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08-12-2008, 12:03 AM
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#21
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4 Rivet Member
2005 25' International CCD
1960 18' "Footer"
1959 26' Overlander
Riverside
, California
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfshr
Thanks for the info Garry. Do you have any contact info for the company you got yours from? I doubt its the same one for the RM2607 but maybe.
Brad
FF
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Brad, Best Converter sells them, check the following link.
Dinosaur Electronics
__________________
Don (KD6UVT) & Gail Williams
What do you want to be in life, a spectator or a participant?
SNU #157
FCU #004
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08-12-2008, 07:46 AM
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#22
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Vintage Alum. Enthusiast
1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: I currently do not own a 2nd Airstream
Posts: 4,360
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Already ordered one. Should be here Friday so I have some unrelated work to do while the fridge is out like I would love to add an aluminum vented panel to allow the fridge to breathe better. I know where is one, just gotta get the guy to all me back. Of course, it will need polishing before installing.
Brad
FF
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1
I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
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08-20-2008, 10:44 AM
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#23
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 75
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The fridge worked great on our trip up North last weekend. I did get a few "check" lights but only while traveling and frankly, I don't understand how that thing is supposed to stay lit while traveling down the road at 70 mpg.
While parked, it had no problems whatsoever.
fyi.
jb
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NFL Owner
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08-20-2008, 11:25 AM
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#24
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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Alternate test re: Check light
OK guys,
You've been doing good tracking down your check light problems, especially those related to the board. HOWEVER..........there are other problems which might be causing your check light to go on.
Specifically, those that deal with ripple or 'dirty' DC current reaching the fridge. This type of 'bad DC' will wreak havoc with your PC board AND cause the recurring check light problem!
The easiest way to test for this is to connect a separate 12VDC source (like another battery) directly to the 12VDC input at the back of the fridge. If you still have the check light problem when connected to a dedicated, independent 12VDC source, then it is most definitely your board. If the fridge then runs properly with no check light......you have a DC supply problem and have to look further into your power supply (converter) battery condition and what other types of components are connected to the same feed line that the fridge is on.
Let me know if you need more info on this 'phenomenon'.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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08-20-2008, 11:29 AM
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#25
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Vintage Alum. Enthusiast
1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: I currently do not own a 2nd Airstream
Posts: 4,360
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Thanks jb and Lew. I ordered the new Dino board but am going to wait to install it until after our Labor Day rally. I don't experience 'check' light problems while on 110AC and the campground has full hookups. I'll install it once it cools off some around here. Still hovering around 108 degrees lately.
Brad
FF
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1
I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
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09-13-2008, 07:26 PM
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#26
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TAC OH-17
1994 34' Limited
Upper Sandusky
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 94
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hey we are having similar problems just what is a dinosaur board, is it on the back of the refer or that censor board thats on the front w/ the check light? we are new to this thanks julie
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09-13-2008, 08:19 PM
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#27
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Vintage Alum. Enthusiast
1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: I currently do not own a 2nd Airstream
Posts: 4,360
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Check out posts #13 and 21 for where to get a Dinosaur Board and make sure it is the right one for your model of Dometic. I have not swapped mine out yet. Honey-do's keep getting in the way.
Brad
FF
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1
I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
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09-13-2008, 09:00 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
1984 31' Airstream310
Ajo
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,649
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09-13-2008, 10:14 PM
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#29
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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The Micro P-711 from Dinosaur is a military spec board as are all of the boards that Dinosaur makes, and it's less prone to the ripple DC sensitivities of the OEM Dometic board. I use Dino boards exclusively in all of my replacements.
Another thing you might want to check is the amount of AC current passing thru the rectifiers and riding along on your 12VDC feed into the refer's control board. Using a digital VOM, set it on the AC scale and apply the test leads to the 12VDC feed block at the back of the refer. If you get a noticeable VAC reading....you have conveter problems!!!!! The new Dino board will probably eliminate your check light problems, but you should have your converter checked or in some cases .......replaced!!
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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09-18-2008, 09:17 PM
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#30
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Rivet Master
1999 27' Safari
Kent
, Ohio
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 806
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My buddies fridge is doing the exact same thing. Have you replaced the mother board? and has it corrected the problem.
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04-01-2013, 08:42 AM
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#31
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 75
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Oy...here I am again 5 years later
Having the same problem that I had when I started this thread in 2008. It worked fine all that time but late last fall it started again and is a persistent problem now. I guess I'll get another board as I have sold the unit and buyer wants everything working.
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NFL Owner
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