Dometic RM100 AC heater, big trouble

[Jim in Pima]

I went to preheat my fridge on electric before a week long camping trip, it
started to cool down just fine, couple hours later it was warm,
Then noticed my AC power was off, and the 30 AMP breaker had turned off.
Reset the breaker, but fridge did not cool..
Switched to gas and all OK
After the trip opened up the fridge back, checked continuity, heater dead, and leakage to frame. OK, tried to remove the bad heater and it almost
was burned off where it goes into a hidden metal holder, slight tug and it broke off..
I downloaded two manuals for this model and it is not clear how that
heater goes in.
Question, has anyone had this problem and removed the old heater, it feels like it welded to the bracket. Any other solution other then stay on gas?

[Mike Leary]

How old is the fridge?

[Jim in Pima]

HI, the RM100 is original 1975 vintage. Yes it would be great to replace it,
however $1200 bucks is a bit dear right now./

[arodriguez60]

on mine it seemed to have to holders for a heater. I don't know if someboby replaced the cooling unit but it had another holder that i figure was for a 12 volt heating element. The heter just sat in the holder.

[Mike Leary]

Originally Posted by Jim in Pima

HI, the RM100 is original 1975 vintage. Yes it would be great to replace it,
however $1200 bucks is a bit dear right now./

Bite the bullet and run it on propane. It will cost more than $1200 after you have it installed (we know, dearly).We had ours replaced this year: 2K parts and labor.

[dznf0g]

Does the element slide down a tube welded onto the cooling unit tube? On mine, the element tube is open at the top and bottom. I would remove the fridge, so I could get at it better, remove the chimney, and CAREFULLY work the old bits out with a rod about the same diameter as the element. If it won't budge, you may take it to someone who has a large reamer or drill bit to reach the broken off piece.

I wouldn't beat the heck out of it, (and of course support the cooling unit well) or you may let out all the smelly yellow stuff.

[Mike Leary]

I have heard of folks removing the fridge and dumping it up-side down to purge it, but, geez, time takes it's toll.

[idroba]

It will take a major removal of the entire refrigerator to get at the "chimney" that has the broken off 120 volt heater in it. Then you will still have to take the sheet metal and insulation off the chimney and hope you can get the remaining part out. Quite frankly I think you would be better off just running it on propane until the entire unit dies, then replace it with a new one. Propane is not a big expense on a refrigerator, especially compared to the cost of repairs on this one or a new one. I use my Argosy a lot, and virtually never bother to put the fridge on electric. Light it and forget it for the trip.

[Mike Leary]

Can the old re-fridges run on propane on the road?

[Rick F]

The trailer we had when I was a kid (an old late 60's Nomad) ran propane all day long while travelling down the road. I believe as long as you're able to keep the fridge more or less level it'll be happy.. This seemed to hold true for the fridge in our '01 trailer (non AS) as well.. as long as it had 12V and propane you're good to go (or a pilot light on the much older models)

[Jim in Pima]

Thanks all, I agree, fooling around taking the fridge out, drilling out old heater, look's like a recipe for disaster. So keep a lookout for a good used replacement
fridge is now in the works. Have done well looking for wrecks being parted out.
I have always run the fridge on propane while on the road, here in Az most camp areas are 3 to 5 hour drive, in 100 degree plus heat.
So make a mad dash for the "Rim" and 7000 feet.

[ventport]

A friend of mine had the same problem. He soaked the heating element in PB Blaster (penetrating Oil) for a few days and by tapping on it with a deep well socket the same diameter as the element he got it out. Put a new element in and it still works like a champ.

[Jim in Pima]

I pulled the fridge out..it needs other things done as well. I see a hole for the 12 volt
heater option (never installed) will the 120 volt heater fit in this hole???
Also has not been cooling great on gas, looks like sheet metal around vent stack is eaten away, so will fix that while I am at it.
Question, can I put the 110 heater in the 12 volt hole???
Thanks

[Jim in Pima]

Quick fix of course, anyone got a good used 2820 Dometic of equal ???/
55 1/2 tall, 8 cu ft..

[idroba]

If you went to a dealer in Dometic parts and the 120 volt and 12 volt elements for your model are the same diameter and length (they got them both out for you to compare) then I would not see any reason that you could not put a 120 volt element in the 12 volt element location. I would not do it if the original elements were not identical other than voltage.

[Jim in Pima]

Follow up, got a new heater rod, reamed the rust out of the extra tube as
impossible to get the old heater out with out damage. Works great. While I had the fridg out, discovered the area around the gas burner all rusted out, redid this are with galvanized sheet metal. Once the wind dies down here will check that out..was not cooling well on gas, figure I was loosing most of the heat.

[Okiegent]

Have you considered just cutting a opening in the metal tin that goes around the heater. Then patching with another piece and sheet metal screws. Then you got a door for future issues.

[ventport]

The last post before yours was from 2011. I think he got it figured out by now.