tanks & Regulators 20 12-01-2011 03:34 PM
Dometic RM100 not working mmcpherson Refrigerators 21 04-28-2011 09:37 AM
Propane phobia. ROBERTSUNRUS LP Gas, Piping, Tanks & Regulators 18 04-27-2011 12:37 PM
Electric working with battery not with 110 TX_DB Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 11 04-24-2011 08:19 PM
New Electric Service - YAY!!! or Life is Better When Everything WORKS!!! bugnot1 Winter Living 6 01-23-2011 11:32 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.