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Old 07-18-2011, 05:11 PM   #21
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Yes, mine has the baffle. It starts on the first try.

I can recommend the Snyder fan kit that I have on mine for $60 shipped. It greatly improved cooling in my old refrigerator and I moved it to my new one where it keeps mid-30s inside with 102 temp outside on AC operation. You need to pull the refrigerator out to install the kit on the fins, but because it is directly on the fins, it is much more efficient than fans mounted elsewhere. I can barely hear mine running.
My trfrigerator starts on the firsat try, but the water heater takes gives us some trouble sometime.

I like the idea of the Snyder kit, but I don't relish the idea of having to pull the refigerator.
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Old 07-18-2011, 05:38 PM   #22
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Snyder Cooling Fan

OK, I ordered the Snyder kit which means I'll have to bite the bullet and pull the refrigerator out onto the kitchen floor. The removal looks simple enough (gas line, 12V wires, 110V plug, two lag bolts on the back, and 5 screws around the front trim oanel). But my question is how heavy is the refrigerator. It isn't that high off of the floor, but I want to know what I'm up against so I know how many friends to invite over for a beer.
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:34 PM   #23
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I like the idea of the Snyder kit, but I don't relish the idea of having to pull the refigerator.
I pulled mine by myself and I am 78 years old. I simply built a wood box the height of the woodwork to fit under the refrigerator and slid the fridge out on the box after disconnecting the gas and electric.

I didn't have to pull it out completely ... when it was out far enough that I could swivel it enough to reach behind, that was good enough. The kit went in in minutes. Loosen two screws, slip the plenum in place and tighten the screws. Then clamp the thermostat to the pipe above the boiler. The wires simply hook in on the terminal block where the fridge gets 12v and ground. Total time, maybe 30 minutes.

The Snyder kit is so much more efficient than other fans that, to me, it is a no-brainer to go that way.
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:55 AM   #24
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I simply built a wood box the height of the woodwork to fit under the refrigerator and slid the fridge out on the box after disconnecting the gas and electric.
John,
BRILLIANT! Some time I get so wrapped up in the project / problem that I can't see the forest for the trees. I have a hydraulic lift I use for detailing and storing my motorcycle. That will work perfectly to support the refrigerator as it is slid out from the enclosure. ow all I have to do is wait o nthe UPS man to show up.
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Old 07-19-2011, 07:46 AM   #25
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It's A Small World

I just got through reading all the pages on the Snyder Refrigeration web site and found out they aren't even two hours away from where we live. I could have driven up and picked up the cooling kit.
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Old 07-19-2011, 08:22 AM   #26
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I might add that I used four of the slick plastic moving pads between the wood box and the vinyl floor. That made the box slide beautifully once the weight of the refrigerator was on the box.

A couple of photos of my fan installation can be seen on my Classic 28 thread at post #287.
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Old 07-20-2011, 04:13 PM   #27
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Water Heater Problem Solved

I replaced the spark ignitor on the Atwood electric/gas water heater and the water heater has been igniting and staying lit on the first spark.

I am waiting on the Snyder fan kit to arrive. Hopefully it comes soon, because we're heading out boondocking 07/29/2011.
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Old 07-21-2011, 11:48 AM   #28
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Low gas pressure!

I received the manometer by UPS yesterday afternoon. This morning, I filled it with water and hooked it up to the test port on the refrigerator. The pressure was only 8 3/4" of water column.

It took quite a bit of turning on the regulator diaphragm to get the pressure up to the proper 11". The flame is now noticeably larger.

I have it running on gas now with a starting temperature of 35 degrees inside. It is supposed to be about 99 degrees today. I'll check in the morning and see if it is holding temperature now.
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Old 07-21-2011, 01:35 PM   #29
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Old School Manometer

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I received the manometer by UPS yesterday afternoon. This morning, I filled it with water and hooked it up to the test port on the refrigerator. The pressure was only 8 3/4" of water column.

It took quite a bit of turning on the regulator diaphragm to get the pressure up to the proper 11". The flame is now noticeably larger.

I have it running on gas now with a starting temperature of 35 degrees inside. It is supposed to be about 99 degrees today. I'll check in the morning and see if it is holding temperature now.
John,
Did you get an "old school" glass tube manometer? Mine is just a rubber hose with a gauge that requires no water.

My regulator also took quite a few turns to get it up to 11" of water column. I forgot to count exactly how many.
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:38 AM   #30
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Success!

I turned the refrigerator over to propane operation at 9 am yesterday morning with the internal temperature probe reading 35 degrees. The probe usually varies a degree or two depending on whether the box is actively cooling at the moment.

It was 102 here yesterday, probably even hotter under the tin roof where the trailer is stored. This morning at 9 am, the internal probe read 36 degrees! For the first time, I have propane operation that actually keeps the box cold.

The low regulator pressure explains why the old refrigerator never did very well on propane either. I think the extra 1 1/2 cubic feet of space in the new refrigerator was the difference between just barely cooling and not cooling.
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:40 AM   #31
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John,
Did you get an "old school" glass tube manometer? Mine is just a rubber hose with a gauge that requires no water.
I actually prefer the glass tube version. I know that it is absolutely calibrated correctly no matter how old it may be or how roughly treated. It has a strong magnet at the top. I hung it on the steel post of the storage barn, beside the refrigerator lower opening.

The threads in the regulator must be very fine to have it turn so many rotations without bottoming out. I probably made at least 7 full turns to bring the pressure up.
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Old 07-22-2011, 08:54 AM   #32
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I turned the refrigerator over to propane operation at 9 am yesterday morning with the internal temperature probe reading 35 degrees. The probe usually varies a degree or two depending on whether the box is actively cooling at the moment.

It was 102 here yesterday, probably even hotter under the tin roof where the trailer is stored. This morning at 9 am, the internal probe read 36 degrees! For the first time, I have propane operation that actually keeps the box cold.

The low regulator pressure explains why the old refrigerator never did very well on propane either. I think the extra 1 1/2 cubic feet of space in the new refrigerator was the difference between just barely cooling and not cooling.
John,
Can you get the old refrigerator back as there probably was nothing wrong with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska View Post
I actually prefer the glass tube version. I know that it is absolutely calibrated correctly no matter how old it may be or how roughly treated. It has a strong magnet at the top. I hung it on the steel post of the storage barn, beside the refrigerator lower opening.

The threads in the regulator must be very fine to have it turn so many rotations without bottoming out. I probably made at least 7 full turns to bring the pressure up.
I did look at a digital manometer, but they were a little more than what I wanted to spend. I made sure mine was calibrated correctly by hooking it up to the LP tank second stage regulator that feeds the LP fireplace insert in the house. It was just replaced this spring and I knew it was correct becuase I watched the propane company technician install it and check it. My $33.00 analog manomoeter read exactly 11" of water column so I figured I was good to go when testing the Airstrem regulator.

Yes the threads are very fine on the rgulator. I was able to look in mine and they remind me of a fine machine thread. I should have bottomed out the adjustment just to see how much adjustment there was left before I have to purchase a new regulator.

I am glad to hear of your success.

I am waiting on the Snyder Refrigeration cooling kit. Hopefully it comes before next weekend becuase we're heading to New Your for a weekend of boon docking, winery tours, and tasting.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:24 AM   #33
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John,
Can you get the old refrigerator back as there probably was nothing wrong with it.
The old one lost all of its ammonia. Up until then, it was fine on AC operation and just a bit weak on propane. It was definitely DOA. I would have replaced the cooling unit in the old box except for needing to leave on a trip and could not wait for one.
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Old 07-25-2011, 06:39 PM   #34
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Snyder Refrigeration Cooling Kit

I got the Snyder Refrigeration cooling kit in the mail today and installed it. It was pretty straight forward. The tough part was pulling and replacing the refrigerator. Happly it was much lighter than I thought it would be. I used the hydraulic floor jack I use to detail my motorcycle with a piece of plywood mounted to it. It's running on electric now and I can hear the cooling fan purrrrrrrrring away. Once it gets down to temperature I will switch to gas and we'll see what happens. Stay tuned.

While I had the unit pulled out I figured I would clean the flu. It was a pleasant surprise to fine the flu clean as a whistle. I did discover one thing that has me wondering...There was no "baffle" in the flu. From what I read the baffle is in place to keep the heat generated from the LP flame from going up the flu too quickly. Does anybody know if their refrigerator is baffleless?
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Old 07-25-2011, 09:19 PM   #35
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While I had the unit pulled out I figured I would clean the flu. It was a pleasant surprise to fine the flu clean as a whistle. I did discover one thing that has me wondering...There was no "baffle" in the flu. From what I read the baffle is in place to keep the heat generated from the LP flame from going up the flu too quickly. Does anybody know if their refrigerator is baffleless?
I haven't pulled the new refrigerator out, but I did thread a stainless steel cable past the burner and up in the flue to see if there was a baffle in the flue. The cable encountered an obstacle a couple of inches above the burner which I believe must be the baffle. Yours should have a finger loop at the top of the flue with the baffle hanging from it.

My flue on the old refrigerator was also very clean after about 4 years without being cleaned out.

If I were you, I would either fashion a baffle or get one from a junk refrigerator.
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Old 07-26-2011, 07:51 AM   #36
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Cool Baffling - Pun Intended

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I haven't pulled the new refrigerator out, but I did thread a stainless steel cable past the burner and up in the flue to see if there was a baffle in the flue. The cable encountered an obstacle a couple of inches above the burner which I believe must be the baffle. Yours should have a finger loop at the top of the flue with the baffle hanging from it.

My flue on the old refrigerator was also very clean after about 4 years without being cleaned out.

If I were you, I would either fashion a baffle or get one from a junk refrigerator.
John,
Mine definitely has no baffle. I am hesitant to fabricate one or use one off of a junk refrigerator because they are all different lengths, different number of twists, and hang at different locations in the chimney.

Everybody seems to think it should have a baffle, but I contacted Dometic about it and this was their reply...

Quote:
Carl

No all fridges come with the flue baffle, it is an accessory because not all fridges need them. It primarily depends on the installation and layout of the coach itself.

If you are in need of any Dometic refrigerator or air conditioner or A& E awning parts you can call us at 1-800-544-4881 or purchase from any dealer or Camping World location.

If we can be of any future service do not hesitate to contact us. Thank you for choosing Dometic product lines.

Customer Support Center
Dometic LLC



To baffle or not to baffle, that is the question
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Old 07-26-2011, 08:15 AM   #37
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"To baffle or not to baffle, that is the question"?
Now that is a baffling question.
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:33 AM   #38
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Deitz and Pahaska,

This has been a very informative thread as my son and I experienced the very same poor performance on our way to Scout camp north of Santa Fe this summer. We will be working on our fridge and making the adjustments as you guys have done before going to the RV repair house. I have not had good experience with the repair places doing any better work than I could do myself. Plan is to do the frdge fixes and then work on re-calibrating the God Forsaken Micropulse? tank monitor system. Their instructions stink.
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Old 08-22-2011, 05:18 PM   #39
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Cooling Fan Did The Trick

Well I am hqappy to report that the cooling fans from Snyder Refrigeration did the trick. The weekend we went boondocking it was in the high 80s and the refrigerator remained at 38° F all day long on the number 3 setting. I am still going to order a flu baffle from Demetic and install it...once I get up the gumption to pull the refrigerator again...maybe next season. Why do today what I can put off until tomorrow
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