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Old 08-12-2008, 12:03 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by flyfshr View Post
Thanks for the info Garry. Do you have any contact info for the company you got yours from? I doubt its the same one for the RM2607 but maybe.

Brad
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Brad, Best Converter sells them, check the following link.


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Old 08-12-2008, 07:46 AM   #22
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Already ordered one. Should be here Friday so I have some unrelated work to do while the fridge is out like I would love to add an aluminum vented panel to allow the fridge to breathe better. I know where is one, just gotta get the guy to all me back. Of course, it will need polishing before installing.

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Old 08-20-2008, 10:44 AM   #23
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The fridge worked great on our trip up North last weekend. I did get a few "check" lights but only while traveling and frankly, I don't understand how that thing is supposed to stay lit while traveling down the road at 70 mpg.

While parked, it had no problems whatsoever.

fyi.
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Old 08-20-2008, 11:25 AM   #24
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Alternate test re: Check light

OK guys,

You've been doing good tracking down your check light problems, especially those related to the board. HOWEVER..........there are other problems which might be causing your check light to go on.

Specifically, those that deal with ripple or 'dirty' DC current reaching the fridge. This type of 'bad DC' will wreak havoc with your PC board AND cause the recurring check light problem!

The easiest way to test for this is to connect a separate 12VDC source (like another battery) directly to the 12VDC input at the back of the fridge. If you still have the check light problem when connected to a dedicated, independent 12VDC source, then it is most definitely your board. If the fridge then runs properly with no check light......you have a DC supply problem and have to look further into your power supply (converter) battery condition and what other types of components are connected to the same feed line that the fridge is on.

Let me know if you need more info on this 'phenomenon'.
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Old 08-20-2008, 11:29 AM   #25
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Thanks jb and Lew. I ordered the new Dino board but am going to wait to install it until after our Labor Day rally. I don't experience 'check' light problems while on 110AC and the campground has full hookups. I'll install it once it cools off some around here. Still hovering around 108 degrees lately.

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Old 09-13-2008, 07:26 PM   #26
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Smile

hey we are having similar problems just what is a dinosaur board, is it on the back of the refer or that censor board thats on the front w/ the check light? we are new to this thanks julie
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Old 09-13-2008, 08:19 PM   #27
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Check out posts #13 and 21 for where to get a Dinosaur Board and make sure it is the right one for your model of Dometic. I have not swapped mine out yet. Honey-do's keep getting in the way.

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Old 09-13-2008, 09:00 PM   #28
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Those boards rock. Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.
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Old 09-13-2008, 10:14 PM   #29
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The Micro P-711 from Dinosaur is a military spec board as are all of the boards that Dinosaur makes, and it's less prone to the ripple DC sensitivities of the OEM Dometic board. I use Dino boards exclusively in all of my replacements.

Another thing you might want to check is the amount of AC current passing thru the rectifiers and riding along on your 12VDC feed into the refer's control board. Using a digital VOM, set it on the AC scale and apply the test leads to the 12VDC feed block at the back of the refer. If you get a noticeable VAC reading....you have conveter problems!!!!! The new Dino board will probably eliminate your check light problems, but you should have your converter checked or in some cases .......replaced!!
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Old 09-18-2008, 09:17 PM   #30
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My buddies fridge is doing the exact same thing. Have you replaced the mother board? and has it corrected the problem.
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:42 AM   #31
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Oy...here I am again 5 years later

Having the same problem that I had when I started this thread in 2008. It worked fine all that time but late last fall it started again and is a persistent problem now. I guess I'll get another board as I have sold the unit and buyer wants everything working.
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