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Old 07-18-2003, 09:38 AM   #15
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Dometic Fridge

I am intrested in installing a fan behind the fridge to better move/vent the air but I guess that I am a bit paranoid about doing anything to the fridge (i.e. moving it) since I finally have it level and working. If I attempt to pull the fridge out, do I run a great risk of messing things up (taking it off level). I frequently tinker with other things in the trailer (lights, plumbing, converter, etc.) and don't worry about that. Thanks,

Montanaandy
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Old 07-18-2003, 10:08 AM   #16
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We did not pull the fridge out. All work was easily done on the back of the fridge throught the access door.
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Old 07-18-2003, 12:24 PM   #17
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Dometic Fridge Problems

Beachmpk:

Thanks for the input. I will give it a try next weekend (trying to get ready to head to the mountains this weekend).

Montanaandy
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Old 07-18-2003, 12:45 PM   #18
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Fans

If you have any access to a place that scraps old computers, excellect 12v fans can bought for $5 or less. I bought some small fans for $1 each with heat sinks a while back. Computer fans are chosen to be very quiet and reliable.
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Old 07-18-2003, 12:48 PM   #19
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Exterior fan placement

When you installed exterior fans to cool the coils, did you mount at the air intake opening? Or above the burner element? Our intake is in the floor, not the wall. I've noticed the flue becomes hot to touch in the cabinet, so I am going to try putting a fan in to help coolit off too (vent appears to be clear). Our unit currently doesn't have enough oomph to cool on gas alone, wondering if the fan may help that. Sounds like a great weekend test.
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Old 07-18-2003, 12:57 PM   #20
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Jason,

Any additional movement up the flue is going to be benifical. I have a 1 year old unit and installed a 12 volt high volume CPU fan just above the access door to the refer. It points straight up the middle of the flue. When we camp where the sun beats on the side of the MH that houses the refer I run it to help with cooling. When I run the fan I can lower the thermostat.

The flue may be hot, that is normal. The Liquid needs to be brought to it's boling point in order to work. The airflow that needs to be augmented is over the fins that are near the top of the refer. This is where the heat is dissapated from the cooling unit. If you add a 12 volt fan in the floor opening pointing up, just be sure it is not blowing up the flue of the refer, just the flue of the trailer.
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Old 07-18-2003, 01:39 PM   #21
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Hi Brett,

Thanks for the pointer. I'll see if there is somewhere I can mount it and try and center it under the coils, above the burner. Right now I have to crank the T-stat to the max setting to get it in the zone, so hopefully this will help.

Thanks!
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Old 07-20-2003, 05:21 PM   #22
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Aux. Fans

I did all my work installing the aux. fan thru the access door behind the refrig. I reached as high as I could, which was bear to do, and using a 1/4" air ratchet and self tapping screws I was able to secure the fan and fabricated bracket to the inner wall. The 110V fan is very quiet and only draws less than an amp (if that as per the appliance parts store person).

Any additional air movement is what is needed.

Dave Spann
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Old 08-18-2003, 09:21 AM   #23
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I just read this thread and the fan ideas sound good. This winter I will rebuild the cabinets around our new 2510. A fan will be added to increase air flow over the cooling coils. I also plan to add foam insulation to the sides and top of the cabinet holding the refrigerator.

The higher the air tempature is inside the trailer, the more insulation it takes to slow the heat flow into the refrigerator. Also, the high air tempature reduces the efficiency of heat flow out of the cooling coils. This makes me wonder if insulation added to the exterior wall behind the refrigerator would help also? Anybody have thoughts on this?
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Old 06-16-2004, 04:29 AM   #24
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Maybe this explains my current situation. My Dometic is not level,and the fresh food section does not go below 60F, whereas I remember the last time it was level, it went to below 30F. Hm.

Quote:
Another issue that can cause erratic cooling is whether the refrigerator is level - - in other words has the coach been leveled. Again, the older the coach/refrigerator the more critical the leveling becomes. My Argosy is far more sensitive to the degree to which the coach has been leveled than is the Overlander with its newer refrigerator.
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Old 07-11-2004, 08:41 AM   #25
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coil heat

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Originally Posted by overlander64
Greetings Linda!

Welcome to the Forums!

You may not have a problem. How long was the refrigerator in operation when you noted the temperature? Especially if you have a Vintage coach with a vintage Dometic refrigerator it will take several hous for the refrigerator to cool noticeably - - the freezer will be the first to actually feel cold. For instance, in my '78 Argosy Minuet it takes about two to four hours for the freezer to begin to feel cold while it might take 12 to 36 hours for the refrigerator to reach its normal operating temperature. In my Overlander which has a two year old Dometic 3-Way refrigerator, these times are much faster - - almost 50% faster.

Another issue that can cause erratic cooling is whether the refrigerator is level - - in other words has the coach been leveled. Again, the older the coach/refrigerator the more critical the leveling becomes. My Argosy is far more sensitive to the degree to which the coach has been leveled than is the Overlander with its newer refrigerator.

Good luck with your coach!

Kevin
I have the same problems as everyone and I was wondering as you feel the coils on the back where should the most heat be and the least. Mine is hot on the top pipe out of the boiler to the evaporator and is cooled down after it leaves the evap. It is cold as it leaves the frig at the exit point of the fresh food section. What puzzles me is how hot the pipe is from the boiler bottom to the vessel ,is that normal?Jim
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Old 08-16-2006, 10:26 PM   #26
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Regarding the setting for the temp, which setting is colder? A high or low number.
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Old 08-16-2006, 10:34 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaylejoe
Regarding the setting for the temp, which setting is colder? A high or low number.
The higher the number the colder the setting.
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Old 08-19-2006, 06:06 PM   #28
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Dometic Baffle

Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander64
Greetings Linda!

Welcome to the Forums!

You may not have a problem. How long was the refrigerator in operation when you noted the temperature? Especially if you have a Vintage coach with a vintage Dometic refrigerator it will take several hous for the refrigerator to cool noticeably - - the freezer will be the first to actually feel cold. For instance, in my '78 Argosy Minuet it takes about two to four hours for the freezer to begin to feel cold while it might take 12 to 36 hours for the refrigerator to reach its normal operating temperature. In my Overlander which has a two year old Dometic 3-Way refrigerator, these times are much faster - - almost 50% faster.

Another issue that can cause erratic cooling is whether the refrigerator is level - - in other words has the coach been leveled. Again, the older the coach/refrigerator the more critical the leveling becomes. My Argosy is far more sensitive to the degree to which the coach has been leveled than is the Overlander with its newer refrigerator.

Good luck with your coach!

Kevin
Kevin, read many of your great responses--thought you may be able to help with my '67 Safari project...I need a Dometic gas tube baffle to replace the one in my MA52 Dometic gas/electric uint. Do you know of a source for old refrigerator parts? Thanks much/Joe.
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