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Old 08-07-2008, 05:01 PM   #15
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I have mid 90's era Dometic fefrigerators in both my '73 Overlander and '83 Sovereign. The first is a 2800 series 3-way and the second is a 2807 two way. Both units would seem to forget they were plugged into shore power (120v ac) and the check light would come on. After checking supply voltage, replacing the outlet, scratching my head and a few choice words, I ordered a Dinosaur Electronics Micro P-711 for both units and solved the problem. They are easy to install, took me about 1 hour for each.
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Old 08-08-2008, 07:44 AM   #16
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Yep, I had about 30 minutes into mine. 25 minutes of thinking and 5 minutes of doing.

I find that the more I think, the less I have to work. Words to live by.

As of this morning, it's still working fine.
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:08 AM   #17
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I'm getting ready to order one of these replacement boards since all of you have had such success with them. I've not worked on my Dometic and would like to know the level of difficulty involved with its replacement. I know I'll need to pull it out of the cabinet. What else is involved?

Thanks.

Brad
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:24 AM   #18
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There is no need to pull the refrigerator out. Board replacement is done from the outside access door.

Rick
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:43 AM   #19
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That part's good to hear but where on the backside is the board because I have a newer fridge in an older Airstream and the only access door I have only allows access to the area just about the middle height and a little lower of the fridge?

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Old 08-11-2008, 07:58 AM   #20
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Well I guess either you see the board or you don't so we can't answer that. I pulled my fridge this weekend for a wiring project (unrelated to the board problem). It pretty much slid right out. I had to remove 2 panels on the top and bottom front of the fridge to expose the screws holding the fridge in the cabinet.

As for replacing the board level of difficulty..this is what I did.

1) Draw the old board and make a note of where each wire attached to it goes. I wouldn't bother trying to label them. Labels fall off and get in the way. If you have that drawing, no missing labels can screw you up.
2) Now below that drawing draw the new board.
3) Now draw lines between the old board wire-tabs and the new ones. Most will be painfully obvious but some might be a little tricky.

You might be able to google up the schematic for your new Dinasaur board so you can look at it before you order it.

Also - The first thing I recommend is to somehow cut the power to the unit. Either by removing the fuse or removing the hot power first and isolating it with some electric tape or something. Don't forget about the AC!!! On my unit, that was a matter of removing a plug.

I should point out that I'm not a professional or expert so please use this advice sparingly.

ymmv
cheers
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Old 08-12-2008, 01:03 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by flyfshr View Post
Thanks for the info Garry. Do you have any contact info for the company you got yours from? I doubt its the same one for the RM2607 but maybe.

Brad
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Brad, Best Converter sells them, check the following link.


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Old 08-12-2008, 08:46 AM   #22
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Already ordered one. Should be here Friday so I have some unrelated work to do while the fridge is out like I would love to add an aluminum vented panel to allow the fridge to breathe better. I know where is one, just gotta get the guy to all me back. Of course, it will need polishing before installing.

Brad
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Old 08-20-2008, 11:44 AM   #23
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The fridge worked great on our trip up North last weekend. I did get a few "check" lights but only while traveling and frankly, I don't understand how that thing is supposed to stay lit while traveling down the road at 70 mpg.

While parked, it had no problems whatsoever.

fyi.
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Old 08-20-2008, 12:25 PM   #24
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Alternate test re: Check light

OK guys,

You've been doing good tracking down your check light problems, especially those related to the board. HOWEVER..........there are other problems which might be causing your check light to go on.

Specifically, those that deal with ripple or 'dirty' DC current reaching the fridge. This type of 'bad DC' will wreak havoc with your PC board AND cause the recurring check light problem!

The easiest way to test for this is to connect a separate 12VDC source (like another battery) directly to the 12VDC input at the back of the fridge. If you still have the check light problem when connected to a dedicated, independent 12VDC source, then it is most definitely your board. If the fridge then runs properly with no check light......you have a DC supply problem and have to look further into your power supply (converter) battery condition and what other types of components are connected to the same feed line that the fridge is on.

Let me know if you need more info on this 'phenomenon'.
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Old 08-20-2008, 12:29 PM   #25
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Thanks jb and Lew. I ordered the new Dino board but am going to wait to install it until after our Labor Day rally. I don't experience 'check' light problems while on 110AC and the campground has full hookups. I'll install it once it cools off some around here. Still hovering around 108 degrees lately.

Brad
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Old 09-13-2008, 08:26 PM   #26
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Smile

hey we are having similar problems just what is a dinosaur board, is it on the back of the refer or that censor board thats on the front w/ the check light? we are new to this thanks julie
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Old 09-13-2008, 09:19 PM   #27
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Check out posts #13 and 21 for where to get a Dinosaur Board and make sure it is the right one for your model of Dometic. I have not swapped mine out yet. Honey-do's keep getting in the way.

Brad
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Old 09-13-2008, 10:00 PM   #28
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Those boards rock. Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.
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