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Old 04-18-2006, 11:12 PM   #15
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1958 22' Flying Cloud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
Have a new Norcold N600 3 way. I'll see what the trimetric says is draws once it's in the trailer. Figure I'll run a dedicated fused #6 charge line back from the alternator or other those big labeled lugs with a switch and a separate plug hookup to the trailer. Have to find a plug/Socket set that will work. Think I'll put a relay on the trailer side so the fridge cann't draw battery juice if the alternator isn't putting out. Not sure how to do that but seems like the right approach.

Thanks for the input.
No need for the separate plug hookup, if you use the old Airstream style 7-round connector at the TV and trailer's umbilical cord. They have a high enough rating for your refrigerator's 12 V needs.
Running a 6 or 8 ga from the battery Truck's battery back to the charge connector might be a good idea.
You can use a diode and a 30A relay to disable the 12V to the fridge when the tow vehicle is unplugged. I have a diagram for this somewhere, need to look for it and post it for you.
The fridge's 12V draws only little more than a pair of powerful offroad lights, 150W or so. It is not really a major draw.
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Old 04-19-2006, 12:14 PM   #16
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Diodes is one of those things I never want to meet in a dark alley. They are oneway do dahs? "The Bat Cave Express" design is optimized for being "on the road". That's why the 12volt fridge. I didn't want gas on while making an 8 to 10 hour run. The schematic would be helpful.
I'm thinking I want to come off the alternator so I don't run the risk of draining the truck batteries while stopped over night without disconnecting. That's probably one of those diode issues again?
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Old 04-19-2006, 12:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
Diodes is one of those things I never want to meet in a dark alley. They are oneway do dahs? "The Bat Cave Express" design is optimized for being "on the road". That's why the 12volt fridge. I didn't want gas on while making an 8 to 10 hour run. The schematic would be helpful.
I'm thinking I want to come off the alternator so I don't run the risk of draining the truck batteries while stopped over night without disconnecting. That's probably one of those diode issues again?
Diodes are nothing more than electrical check valves. Current flows one way only. Properly dimensioned, they are rarely a cause of trouble.
The Alternator is typically parallel to the battery, meaning that if you hook up to the alternator, it will still draw down your battery if you forget to disconnect with the fridge on 12V. Maybe some sort of battery isolator coul dbe amployed?
Another way to disconnect the 12V as soon as the engin is turned off, is to use a fuel pump safety relay. Those relays read engine dwell ( or ignition rpm) and turn off as soon as the motor stops. But then you might as well wire a relay in the ignition circuit, which turns off when you turn the key off.
I can't see how you can provide an automated 12V management for your fridge without some sort of electronic device. You will have to somehow modify your tow vehicle's wiring to accomodate this.

I agree with your concern that each and every system that is added to the trailer/tow vehicle at some point can fail and cause you grief.
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:06 AM   #18
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Hello Over59,

I recommend a cole hersey (brand name) solenoid to isolate your draw issues on the truck batteries.Large cable off alt stud to isolator one side large stud,then large cable from isolator other large stud back to airstream or your feed to fridge.Small terminal is key on power only from a fused 20 amp circuit .Key on ,solenoid on power flows to fridge ,key off alternator is isolated as are the batteries in the truck .I use this same solenoid for my 12volt needs and my travelall battery never can be drained by the trailer or its 12volt sources.I do not use any blue isolator as sold by rv outlets. they require 1 full volt of power to operate so you can not get more than 13.50 volts to your truck or rv batteries. they work excellent in dual battery installations as well.uwe has the same idea of thinking as well.
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Old 06-13-2006, 02:43 PM   #19
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We have a three way in Chummy and use it all the time. My understanding from Dometic is that it will not cool the unit on DC but will help maintain the cold during the driving times. I was also told that Dometic will no longer be making a three way.
Ah, so maybe my Dometic is actually working as intended. On AC it seems to cool pretty well. On DC it sort of maintains the cool (I think, kinda sorta . Haven't yet been able to test out LP gas operation. The controls are less than intuitive (i.e. a button that says "manual" or "auto" but no sign of a switch that controls operation when it's on "manual).

Seems like moving a frozen water bottle from the freezer to the fridge is a must while traveling. I'll have to try running it on 12V in the driveway for a while and monitor battery voltage. If it's attempting to maintain a constant power draw then amperage is going to go up as the battery voltage drops. If it's constant amperage then the already limited cooling will be almost non-existant in short order unless the battery is on a charging circuit.

-Bernie
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