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Old 08-27-2009, 02:13 PM   #1
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Dometic 2652

Problem with freezing in refer compartment of a Dometic 2652. Tried moving thermistor around fins "better" to no avail. Is there anyone familiar with these circuit boards that could recommend how to test for cause of this problem? I'd like to work this through without buying a new circuit board if not absolutely necessary. Not even sure a new one would solve the problem. Thanks.
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Old 08-27-2009, 02:39 PM   #2
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Ammonia only moving "part" _ does clog though

You should make sure the ammonia is circulating thru the system efficiently.

Take your hand and place on the heating tube from the outside access. then touch the coils zig-zagging down the back. Both should be about the same temp by hand. This means your system is circulating.

There are other tests too.....

Steve in Savannah

BTW, was this a replacement for a Dometic 26xx box?
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Old 08-27-2009, 02:56 PM   #3
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I'll have to turn it on and get it down to operating temp, so it will be a day or so at least before I can answer this. What are other tests? Is there a web site to go to trouble shoot this unit? It is a replacement unit in a '83 31' excella. Thanks
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Old 08-27-2009, 03:14 PM   #4
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I have the same model, and it's usually around 30F in the reefer compartment with the thermister at the midpoint. The door never stays closed long enough for the beer to get too slushy.

Is your thermistor mounted in a little plastic slide mount on the far right?
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Old 08-27-2009, 03:39 PM   #5
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Yes it was and I moved it over a few inches. But ours is closed and unused most of the time.
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Old 08-27-2009, 04:17 PM   #6
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I pulled this off a website and have it in a Word doc..... Steve



Maintenance...Most important thing to do is to keep burner clean. Need to keep out soot, as otherwise will shut down. Access is typically from outside compartment directly behind fridge. Side by side are lower left corner from outside; and top fridge is lower right. Take out the 1-3 screws. Knock soot off with a scredriver, and blow it away with compressed air or simply a plain straw. Service center maintenance should be performed annually.
There is little difference in efficiency between propane and electric. Be sure to be reasonably level so the fridge will operate efficiently, and the cooling unit will last longer. Can run 4-6 hours during the day with fridge off (e.g. while traveling) with no significant impact on fridge temps -- so long as you keep the door closed.
Also look for spark gap for propane ignition. Small stainless steel wire (electrode) sparks down to the burner. Don't ever bend the wire; but do bend the metal so that it's 3/16" away. Only spare part to take is an extra ignitor (e.g. trip to Mexico or Alaska). Should be around $20-$30.
To clean flue: remove burner and use low pressure compressed air and blow it up and out as you're slapping on the flue enclosure. The clean burner out and reassemble.
On inside the most important thing is the door gasket. Clean vinyl door gasket impeccably. Any food spills on the gasket should be cleaned up immediately. Gasket has accordion fold, and especially on the top of the door need to clean down into that fold. Small vinyl tears can be repaired with vinyl cement. apply, close door on was paper and let it sit for a couple of hours.
Don't use abrasive on inside of fridge. Ivory liquid in warm water and wash it down. Few drops of vanilla in rinse water will leave fresh pleasant odor after cleaning.
Temperature and frost. If you want to know food temp, find an aquarium thermometer for 99 cents and keep one in a glass of water. Olive jar works well. That water will be the same temp as your food. You'd be amazed how steady the food temperature is compared to the air temperature.
No such thing as "cold" -- it is essentially the absence of "heat". Take it away, and things get cold. Transporting heat from one place to another. Frost is the enemy. If heat has to go through big layer of frost, it's inefficient. Fridge doesn't care. It'll do its best. Mild or cold weather not too important. But in warm weather it has to work much harder. Frost is always at highest place in coldest areas. How often should you defrost? In warm weather you'll need to do it more frequently.
Temps: Dairy will keep at 43 degrees. Household refrigerator will give you around 40 degrees. 38-40 degrees should be optimal for RV refrigerator. In warm to hot weather you may need to be running the cooling unit all the time. But frost will build up on aluminum fans. If you accumulate ice on fins you either are running it too cold or you have a giant air leak on your fridge door.
Note the fridge has settings from 1 to 5. 1 is warmest setting, 5 is coldest. Ideally it should be correct with a setting of 3. Fans come in two types. One is inside, and the other is in the back of the cooling unit (more effective). They help, but probably not needed in most applications. Consistently hot ambient temperatures is where this may help.
Bad door seal? Dollar bill test doesn't work any longer. Now you'll need at least a twenty. (joke) Put it in if it falls down you have a problem. Gasket is permanently attached to door. If you want a new gasket you need to replace whole door. There are replacement gaskets, but very complex to install successfully.
Should you keep refrigerator running while in storage? If that's an option, it makes no difference. He suggests leaving it on. At a minimum the heat keeps the beasties out of some hard to get to places.
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Old 08-27-2009, 04:29 PM   #7
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Why did you move it over?

Just thinkin' the sticker says to move it up for colder and down for warmer.
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Old 08-27-2009, 04:41 PM   #8
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I think the thermistor should be on the far right fin up towards the top.

Garry
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Old 08-27-2009, 07:06 PM   #9
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I moved it into the middle now, Mark. What's your reasoning Garry?
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