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Old 08-15-2010, 02:12 PM   #1
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Dometic RM3762 Error code E1 help

Hello everybody, I'm having issues with my fridge, and of course it is packed with food. I'm getting the flashing E1 error code. It happens on both AC power and LP mode, though it runs and cools for almost 12hrs on the LP mode before it throws the code. Then once it throws the code in LP I must use the AC power mode for at least a couple hours before going back to LP or it will almost immediately throw the code in LP. AC power mode it will run about 30 minutes before throwing the code and I have to shut it off and back on to get another 30 minutes. Needless to say, this isnt ideal

The manual states the E1 code is a hardware fault. I am still under warranty, but it is a huge pain in the butt to take it in, so if I can fix it for less than $100 or so, its worth it to me to just do it myself.

Has anyone else in a late model trailer had this issue? What was the fix?

This is a Dometic RM3762 as found in a 2008 Safari SE 25FB.

Regards,
Brian
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:23 PM   #2
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We have exactly the same trailer, and I experienced a similar problem. But, I only saw the flashing code on LP....it was a result of the pilot light being blown out by passing trucks, and then trying to relight three times before failing. I solved it by cutting a home air conditioner filter to fit the mechanical door....the pilot light stays on and I have not experienced any cooling problems with the filter in place.

Not sure what is causing the fault code when you're connected to AC.....think I would make a call to Dometic.

Hope you resolve it soon. My last problem was due to "operator error." The fridge was packed, really packed, for the start of our recently completed 30 day adventure. I wanted to start with two full tanks of propane, so I filled one that wasn't completely empty. The fridge was on AC for a couple of days while we finished packing, and should have automatically changed over to LP when we left home. The problem was, I had not turned on the valve for the tank I had filled.....fridge worked until the gas ran out of the lines, and that was it. Our first stop was about five hours later, and when I looked at the fridge's temp indicator......there was my old friend....the blinking "E1." As soon as I checked the tanks, I realized what I had done.....but, by then the inside fridge temp was over 50 degrees, and it takes a long time to cool down when it's packed too tightly for air circulation. However, my refrigerator cooling concerns were soon replaced with body cooling concerns as I dealt with my Goodyear Marathon belt separation in the South Carolina afternoon heat....but, that's another story.

Ron
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Old 08-15-2010, 07:59 PM   #3
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Thanks Chief. I'm stationary, so I don't think the pilot light is blowing out. Its been working all day, but its been on LP. As soon as I switch it back to AC I'm sure it will throw the code after a half hour or so.

I called Airstream, and they said it would be covered under Dometic's warranty, and that I could take it to any Dometic dealer. I'm not too far from Toscano RV which is an authorized Airstream service center. I'll probably take it there if I can't figure this out.
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Old 08-17-2010, 06:28 PM   #4
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Beuller......Beuller.....

I KNOW there has to be someone who has experienced similar issues. Throw me a bone here.
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Old 09-09-2010, 11:58 AM   #5
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bueller......bueller......
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Old 09-09-2010, 02:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
I'm not too far from Toscano RV which is an authorized Airstream service center. I'll probably take it there if I can't figure this out.
They have a excellent reputation from AS people we've met down there.
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:43 PM   #7
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Dometics have a controler board usually located in the rear lower left side. This board is prone to this failure. It should only take about 30 minutes to change it and fix the problem
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Old 02-12-2011, 09:06 AM   #8
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Have you solved your E1 code problem? I have the exact problem and have discovered that if I disconnect the converter, the refrigerator works fine. It also works on the coldest setting(5), because it does not recycle on and off I think. I have had all of the parts replaced that can be replaced with no success. I have had 3 different repairmen look at it ($345 for labor). NO SUCCESS. I would really like a phone call or a phone number that I can call.

Don Schweikarth
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Old 02-13-2011, 07:26 AM   #9
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If you are getting the code only during the time the converter is running the most likely problem is with the voltage output of the converter. Too high or too low. A quick check with a mulit meter at the 12 volt terminals should confirm this. Also it could be a defective diode on the converter causing a "dirty" signal. These boards are very sensetive to the supply voltage
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:12 PM   #10
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E1

Changed out the conveter, but did not solve the problem. After about 20 hours with a clean ground, the e1 reappeared. Today I have wired both hot and ground directly to the battery. 6 hours and no problems. We will see what happens tomorrow.
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:40 PM   #11
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Use a quality multimeter on the VAC setting and put the probes on the 12VDC terminal block that feeds the refer. If you are getting ANY VAC you have a problem. Also, you can check the VDC for 'ripple', which the control boards in modern RV components do not appreciate.

What type of converter are you using? I might suggest an IOTA DLS-IQ4 unit. They seem to have a very clean output and I have yet to see any electrical problems from them.
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Old 02-14-2011, 05:50 AM   #12
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I am a new member and still not a trusted to contact individuals. Would someone contact Airstream1 for me and have him contact me asap. I really need to know how he solved his e1 code problem.

Thanks
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Old 02-14-2011, 08:25 AM   #13
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Per Dometic:

The E1 code is a hardware fault usually related to the LP valve or LP delivery system.

Check the operation of your gas valve at the back of the fridge, be sure that your ground connections are clean and secure and check the LP pressure at the fridge. It should be 11" water gauge with 50% of the LP appliances operating.
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Old 02-14-2011, 03:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
Per Dometic:

The E1 code is a hardware fault usually related to the LP valve or LP delivery system.

Check the operation of your gas valve at the back of the fridge, be sure that your ground connections are clean and secure and check the LP pressure at the fridge. It should be 11" water gauge with 50% of the LP appliances operating.
If it were that easy, it would be fixed. Evidently an E1 code is also caused by something else. It happens in both AC& LP mode. I have found at least 3 others with the same problem. You can't imagine how frustrating it is. Currently I'm working directly off the post for AC & straight from the battery for DC. HAs worked for about 3 hours now. The converter has been unplugged in case it is the problem.
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