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Old 03-16-2006, 06:28 AM   #1
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Question Cooling the frig and being level....

How level do I have to be to cool the frig without doing any damage to it? If you look at my pictures, there is one showing the Safari hooked up to the truck in our driveway. Our driveway is not level, and even when we unhook and lower, it's still not level. We cannot park in the street as we're the 5th house in a neighborhood of 100+ homes on the main road. And yes, I've already thought about moving, unfortunately it's not an option- -lol!
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Old 03-16-2006, 06:34 AM   #2
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Difficult to tell from your photo but it looks like your drive slopes to the house. If that's the case and you cannot lower the nose as suggested, why not raise the rear wheels onto a 2X10 or such and then try lowering the nose to level? Does that make sense?
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Old 03-16-2006, 06:39 AM   #3
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Leveling

Howdy,

By 'level', the refer manufacturers mean 'comfortable to live in'. It does not have to be perfect. This is necessary because the design of the cooling unit in the fridge requires gravity to help it work and the orientation of the tubing system in the back will not allow for full coolant flow if the unit isn't 'level'. I quess one could argue that 'comfort' depends on one's situation, but if you can walk around in your T/T and not think that you're in a Fun-House , then it's probably OK!
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Old 03-16-2006, 07:35 AM   #4
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From what I understand, it's not as critical with a new unit than an older one.
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Old 03-16-2006, 07:49 AM   #5
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I went to a Dometic seminar a few weeks back and the presenter stated if you have a round flue it is not that critical to have the unit level for cooling. He said if you can stand comfortably you can run the unit. Do you cool yours with 120 first then switch to gas? Next question is does anyone else use those little fans which are to help cool down the fridge?
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Old 03-16-2006, 07:59 AM   #6
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Thanks for the repsonses.

Yes, the drive does slope towards the house. Luckily, not enough that we bottom out at the bumper!

We do plug into the adaptor and into the house to cool the frig (well, only once-the only trip we've taken so far). We also ran off the electrics at the cg for the frig. Don't recall if we used the fan-although we do have it. Do you run it all the time or just in the beginning?
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Old 03-16-2006, 07:05 PM   #7
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Why did my Dometic quit?

I tried this on another thread--no answers. Can you help?

I fired up my '72-vintage Dometic with LP and it worked great for about a day, then completely quit cooling. Flame is still on, too. Is there anything I can do?
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Old 03-16-2006, 07:39 PM   #8
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Hello CK,
Yes, I too have a fridge fan, plus a fan on the coils.
For a fridge fan, I wired a real fan into the 12V. I use a small computer box fan, lasts forever and is almost silent!

Michael


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent
I went to a Dometic seminar a few weeks back and the presenter stated if you have a round flue it is not that critical to have the unit level for cooling. He said if you can stand comfortably you can run the unit. Do you cool yours with 120 first then switch to gas? Next question is does anyone else use those little fans which are to help cool down the fridge?
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Old 03-16-2006, 08:50 PM   #9
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Leveling old Dometics

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
From what I understand, it's not as critical with a new unit than an older one.
I definitely agree. In our previous 79 Ambassador, the Dometic RM100 fridge was very picky when it came to level. Just a little off and it would start to warm up, even when running on the "flame". The other fun part was choosing a surface to put the level on. They all seemed to disagree with each other. I finally went with the freezer shelf and a 9" torpedo level. That seemed to work best for that model.

Vince, try using such a level inside the freezer compartment instead of any levels mounted on the outside of the trailer. They might disagree. Our 79 had that problem. Be sure to check in both directions. Those old Dometics are touchy.

In such a "vintage" fridge, the 120VAC heater never seemed to cool as well as the flame, but that could be from electric heater element old age.
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Old 03-16-2006, 09:00 PM   #10
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We use a round level like this on the bottom shelf. If the bubble is touching the center ring, it's close enough.
Attached Images
File Type: bmp level2.bmp (259.2 KB, 63 views)
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Old 03-16-2006, 09:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince Brach
I tried this on another thread--no answers. Can you help?

I fired up my '72-vintage Dometic with LP and it worked great for about a day, then completely quit cooling. Flame is still on, too. Is there anything I can do?
Try taking off the orifice and clean it with alcohol anf then blow it out with an air compressor, that did the trick on my '65 dometic when it quit cooling last year.
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Old 03-16-2006, 09:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince Brach
I tried this on another thread--no answers. Can you help?

I fired up my '72-vintage Dometic with LP and it worked great for about a day, then completely quit cooling. Flame is still on, too. Is there anything I can do?
Vince,

Did you verify the intensity of the flame? As 65GT said, if you have a flame that is not generating sufficient output to properly heat the refrigerant in the cooling unit it just won't get cold. You should see a nice blue, robust flame. Also, gently place your hand on the heating section (above where the flame is) and then on the absorber coils in the center of the cooling unit. They should be about the same temp.......very warm to hot to the touch.
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Old 03-16-2006, 09:55 PM   #13
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Can you smell any ammonia around the unit?
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Old 03-16-2006, 11:32 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince Brach
I tried this on another thread--no answers. Can you help?

I fired up my '72-vintage Dometic with LP and it worked great for about a day, then completely quit cooling. Flame is still on, too. Is there anything I can do?
I had the same problem. I had my trailer in the driveway, ran the fridge on electric for 6 weeks then when I tried to run it on propane it would not cool. I cleaned the burner area and got the fridge to fire up but the flame would not ramp up and the flue got slightly warm but the fridge did not cool, same situation as you. Well I took my trailer to Jackson Center for a couple of upgrades in December and I asked them to check the fridge. The diagnosis, JC replaced my regulator, they said it was full of liquid propane. The factory claims it works fine now, I told them I did not want to find out two days after I leave JC that my fridge still doesn't work as my intention is to pick up the trailer in 3 weeks on my way down to Florida from Canada. The kicker is that JC replaced my regulator less than a year ago when I had furnace problems. I asked about the regulator being covered by warranty and they said it's not covered because it was full of liquid. Gee you would think that the regulator would have a drain hole to relieve any liquid buildup if this is something that can happen on occassion. It just sounds fishy to me, the original regulator lasts 8 years and the regulator they replaced last March lasts 6 months. By the way, while my fridge didn't work, my furnace worked great on propane. I'm going to freak if my fridge quits after I pick it up from Jackson Center. Maybe someone else has heard of this happening to their regulator and in turn reduced the gas pressure enough to prevent the fridge from working properly.
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