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Old 08-24-2006, 11:46 AM   #15
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We've had good luck salvaging original parts of Dometic fridges from various "boneyards." The WBCCI Int'l usually has a very active repair/replace business and the old units that are replaced are usually just sitting around somewhere until they are hauled away. Likewise, repair places and the RV Salvage places such as the one in Carthage, MO are good places to look. Dometic has also sold vintage parts in the Airstream tent at Int'l. We've been able to replace rusty shelves and various knobs that way.

I was having trouble with my RM-75 cooling while on gas. Just rapping on the thermostat briskly solved it's problem. The flame shot up nicely and it was able to keep cool once again. Make sure your seals are good and that the door is in proper alignment. The hinges tend to sag over time.

Good luck!
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:58 PM   #16
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Dallas,

Thanks for the tips but my box is in perfect shape. The problem is the cooling unit. There is the dreaded ammonia smell in the refrigerator which usually means a small leak in the condenser. I have not been able to find any one thaat will repair this for less than $750 plus shipping. I have located a guy in Pennsylvania that may be able to do it. I have to call him again.

A new replacement is $800 lus shipping from Palamino but I would prefer to have the original unit as I believe it makes the coach more valuable.

Thanks again,

Joe
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Old 08-24-2006, 07:57 PM   #17
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Joe-

I understand your dilemma a little better now. Apologies. I'm sure that this fate awaits many of us with original units.

Have you taken a look at http://www.rvcool.com or http://www.rvrefrigerator.net ? They seem to be able to graft in a replacement cooling unit on the back of your existing box. For only $480 and a two year warranty it seems like a good deal. They will ship the cooling unit to you or you may ship/bring your fridge to them for work.

I'd be very tempted to go this route.
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Old 08-24-2006, 09:24 PM   #18
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joe

i went the rebuilt cooling unit route, for about 500 bucks i got a working fridge again. i used a company called nucold.

i did it for the same reason you stated, keeping the original box and wood panels on it.

john
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Old 08-28-2006, 04:58 PM   #19
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Thanks John and Dallas,

I just called the folks in Arkansas and they do not build anything as old as my RM 75. It was original to the 1973 Excella and no one I have called rebuilds it except for one fellow in Soddy Daisy, TN ( yes, that's the real name). He would charge ~$800 without shipping. I bought a new unit from Palamino for that price.

I'll keep trying - I have a line on a guy in Pennsylvania.

Joe
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Old 08-28-2006, 05:15 PM   #20
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pm shari a.k.a. inside out, she had an original unit rebuilt in her vintage trailer.

there are folks who will do it.

john
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Old 08-28-2006, 07:21 PM   #21
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Thanks, John. I'm going to keep on trying. I really have a thing about original. It might be silly, but I like it.

Joe
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Old 09-03-2006, 04:45 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
The question is whether the copper (soft wire) did any scratching to the brass (also soft) orifice. Probably not in this case, as I assume that the single piece of wire was smaller than the orifice itself, thus causing no distortion to the opening.

The bottom line......if your refer is getting cold and staying cold, you don't have to worry much about the orifice.OTOH, if you have any other cooling problems noticed while running on propane ONLY, you might want to get a new orifice of the proper size. The number is usually stamped right on the orifice and is also listed in your appliance manual.
Hey lew,
My full time job is commercial cooking equipment, and we do ALOT of lp to natural conversions, often by orders of the manufactures like garland, pitco, frymaster, ect. and many times we use orfice bits. Every tech has a orfice bit set in their truck. Not all manufactures send us new orfices, some tell us to drill them out to a size they specify. If you happen to get a burr in the orfice you will get a howling noise out of it.. but I have to disagree about buying a new orfice.
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Old 09-03-2006, 04:51 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by defelice
Thanks, John. I'm going to keep on trying. I really have a thing about original. It might be silly, but I like it.

Joe
Joe I contacted a few sources and the evaporators are not available for your unit, but it still can be rebuilt....just the old fasion hard way. BTW I have a working rm76 thats in really good shape and complete if anybody is interested.
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Old 09-03-2006, 07:32 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
joe

pm shari a.k.a. inside out, she had an original unit rebuilt in her vintage trailer.

there are folks who will do it.

john
Perhaps I/O could post the info to this thread because I'm sure there are others who would be interested in the info (I, for one!).
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Old 09-03-2006, 01:56 PM   #25
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Orfii

I agree with Lew, it is best to replace orfii especially for dometic units. Rv appliances, especially refrigerators are very low BTU input compared to many other LP appliances used in the home and commercial applications. Low BTU means low gas flow, therefore very high precision and control of the inlet, and outlet shape and radii have a dramatic effect on gas flow. Jet numbers do not relate to hole size, they relate to flow, and flow is affected by shape and radius of inlet and outlet configuration not just the drilled hole size. Natural gas is much more forgiving because of the lower unit BTU content and thus higher required flow so drilling by technicians is commonplace. This is not true for LP. Since LP is not a pure gas and always has some contamination, tar-like materials and some abrasive particles as well as corrosive elements are present. Old well used cleaned jets flow more gas and affect the burn quality adversely in my experience.
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