Blank slate fridge options

[kevinkatz]

Appreciate advice. Building a 1949 Curtis Wright total renovation so I have infinite options. My only self imposed limitation is that I don’t want a roof vent, only sidewall. No larger than 3 cu ft. Small.
Propane/electric. Advantage of boondocking on gas. Limitation is complicated venting (can’t find great information on this). How big an issue is the fact that it takes a good while to cool down on start up? What about being level?
Electric only. Are the vitrifrigio and norcold much better insulated than an apartment type fridge? I am aware of the bouncing discussion.
I will have portable solar but don’t really want to ruin the vintage with a whole lot of rooftop. Possibly 2 6v agm or a 12v lithium.
I would appreciate y’alls opinions and especially guidance on the sidewall venting set up in the event I decide to do propane.

[kidjedi]

Since you are building from scratch, you have the advantage of being able to double the insulation of the fridge by insulating the framing that holds it. Use polyisocyanurate panels (available at Lowe's/Home Depot) and seal all gaps with foil tape. PIC is better than styrofoam or polystyrene and nearly impervious to moisture.

The "startup" cooling issue you mention can be mitigated by using a block of ice (or multiple ice packs, which allows more strategic packing) at the beginning of a trip.

Also, be sure to install silent 12v fans for venting. I initially used some computer fans I had lying around, but eventually swapped them out for some quieter computer fans, as the "average" ones were much louder than I expected, especially at night. It's good to put a thermostat on the fans, but I also installed a switch, so I can turn them off manually when the fridge is not in use, and the ambient temperature is high.

I know this information doesn't help with "which fridge," but the information can be applied to any and all.

I think technology is getting to a place where *just* electric can be a realistic option, even when boondocking (especially with solar), but I still think having the propane option is best if you plan on doing even a modest amount of boondocking.


Also, I would *NOT* go with a regular apartment/office/dorm fridge. Build quality is low on those to begin with, and the problems are only compounded when you put them in something subjected to huge temperature fluctuations and vibration.


You also mention having to level the fridge, which is a very real thing. I've been surprised by how finicky those sensors can be. I considered building an internal leveling system for just the fridge, but ultimately, especially with such a small trailer, I think it's best to just get the rig leveled properly when you camp.



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[Prettygood]

The super low voltage needs of the newer compressor fridges seem like a great option for what you want... no venting, consistent performance, and made for an RV’s vibrations. If you go with a great battery bank, no need to worry even without much if any solar up top.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by Prettygood

The super low voltage needs of the newer compressor fridges seem like a great option for what you want... no venting, consistent performance, and made for an RV’s vibrations. If you go with a great battery bank, no need to worry even without much if any solar up top.

Unless I am mistaken (possible) the compressor fridges still need venting. The heat that is removed from the inside of the fridge has to go somewhere.

I decided that if/when my propane fridge fails I will probably replace it with a Vitrifrigo. Switz has two trailers, each with a version of the Vitrifrigo. He has a lot of solar, but the specified drain of the larger Vitrifrigo is 5.4A at 12V. Switz reported about a 33% duty cycle in 90 degree full sun environment. That is just over 500 watt hours or 43 amp hours per day. Using 4 effective solar hours and an MPPT controller, 200 watts of panels would give you some margin for cloudy days.

In my case a couple of hours of generator operation every two days (with 100AH of usable battery capacity) would also work.

Just my rambling thoughts on the matter.....

Al

[DKB_SATX]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

Unless I am mistaken (possible) the compressor fridges still need venting. The heat that is removed from the inside of the fridge has to go somewhere.

I decided that if/when my propane fridge fails I will probably replace it with a Vitrifrigo. Switz has two trailers, each with a version of the Vitrifrigo. He has a lot of solar, but the specified drain of the larger Vitrifrigo is 5.4A at 12V. Switz reported about a 33% duty cycle in 90 degree full sun environment. That is just over 500 watt hours or 43 amp hours per day. Using 4 effective solar hours and an MPPT controller, 200 watts of panels would give you some margin for cloudy days.

In my case a couple of hours of generator operation every two days (with 100AH of usable battery capacity) would also work.

Just my rambling thoughts on the matter.....

Al

Danfoss fridges are VASTLY more efficient than ammonia absorption fridges (hence less waste heat) and there's no CO to deal with so venting to outdoors isn't necessary. You WILL have a bit more heat indoors than you would if you didn't have a fridge at all, but I doubt it would be anywhere near enough to make you want to cut a hole in the side of a vintage trailer. Good general circulation around the fridge and the same general venting you'd want to make the trailer comfy for humans should do nicely.

[Prettygood]

Agree with DKB. The new Airstream’s fridge has no exterior venting, only some internal airflow is needed. From what I read about the draw, it could be much less per day than 43ah.