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Old 04-19-2009, 11:02 AM   #1
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1981 25' Excella II
Dillon , Colorado
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Dometic has stopped working on AC?

I have a Dometic RM 660 that I believe is the original refrigerator in my 1981 Excella 2. It's worked great on both propane and AC up until today. I'm in the process of slowly de-winterizing, although the plumbing will have to wait until the end of April since it's still snowing here. I started the fridge on AC 2 days ago and it frosted up properly. Last night I took out the shelfs to clean them and put them back in. This morning the unit has stopped cooling while on AC. I checked my owners manual but it offers no suggestions to troubleshoot AC problems. I'm getting power to the outlet where it plugs in. I took off a cover where the manual suggested there was a fuse next to the thermostat block but there is no place for a fuse there. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to start to troubleshoot this? At the age of the unit I may I don't think I'd want to take it to a tech, and I might be able to live with it cooling on propane only since I primarily dry camp or boon dock. I would like to have it working on AC however.
Thanks: Charlie
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Old 04-19-2009, 11:15 AM   #2
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One other question. If I decided to replace the unit does anyone know the replacement model for the RM660?

Thanks: Charlie
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Old 04-19-2009, 11:18 AM   #3
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If you have a voltmeter, check to see if the element is getting 120 volts. It's possible you have a breaker tripped, or a bad 120v plug for the fridge. It's also possible the element has burned out. If it's getting 120v, and nothing is happening, I would suspect the element has gone South.
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Old 04-19-2009, 11:53 AM   #4
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If you read 120 volts at the terminals for the element, while set for AC operation, the control board is working. If not check at the receptacle for power. If you have power at the receptacle and not at the terminals the board is bad.

Now if you have power at the element terminals on the control board and no cooling remove one of the wires on the element terminals, while the power is off. Now while the power is on check for voltage between the removed wire and the terminal. If you have no voltage the element is open and bad. If you have voltage across the wire to terminal it should work.

Keep in mind that the refrigerator will cycle against the thermostat and a better way to check overall operation is to see if once frozen the freezer maintains ice on the freezer shelf. In cooler temperatures it is not uncommon for the refrigerator to appear off. A test would be to put 2 gallons of warm water in the refrigerator for a couple of hours and then check the temperature in the box.
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Old 04-19-2009, 04:34 PM   #5
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Advice given is as good as it gets. If you find it's the board you may get a new style retrofit kit. If the gas cools it than you don't need a new frige, just a fix. Good luck......
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Old 04-19-2009, 11:21 PM   #6
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1981 25' Excella II
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Thanks for all the troubleshooting advise. Lewster also sent me a pm with similar advise. I had to leave for the day after messing with the fridge for a few hours. I was able to test the outlet and verify that I'm getting 120 to the fridge. I also set it to propane and found it perfectly cold with the freezer frosted up when I returned home. If I had to choose between the fridge working on propane or AC I'd definitely want it to work on propane. At least it's functional for camping if I can't get the AC working before our first outing on April 30th. It's strange that the manual shows a fuse beside the relay and thermostat block but there isn't one there or a place for it. I guess I'll try to follow the lines to the element when I get home tomorrow and start checking with my multi meter. Does anyone know how difficult it is to change the element. If I had to pull the fridge out and disconnect gas lines in the process I think I'd take it to a shop. I'll post what I find with my test tomorrow and see if I should proceed or call the local rv tech.

Thanks: Charlie
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Old 04-21-2009, 08:28 PM   #7
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1981 25' Excella II
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After testing with the multi meter, every indication is that the element is bad. I'm sure that this is the original fridge so it doesn't have a board, just a dual thermostat block that handles both the lp and the ac, and a relay. The relay shows 120 at the point where the element wires connect but the element doesn't read with the ohm meter or heat up when direct wired. I ordered the element today from ppl for $43.95, it's a piece of cake to change out. The fridge is working perfectly right now on propane so I hope to get a few more years out of her before I have to drop a grand on a new on.


Thanks: Charlie
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