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Old 03-24-2010, 04:38 PM   #1
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Dometic BLUE wire, where does it attach?

Still working with my 1970 Dometic Fridge....
As suggested by TG twinkie I went on the hunt for the heating element before I could locate the element I found this BLUE wire. Where does it go?? What does it do??
Thanks all, Cynthia
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Old 03-24-2010, 05:02 PM   #2
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Oh, and where do I locate the Dometic Model #??
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Old 03-24-2010, 08:37 PM   #3
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Blue wire

I am guessing, but I'd say it doesn't connect to anything. It looks like it has heat shrink tubing on the end to insulate it. I see what looks like a wiring schematic on the sheetmetal cover on the right hand side of the pic. Can you get a shot of it with your camera and post it. What is the copper line that is bent to the point where it is crushed.
The white wires are headed in the right direction for the heating element, although it doesn't look like it is high temp wire. What is the black flex pipe above and behind it. Look at the circuit board where the wires connect and tell me if they have any identification. If it is something like H1 and H2, it's probably the heater wiring.
This refer is slightly different than mine, but I'm sure we can work out the differences.
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Old 03-24-2010, 08:38 PM   #4
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Model #

Is the model number on the schematic that I mentioned in the previous post?
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:28 PM   #5
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TG Twink,
Isn't that the recall ("fire shield) sheet metal on the right side of photo? On mine, that schematic is the one they posted on the new sheet metal, and it reflected the change in power wiring to route line DC power through the fusible link and the thermal disc and THEN to the J1 terminal on the main power board.

Unfortunately, the new schematic apparently doesn't reflect whether your power board is like the one they picture. It isn't right for mine.

The bent copper pipe is the propane supply, not connected. This unit apparently is sitting on a concrete floor?

I can't find my file info on my control board, will try to look tomorrow in case it'll help.

Jim
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:52 PM   #6
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I found a link to a service manual, may not apply to this fridge. See page 12 for reference to blue wire, may also have other needed info.

Hope it helps, Good luck,

Jim
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Old 03-24-2010, 09:52 PM   #7
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I agree with Twinkie on the blue wire. I have one just like that on mine with the heat shrink on the end. It doesn't plug in anywhere.

On my fridge, there is a data plate inside the fridge on the left side of the door opening that gives all of the model number data, coolant type and so forth.

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Old 03-24-2010, 09:53 PM   #8
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In the first photo, it says Model 903A. Isn't that the model number?

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Old 09-25-2010, 12:01 PM   #9
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Tried the burping to no avail. Tried using electric and it became coolish in freezer. Before I get rid of this fridge, Im wondering if it will work on propane. Can I hook the fridge directly to propane? Does it need a length of copper line for saftey reasons? Does it need electric and propane for it to work? Thanks all !
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Old 09-25-2010, 12:44 PM   #10
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Danger!!!!!!!!!

How long did it take to cool? Depending on where you have the electric thermostat set it could take 24 hours to cool down, if I remember correctly it says to set it a 5 to start, but you might crank it higher and see if it gets cooler. The thermostats are not the most accurate things on the planet. Do not hook a propane bottle directly to the refer, you need a regulator to reduce the gas pressure. I used the regulator from my old Shasta trailer to shop test my refer. You could remove the one on your trailer and with the proper fittings rig it up to the refer in the shop. This is not exactly the same model as mine, but I would think it will run on propane without electric. Good Luck
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Old 09-25-2010, 01:06 PM   #11
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I don't know about the recall heat shield. But if you remove the shield and the insulation behind it, I think you will find a "heat well" a hollow pipe, the heating element slides down into it. If I had to guess, I would say it is at the end of the 2 white wires that go behind the shield. The original element on mine had ceramic beads as high temp insulator, but the new element I installed has teflon coated wire and a slip cover, (the red sheath) in the photo I posted. If you know how to use a volt meter you could plug the unit into 120 volt AC power. It looks to me like the heating element is connected to the lower right corner of the ciruit board, the 2 connectors that are not insulated and test for power there. The thermostat should be set to max and the selector (gas/electric) should be in the electric mode for the test. If there is power and it's not getting hot, then I'd say the element is bad. They are light light bulbs and have a finite life.
I see what looks like a label for 12v behind the black wire, it appears that this unit has a 12v function. It seems to me that the newer units have an electric ignition system for lighting the burner in the propane mode. Some one with knowledge about this should chime in here. My refer is strictly manual when it comes to lighting the burner.
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Old 09-25-2010, 01:09 PM   #12
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TG Twinkie,
I knew that I needed some guidance regarding the propane... So, glad you responded. You may have saved me from death or serious injury. Thank You! Cynthia
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Old 09-25-2010, 01:18 PM   #13
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Photos

Here are some photos of my unit. There are some differences. But they operate basically the same. Does your unit have the little flip over cover shown on the lower right of the top picture I posted. The propane burner is behind that little cover. My unit does not have the circuit board. It looks to me like your refer was built in March of 2001, I think that is the manufactured date on the label that has the 903A model number.
Upon further study of your photo, you may need 12 volts to get the burner lit. I see what looks like a solenoid valve (the item with the red coil) connected to what looks like a pilot gas line. Does it have any printing on it that you can read? Like 12v DC.
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Old 09-25-2010, 01:54 PM   #14
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I agree, that is not an original refrigerator from 1970. The older units did not have a circuit board. It could be a 2820 which was used by many people to replace the older "tall" units.
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