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Old 03-19-2011, 05:08 PM   #15
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Thanks for the great advice pro and con. If I was paying cash out my own pocket I think I would try the upside down idea and see if I could bare a low cooling unit for a while. But since the mold is a big issue and I also have credit card points (home depot gift card) to use when buying the refer, I am really not using up my "Airstream improvements" budget. I know that it may not last but healthy and cheap refer for short term it probably the direction I will go.

I am curious, those of you that have used a compact refer. Did you fully enclose / seal it in? This would mean relying on the heat vent and the floor vent to dissipate heat to the outside. Or did you seal up the vents and allow the heat to vent into the living space?

Thanks again to you all for great responses, I love the Airstream community, so helpful!
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Old 03-19-2011, 05:13 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 28totow View Post
I know this may sound crazy, but if the ref has not lost it's amonia gas charge, completely disconnect the ref, take it out and turn it upside-down and let sit for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs., turn right-side up and hook it up and see if it works. I have talked to a number of people that swear they have done this and ref has come back to life. It's at least worth a try. Good luck.
Sounds like giving more life to a laser printer by shaking the cartridge
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Old 03-19-2011, 05:25 PM   #17
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We use our propane option for the fridge MUCH more than I would have imagined. It's so nice if you're staying in Wal-marts for even one day of your journey. It provides flexibility. I don't have experience with having a home unit though.
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Old 03-20-2011, 07:21 AM   #18
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On the question of venting, It would be better to ust the existing floor and ceiling vents. I didn't but then I had replaced the subfloor and the PO had sealed the roof vent with a plug. The refer works fine using the entire space under the cabinets. But then this adds to my A/C load. As far as noise, I snore much louder than the refrig.

By the way, I like the Danfoss marine idea. I might work that direction eventually. FWIW, my wife says the gas appliances bother her allergies.

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Old 03-20-2011, 09:52 AM   #19
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28totow has a valid point

Quote:
Originally Posted by 28totow View Post
I know this may sound crazy, but if the ref has not lost it's amonia gas charge, completely disconnect the ref, take it out and turn it upside-down and let sit for 24 hrs. After 24 hrs., turn right-side up and hook it up and see if it works. I have talked to a number of people that swear they have done this and ref has come back to life. It's at least worth a try. Good luck.
If you still have your fridge, this is something you can try for free to see if your refer can be resuscitated. It's called "burping".

If that doesn't work, there are companies that will sell you new "guts" for your unit, thus allowing you to keep both the original look, AND functions.

It's worth looking into. At the very least, if there is any way that you can keep the old refer so that if you ever decide to change TTs, it will be very likely be a worthwhile item for the next buyer...
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Old 03-20-2011, 12:23 PM   #20
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Then I took some SO .040 and hand formed it to the curved door edges......... The SO polished up too.
Man, I haven't heard the "SO" term for years. I guess we are "Old Timers"
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:53 PM   #21
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Danfoss refrigerator

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Actually, they cost significantly LESS!

Very low amp draw, excellent cooling/freezing (no more RV soft-serve ice cream ) and are built to take a eating and can run 30* off level. They sure have my vote!
Lewster,
Do you have a Danfoss unit? I am thinking about trying to build my own refrigerator with a Danfoss compressor kit so that I can mount the compressor coils in the current refrigerator chimney of my 1980 Caravelle and move the refrigerator away from the door a few feet. To save energy, I've been trying to imagine ways to get a top loader or drawer system to work with a super insulated cabinet. I've read that a lot of cold air falls out of the box when a front loader is opened and that drawers or top loaders reduce the overall energy load tremendously. However I can see the top loader being a pain in a vehicle with limited counter space. It would be much easier to build a super insulated top loader though.
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:11 PM   #22
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So

What is SO .040?

Dave


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I put a Kenmore compact refrigerator in. Dimensions were almost the same...I had to elevate it about one inch and used that brace as the attach to the floor Then I took some SO .040 and hand formed it to the curved door edges. Then, for the "Airstream" of it...I used Olympics (way more than needed) around the edges to give it the appropriate look. The SO polished up too.
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:17 PM   #23
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We carried a small 110 frig in our popups for many years. We put blue ice in the freezer section and just left it there. We could go a full day and sometimes 2 days traveling and stuff would still be cold. Does tie you to sites with electricity if that is an issue. I would go that route for a while. You might like it.
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:24 PM   #24
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Before you throw out the old one

Regarding the original fridge, even if it has suffered a mortal hit (the cooling system leaked) the guts of all those refers can be replaced. I won't say cheaply, but for far less than a new RV refer can be purchased.

Just a thought. Even though you may think it's a piece of junk right now, you may find yourself changing your mind at some point further on. The door staining can be overcome.

If you really think it's not for you, then please offer the old one here, you will get takers. Just put up a free message on our Classifieds...
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Old 04-04-2011, 05:30 PM   #25
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I have a DanFoss unit in my Liner. I like it and did not have to cut any holes in the side for ventilation. You do need someway to keep your batteries charges, since they are 100% electric. I opted for solar panels. In addition, since there is a compressor they are noisy, especially compared to the silent ammonia absorption type. On the plus side, they cool down very quickly.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by timzog View Post
Lewster,
Do you have a Danfoss unit? I am thinking about trying to build my own refrigerator with a Danfoss compressor kit so that I can mount the compressor coils in the current refrigerator chimney of my 1980 Caravelle and move the refrigerator away from the door a few feet. To save energy, I've been trying to imagine ways to get a top loader or drawer system to work with a super insulated cabinet. I've read that a lot of cold air falls out of the box when a front loader is opened and that drawers or top loaders reduce the overall energy load tremendously. However I can see the top loader being a pain in a vehicle with limited counter space. It would be much easier to build a super insulated top loader though.
Thanks
Tim
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:34 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timzog View Post
Lewster,
Do you have a Danfoss unit? I am thinking about trying to build my own refrigerator with a Danfoss compressor kit so that I can mount the compressor coils in the current refrigerator chimney of my 1980 Caravelle and move the refrigerator away from the door a few feet. To save energy, I've been trying to imagine ways to get a top loader or drawer system to work with a super insulated cabinet. I've read that a lot of cold air falls out of the box when a front loader is opened and that drawers or top loaders reduce the overall energy load tremendously. However I can see the top loader being a pain in a vehicle with limited counter space. It would be much easier to build a super insulated top loader though.
Thanks
Tim
HI Tim,

I currently have a Danfoss portable top loader and it functions very well. I am almost at the point of getting a 9 Cu/ft front door unit to replace the Dometic in my MoHo. I wouldn't worry too much about the loss of cold air as the Danfoss is very efficient and will re-cool the unit quickly. This in direct opposition to an ammonia RV fridge, which requires an hour to replace the cooled air for every MINUTE that the front door is open!!

I have also considered a remote mount kit, but I have plenty of room in the new coach for a complete unit.
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Old 04-05-2011, 02:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
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What is SO .040?

Dave
It's 0.040 of whatever-was-lying-around-the-shop-that-looked-right for the job.
Aka "shop order".
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