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Old 07-16-2011, 11:56 AM   #15
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I have been learning more about my fridge also and I just tried this trick this AM to get a look at the top coils of the unit.

I used a video camera with a swivel screen and an LED flashlight and took pictures and video of the upper coils. It was fairly easy to see the screen and move the light for the best illumination. I can't share any pics cause I left one cable at work, we'll see what they look like in detail later.

Cold food, safe + good. Cold brew = great. More to learn.
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Old 07-16-2011, 01:45 PM   #16
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Rick,

Where is there an LP pressure gauge on the old Excellas??? We have an '87 34' Excella 1000 and we don't have one.
on the 94 it is on the back of the fridge. maybe it was an add on?
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Old 07-16-2011, 02:54 PM   #17
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I have exhausted every approach except for testing the propane pressure. I ordered a manometer this morning. Hopefully, I will find poor gas pressure.

I get an occasional red light on the water heater, as well. That could be the same problem.

My previous refrigerator was not great on gas, either and the regulator is the main common thread between the two. The old refrigerator was 1 1/2 cu ft smaller than the new one and was just barely acceptable on gas from day one. Perhaps the new and bigger box was the proverbial straw that broke the camel's back. I always blamed the former refrigerator poor gas cooling on poor airflow without ever having checked gas pressure.
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Old 07-18-2011, 05:09 PM   #18
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John,
Our trailers are only a year apart in vintage. Does yours have the luann plywood baffle to reduce the dead space between the trailer's inner walls and the back of the refrigerator? Ours does and I'm thinking of installing the cooling fans to circulate more air up the "chimney" to boost the refrigerator efficiency.

My water heater is also a little persnickety. It's a gas / electric model and it doesn't get run too much on gas, but when I need it on gas, it rarely starts on the first go round. It tries three time before the little red light comes on and you have to reset the switch. I thought the gas pressure would solve the water heater problem too, but it didn't. It's still touchy when it tries to light. I have cleaned and repositioned the burner tube, ignitor, and thermocouple sensor with no improvement. Anybody have any other ideas?
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Old 07-18-2011, 05:14 PM   #19
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on the 94 it is on the back of the fridge. maybe it was an add on?
Rick,
That looks like an after market addition...but a good one. I don't know why they just don't make the regulators with the gauge attached. It would save us a lot of work
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Old 07-18-2011, 05:43 PM   #20
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John,
Our trailers are only a year apart in vintage. Does yours have the luann plywood baffle to reduce the dead space between the trailer's inner walls and the back of the refrigerator? Ours does and I'm thinking of installing the cooling fans to circulate more air up the "chimney" to boost the refrigerator efficiency.
Yes, mine has the baffle. It starts on the first try.

I can recommend the Snyder fan kit that I have on mine for $60 shipped. It greatly improved cooling in my old refrigerator and I moved it to my new one where it keeps mid-30s inside with 102 temp outside on AC operation. You need to pull the refrigerator out to install the kit on the fins, but because it is directly on the fins, it is much more efficient than fans mounted elsewhere. I can barely hear mine running.
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:11 PM   #21
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Yes, mine has the baffle. It starts on the first try.

I can recommend the Snyder fan kit that I have on mine for $60 shipped. It greatly improved cooling in my old refrigerator and I moved it to my new one where it keeps mid-30s inside with 102 temp outside on AC operation. You need to pull the refrigerator out to install the kit on the fins, but because it is directly on the fins, it is much more efficient than fans mounted elsewhere. I can barely hear mine running.
My trfrigerator starts on the firsat try, but the water heater takes gives us some trouble sometime.

I like the idea of the Snyder kit, but I don't relish the idea of having to pull the refigerator.
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:38 PM   #22
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Snyder Cooling Fan

OK, I ordered the Snyder kit which means I'll have to bite the bullet and pull the refrigerator out onto the kitchen floor. The removal looks simple enough (gas line, 12V wires, 110V plug, two lag bolts on the back, and 5 screws around the front trim oanel). But my question is how heavy is the refrigerator. It isn't that high off of the floor, but I want to know what I'm up against so I know how many friends to invite over for a beer.
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:34 PM   #23
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I like the idea of the Snyder kit, but I don't relish the idea of having to pull the refigerator.
I pulled mine by myself and I am 78 years old. I simply built a wood box the height of the woodwork to fit under the refrigerator and slid the fridge out on the box after disconnecting the gas and electric.

I didn't have to pull it out completely ... when it was out far enough that I could swivel it enough to reach behind, that was good enough. The kit went in in minutes. Loosen two screws, slip the plenum in place and tighten the screws. Then clamp the thermostat to the pipe above the boiler. The wires simply hook in on the terminal block where the fridge gets 12v and ground. Total time, maybe 30 minutes.

The Snyder kit is so much more efficient than other fans that, to me, it is a no-brainer to go that way.
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Old 07-19-2011, 06:55 AM   #24
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I simply built a wood box the height of the woodwork to fit under the refrigerator and slid the fridge out on the box after disconnecting the gas and electric.
John,
BRILLIANT! Some time I get so wrapped up in the project / problem that I can't see the forest for the trees. I have a hydraulic lift I use for detailing and storing my motorcycle. That will work perfectly to support the refrigerator as it is slid out from the enclosure. ow all I have to do is wait o nthe UPS man to show up.
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Old 07-19-2011, 08:46 AM   #25
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It's A Small World

I just got through reading all the pages on the Snyder Refrigeration web site and found out they aren't even two hours away from where we live. I could have driven up and picked up the cooling kit.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:22 AM   #26
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I might add that I used four of the slick plastic moving pads between the wood box and the vinyl floor. That made the box slide beautifully once the weight of the refrigerator was on the box.

A couple of photos of my fan installation can be seen on my Classic 28 thread at post #287.
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Old 07-20-2011, 05:13 PM   #27
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Water Heater Problem Solved

I replaced the spark ignitor on the Atwood electric/gas water heater and the water heater has been igniting and staying lit on the first spark.

I am waiting on the Snyder fan kit to arrive. Hopefully it comes soon, because we're heading out boondocking 07/29/2011.
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:48 PM   #28
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Low gas pressure!

I received the manometer by UPS yesterday afternoon. This morning, I filled it with water and hooked it up to the test port on the refrigerator. The pressure was only 8 3/4" of water column.

It took quite a bit of turning on the regulator diaphragm to get the pressure up to the proper 11". The flame is now noticeably larger.

I have it running on gas now with a starting temperature of 35 degrees inside. It is supposed to be about 99 degrees today. I'll check in the morning and see if it is holding temperature now.
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