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Old 01-08-2014, 04:17 PM   #1
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2012 28' International
2009 34' Panamerica
Poplarville , Mississippi
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Dometic alternating between temp & "LP"

On my relatively new 28' Signature, I was having problems with the fridge (RM3762LBX). Both trailers were "winterized" and hibernating. I elected to run both refrigerators for a few days in preparation for a trip (didn't know which one I was taking). After the refrigerator in the 28' cooled down, a day or so later, I noticed that the display panel was alternating the temp and "LP". Upon a closer look, the fridge wasn't cooling. The fridge was set on Auto but I had the LP bottles shut off. On the fridge, I could get both the little "pixel" lights lit up indicating "Auto" or I could get the little LP pixel indicator light on. I came here and searched but didn't find the same circumstances.

To make sure it wasn't the fridge, I opened up the LP bottles and attempted to run it on propane. It promptly fired up. The alternating flashing display went away and it only reflected the temp continuously. The fridge cooled down in short order. Everything was good on LP.

Shut down the gas operation and tried it on 120v again....same results as earlier...no cooling. With only about 250 hours on the unit primarily in my driveway, I jumped to the conclusion that the 120v heating element had bit the dust (though I had a 12v/120v heating element last 20+ years on a previous AS). Hoping against hope, I disconnected the power and checked the fuses (two 5 amps...a mini blade type and a glass tube type...from outside access...lower left corner). I pulled the glass fuse first and it didn't appear to be blown but checked it with a volt/ohm meter anyway as stranger things have been known to happen...fuse was good. When I went to re-install it, I noticed the fuse holder had no clamping force on the fuse...like none on one end and barely any on the other end (I strongly suspect it is of Chinese descent). With a pair of forceps I strategically bent the little tabs of the fuse holder to make sure it was in good contact with the fuse. Re-connected the 120v, checked voltage to the heating element and all was good. After checking the temp display, the "pixel" light is illuminated on the left side indicating 120v operation. It cooled down and it looks like everything is back to normal (whatever that is).

So the next time I see an alternating temp & "LP" in the display, I'm going to take it that the electrical side is out of commission and its trying to tell me to turn on the LP unless I want my Blue Bell melted.

As bad as I hate to admit it, I have a 1 year old trailer with very limited use and an 11 year old trailer with plenty of use and I have less trouble out of the older one than I do the newer one. I like my Signature but I love my older Classic. I'm sure I'll love my Sig, too......when I get the rest of the bugs worked out of it.

Z
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Old 01-08-2014, 04:31 PM   #2
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Sounds like you found and fixed the problem. It is normal for the fridge to first select AC when set on Auto then switch over to LP when AC is unavailable; but, in your case the LP was turned off so it couldn't ignite. You shouldn't have any more problems.
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Old 01-08-2014, 05:29 PM   #3
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You might put a pair of alligator clips on the wires either side of an automotive flat fuse holder and carry that as the emergency fuse bridge if the chinese metal forgets to hold onto the existing fuse.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:05 AM   #4
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2012 28' International
2009 34' Panamerica
Poplarville , Mississippi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acstokes View Post
You shouldn't have any more problem.
I appreciate your optimism as sometimes, I lose mine.

BMW motorcycles were having a rash of final drive problems/failures for years. As a result, it was determined that the final drive was a good design and the parts were built well within specs. It was simply a matter of an assembly issue.

I find it somewhat disappointing when I have all the right stuff or parts but it was just a matter of the build not being executed properly. Of the half a dozen or so issues I've had with this 28' trailer, all of the issues could have been avoided if someone had been paying closer attention or cared.

The first problem I remedied on this trailer was the tank level indicators. None of the probes were measuring the tanks they should have (jumbled). I pulled the monitor out of the wall...the back of the monitor was clearly marked as to what was what. Each of the leads with the modular plugs from the transducers were clearly marked with big adhesive tags and not one was plugged into its corresponding receptacles. What's the odds of getting all three wrong. It was an easy fix but it planted a seed in my head that I am still having trouble shaking.

There are numerous things that could be wrong and its up to me to figure out what they are before causing any problems. I don't mind finishing their work to some degree but it would be somewhat easier if you knew ahead of time what they got lax on.

But I will endeavor to persevere....

Z
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:10 AM   #5
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2009 34' Panamerica
Poplarville , Mississippi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
You might put a pair of alligator clips on the wires either side of an automotive flat fuse holder and carry that as the emergency fuse bridge if the chinese metal forgets to hold onto the existing fuse.
Good idea and I'm going to put a jumper in it right now while its fresh on my mind.

See you around.

Z
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Old 01-09-2014, 01:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zackybilly1 View Post
As bad as I hate to admit it, I have a 1 year old trailer with very limited use and an 11 year old trailer with plenty of use and I have less trouble out of the older one than I do the newer one. I like my Signature but I love my older Classic. I'm sure I'll love my Sig, too......when I get the rest of the bugs worked out of it.
There is definitely a shakeout period.

I have less trouble with my 2010 than I did when it was new. Still a few minor nuisances but nothing like before.
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