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Old 07-24-2008, 02:06 PM   #1
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Dometic RM2611 Recurring Check Light

Hi all,
Picked up a used unit. Cools down real nice and fast no problem(running on gas!!). After it cools down though(usually same day), the check light comes on and no more cooling. You can cycle the power and limp for a few days but eventually it won't work.

A recent long weekend I was able to survive for about 3 days by checking it every few hours and cycling power but by Sunday, the check light would come on almost immediately.

I don't believe it's the flame system. When it's running, I can sit there and blow out the flame repeatedly and it relights immediately. The one time I was standing at the access panel when it failed, the flame was on and it didn't try to respark or anything, it just shut down. When it did shut down, there was a noticeable "click".

I'm guessing a sensor is tripping but I don't know which one. There was a special pamphlet that came with the unit that was titled something like "what to do about recurring check-light" but somehow between packing for a trip and such, I misplaced it. I know it's around here but if anyone knows where there might be one online, please let me know.

I have multi-meter and such. Is there a way to test which sensor caused the shutdown?

I have the unit half-way pulled out so I can see up the back of it. It doesn't look dirty or anything. I'm going to fire it up this afternoon to see if it's freezing up ice on the back or something.

So many questions...very few clues.
JB
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Old 07-24-2008, 02:24 PM   #2
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My first guess is the igniter may be just a bit too far from the burner to spark and light the flame. That is a physical reason. Try moving the tip of the igniter a bit closer. Once the burner has been on for a period of time the physical dimensions in the burner area may have increased to the point that the igniter can't jump the gap.

A weak igniter coil could also be the problem.

I think the reason you can blow the flame out and it come right back on is the gas is ignited by the heat still in the burner rather than the igniter sparking
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:36 PM   #3
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Boy I really don't think it's either the igniter or the flame sensor. When it's hot and I blow it out, the igniter clearly sparks like I would expect.
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:47 PM   #4
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At the back of your Ref. is there a gas pressure gage? If yes it should read 11. While the flame is on and you are watching it have someone turn on all the burners on the stove and the gas to the hot water heater. The gas pressure should remain the same. If low gas pressure shuts it down check the regulator on your bottles.
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Old 07-24-2008, 05:23 PM   #5
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No, no gauge. I did try turning on other gas appliances and it had no affect on the fridge. I tried things like turning off the gas while the fridge was burning and the igniter clicked until I turned the gas back on. I doubt that it's a gas supply problem.

In the service manual, here are the possible causes with my notes:

DC Volts- Tested 12.1 V
Wiring - ??
LP Gas - Seems to be plenty of gas
Manual Gas Valve - burns for quite a while before shutting off suddenly
Solenoid - Possibly faulty and shutting down on me?
Orifice - Again, burns really well for long time.
Burner - same.
Lower Circuit Board - I've seem some googlage that suggests there were some faulty units out there and to replace with aftermarket.
Thermocouple - If faulty, I'd expect the igniter to spark.

Just throwing out ideas.
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Old 07-24-2008, 05:46 PM   #6
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We had a problem with our Dometic a couple of years ago. It was like it was haunted. It would flip from elec to gas, turn off whenever it decided. After talking with some folks they said it sounded like we had a lightning strike close to the trailer and it took out the control board. I replaced the board with a "dinosaur' board and have not had a problem since. After thinking back we did have a strike within a few yards of the trailer.
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Old 07-24-2008, 06:43 PM   #7
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Since it will work for some time and then shut off the gas but continue to ignite I would remove and reinstall all the connectors relating to the gas valve. Do this at each end of each wire to insure there is a good clean connection.

Next time it fails try and read the voltage at the gas valve to make sure it is being commanded to open. If you see voltage at the gas valve try to light the burner with a match even if the igniter is clicking. If it lights look closely at just where the spark is contacting the burner to make sure it is close to one of the burner holes and not just striking the burner body removed from the gas.
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Old 07-24-2008, 07:11 PM   #8
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I've been having a similar experience with my Dometic RM2607 for over a year although it doesn't flash the Check light as often. I can have it on at home and it will stay on for months but when I go on a trip, it will work fie for the first couple of days and then it will stop working. I was told by an RV tech. that I need a new fridge and I just can't bring myself to buy a new one at the current prices they're running. Maybe I'll try the new circuit board route.

Brad
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Old 07-24-2008, 10:14 PM   #9
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I found this on a google search;

I have a 1995 National RV with a Dometic RM2611 I changed the motherboard out with a Dinosaur Electronics Micro P-711 which solved my check light problem and the worked nicely. I took the MH up to Canada for 3 weeks, and the kept things frozen, and the refrigerator kept things nice and cold

Might be the board!!!!

Garry
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Old 07-24-2008, 10:22 PM   #10
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Thanks for the info Garry. Do you have any contact info for the company you got yours from? I doubt its the same one for the RM2607 but maybe.

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Old 07-27-2008, 07:52 PM   #11
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Sorry I haven't had the problem (yet) I was looking for a Dometic manual from one of my old bookmarks & the site no longer exist. I should have downloaded when I had the chance.

The quote I put in was from a google search on another problem and just came across it. Sounded like it could help the OP so I copied & paste.

Lots of folks sell the Dino boards do a google search on the RM2607 and they will pop up.

Garry
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Old 07-27-2008, 08:15 PM   #12
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Similar Problem

I had the same problem with our Dometic Fridge. I think ours is an S1631, I forget now. The Dinosaur Electronics Micro P-711 is the one that fits ours too and it solved the problem. I spent a lot of time doing voltage tests etc. and ended up replacing the board. I found one at an online site for about $100. Worked for me.
cheers, bill b.
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:50 AM   #13
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I think I'm going to order a board for it. I figure $100 won't even get me in the door at the rv repair place.

This line is from the product description: "Improved thermocouple circuit to eliminate recurring check light problem."

I'm thinking the problem is circuit related.

MICRO P-711 : A.S.A.P.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll post again after I replace the board.

JB
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Old 08-07-2008, 03:57 PM   #14
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Thumbs up

As promised, I'm following up on this. It appears for now that replacing the board did the trick. Hopefully it will keep working as we are headed to the Northwoods next weekend.

Replacing the board was not too difficult but I recommend mapping out the wires from the old board and where they went to originally. This helped map them to the new board.

cheers
JB
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