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Old 06-24-2017, 08:57 AM   #1
1 Rivet Member
 
2013 25' Flying Cloud
Golden , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 5
Dometic Refrigerator Fan

I have a 2013 Flying Cloud 25 RB. My Dometic refrigerator is running, but is having trouble getting below 50 degrees. Upon inspection it appears the outer fan that cools the unit and fins is not working. They are definitely warm to the touch. I've opened the outside covers and that already is helping. Now to troubleshoot the fan. Is there an on/off switch? The manual refers to one, but I can't seem to find it. Any other suggestions would be welcomed.
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Old 06-24-2017, 09:55 AM   #2
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,742
Hi

The fans run on a thermostat. If things get hot, the fans should turn on. Normally the easy way to troubleshoot a fan is to jumper power directly to it. Either it runs or it does not. On some fans that's easier to do than on others. It all depends on how they routed the wiring on yours.


If you just plain can not get to the connectors / connections, a pin and a multimeter are your friend. Poke the pin into the hot lead on the fan and see if it is hot when the fan is not running. If so, it's the fan. If not (and everything it heated up) it's the thermostat, the breaker, or a phantom switch. The list of breakers is in your owners manual. Having the fan on some odd breaker is possible.

Yes, this is a bit generic. My trailer is different than yours so "poke this here" on mine is not going to be the same place to poke on yours ....

Bob
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Old 06-24-2017, 10:45 AM   #3
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2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
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The fan does not have a switch (originally) but a lot of people have added them. The thermostat originally was secured to the cooling fins with some gumpucky, and may have fallen off and hanging down below on its wires.

But propping open the upper and lower access doors is the best ventilation to cool the compartment, the fan doesn't matter much then.

When the weather is warm, and the fridge compartment is facing the sun (especially afternoon sun) the fridge will have trouble keeping cool. If you have a side awning, pull it open, that will help a lot. It is wise to park the trailer in a site so the sun is not directly on that side of the trailer in warm weather, or in a shady spot. Very warm Airstream interior temps can also challenge the fridge, keep it ventilated with windows and roof fans.

It is also important to keep plenty of food and/or liquids in the fridge and freezer to stabilize the temps. But the best thing you can do is keep that side of the trailer out of the direct sun in very warm weather.
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Old 06-25-2017, 08:44 PM   #4
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
Washington , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,591
On out last trip to Pismo Beach 1-2017 it was warm for the beach (H 70's to low 80's). Like Doug I almost always prop open the upper exterior refer door. Usually the fan goes off in a few minutes. I should note, I also swapped out the OEM for a much quiter fan ( SilenX IXP-76-18 120 x 38 mm. iXtrema Pro 18DBA 90CFM Fan), so I use the open door method to extend the life of the fan. It is so quiet I hardy hear it.

The fan (with the door open) didn't seem to ever be running. My wife was drying her hair so I borrower her hair dryer, turn it on high and pointed it at the button stat screwed to the cooling fins. In few minutes it was off to the races.

I have a lighted on/off toggle switch to control my fan. It is located on the bulkhead by the door that backs up to the refer. I noticed when I swapped our the fan and removed the tubular wire casing that there was a 1 amp fuse wrapped in the bundle. Follow the stat connection wire back and look for the fuse. It's a twist lock to open and should be able to tell if the fuse is blown or intact. You may not have one but ours is a 2014 and you're newer so probably does.

Somehow either with the hair dryer, meter or the jumper shunt. you need to determine if the button stat is closing and allowing juice to flow from the power side to the fan. In all likely hood the fan is OK or you would have heard it prior to locking up at failure. The OEM's are notorious for premature bearing failure and noise.

IMO the likely culprit is the button stat or the 1 amp inline fuse. Next in line is to check the 6 volt fuses. We have 8 with one open spare. AS does a decent job of labeling them. This fuse could be blown but that is a long shot as other devices are connected to the same circuit and would likely have come to your attention.


There is a decal at the fuse panel right side (DC distribution panel), In my case c#3, the monitor, (refer fan) Kit Hood Fans pump etc all would be inoperative.

Good luck.

Bob

BTW richw46 added a post to another thread about where to buy (higher quality) replacement stat's.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f382...ml#post1856439
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