I plugged it in to shore power, it ran fine for a day, freezer is very cold, then suddenly it cut off. Does not respond to the power button, no response at all, no lights flash.
I checked the 120V fuses, rather the breakers and they were all set to on. What is going on and what can be done about it?
__________________
1986 Excella, 32' - FOR SALE ON EBAY, AUCTION # 160034864277
Justice - When you get what you deserve. Mercy - When you don't get what you deserve
Grace - When you get what you don't deserve
If there are no lights period (do you have a "power on" light?), then you need to check for 120 vac at the refrigerator's outlet.
If you have power, my first thought is a bad thermostat.
On my Dometic, there are two thermostats - One for LPG operation, and one for 120 vac operation. If you also have two knobs, try running your unit on gas & see if it cools.
That's right, there are no lights, period - it's acting as if it's not plugged in at all. Yet I have shore power, confirmed by running 110V appliances.
It's not responding on gas either.
Where do I check for power, on the outside?
__________________
1986 Excella, 32' - FOR SALE ON EBAY, AUCTION # 160034864277
Justice - When you get what you deserve. Mercy - When you don't get what you deserve
Grace - When you get what you don't deserve
I had trouble with my '95 Dometic a few years back. Similar to you, both the 120 VAC and 12 VDC sources checked out fine and it would not work on propane either. All signs pointed to a defected main circuit board.
The 120 VAC heating rod is controled, switched on and off, by the main circuit board. After diconnecting the control board from both AC and DC, I diconnected the leads to the heating rod and made a 120 VAC cord set using the same type connectors. I plugged the heating rod via the cord set into the 120 VAC outlet that normally feeds the control board. If the refrigerator got cold that proved that the heating rod was good and the board was bad. If the refrigerator still did not get cold, either the heating rod was also bad or you have major refrigerant problems. I replaced the main board and it is still working.
I still carry that cord set and the a spare heating rod. If I or anyone else has a problem with their Dometic Refrigerator and they have 120 VAC available, I can get them going again. They just have to unplug the cord every so often or everything will freeze. You have to be the thermostat. Generally a new board can be secured within a days drive or overnight via UPS or FEDEX. This device has saved vacations and often leads to free drinks and meals from a gratefull camper's wife!
Dometic factory "control boards" had circuits embedded in plastic compound that is often prone to overheating. Symptoms are operation for up to a day or so, then hard cutoff.. Unplugging main power, and waiting a few hours will often enable board to start up again, but would shut off again, either on gas or 110V power. If that doesn't work, I'd join votes that either a 12V fuse or 110V breaker has failed interrupting power to the refrigerator...
Several threads in this area with sources, and I'd definitely consider replacement board (Dragon??) at ~$110 before letting RV dealer or shop sell brand new Refrigerator (which is their preferred repair..).
John McG
__________________
Condoluminum
In Theory, there's no difference between Theory and Practice, but in Practice, there is usually a difference...
Quick Links
Linear Mode
