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07-26-2006, 12:58 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1959 26' Overlander
Hill Country
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 96
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Anyone out there with refer as old as mine?
I have an original LP-only Dometic in my trailer, with "the dreaded Klixon valve." The outside and inside of refer are in fairly good condition, though, and as I was suckered into buying a trailer that needed a complete ground-up restore, I am truly hoping to avoid the $1000 purchase of a new refer!
Klixon valve seems to operate OK on lighting, and unit cools down quickly. Gas won't stay on for a prolonged period, however. I have found diagrams and operating instructions online (VAC website), am trying to figure out if my burner and valve assembly are all there, and if the aluminum "tongue" on the Klixon valve is in the right place. Below are some pics. If anyone out there has (or has had and remembers!) this type of unit, please look at these closely and tell me what you think. (The burner nose is what doesn't look exactly like the diagrams I found, to me. Tongue location seems about right, but not sure.)
Thanks for any input on troubleshooting.
__________________
Lynne
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07-26-2006, 02:54 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
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From what I can tell - it looks all there - I had one and the ceramic burner was cracked and therefore useless.......
Ken J.
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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08-06-2006, 08:05 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
1959 22' Flying Cloud
Currently Looking...
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 172
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any tips for starting this refrigerator?
We just purchased a 1959 18 footer. I think I have this same fridge, but I haven't been able to light it yet. I know that LPG is flowing to the valve (I loosened the fitting just before the pilot light). No flame! Help!
Ryan.
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08-07-2006, 12:59 AM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1959 26' Overlander
Hill Country
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 96
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Klixon valve
We had to hold flame on the round metal valve (with round collar of aluminum around metal disk, aluminum tongue extending over burner) for a LOOONG time, more than 5 minutes, it seemed like, until it "clicked" open and gas came on. Of course,it was really cold that day, and we were using a butane lighter, not the mineral spirits-on-a-rag torch described in directions....
My problem is KEEPING the gas on.
__________________
Lynne
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08-07-2006, 01:14 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1965 17' Caravel
1968 28' Ambassador
Butte
, Montana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,201
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My guess would be that you are not getting enough heat to the plate to keep the valve open.
I have a Dometic that is 6 yrs newer than yours and is propane only as well.
I had to adjust my thermocouple to keep my fridge on when I first got it goin.
Do you have any sort of baffle or wind break to keep the air from moving by the valve/plate ?
If there is any air movement around the plate it could affect the operation. As in not letting it stay hot enough.
Just a thought.....
__________________
AIR # 7276, WBCCI # 7276
Project 2k5
Life is a journey, not a destination
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08-07-2006, 10:24 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka
, California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
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1959Newbee, Chris is right on with his suggestions. The Baffle is important. I am enclosing a picture of the baffle on my trailer when I got it. I have make some small changes when I restored. However is close to what you will see in this picture. I also tore mine apart because the box need some work. I could share some of that with you if you want. Another thing I would check. Here goes one of those descriptions that may not to clear. There is a small metal piece that is about 1/2" wide and 1 1/4" long that is located just over the top of the burner. It heats up and transfers the heat to the unit that controls the auto shut off valve on the system. In your picture it appears to be to close to the burner. In the infor you downloaded on the Dometic there should be a distance measurement for the spacing between the burner and this piece of metal. I have a diagram that shows this measurement If you don't have it. The Dometic is well worth working with. Ours will make Ice from turn on with in 2 to 3 hours. Our refer at home won't do that. If you move the metal piece be very careful that you don't break it.
Don
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08-07-2006, 11:32 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
1959 22' Flying Cloud
Currently Looking...
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 172
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we have flame!
Thanks to suggestions from this thread and a helpful tech at www.rvmobile.com we have flame. I held the butane lighter so the flame was running up the vertical round disk (thermocouple?). After maybe two eternal minutes, click! The burner lit up.
Now the problem is, it was too late in the day to leave it on long enough to get cold.
My question is, how long till it get's cold? We had it on maybe 20 minutes without any cold. I read in an earlier thread ice in 2-3 hours. Any ideas?
Ryan.
ps. interesting info on this burner:
http://www.rvmobile.com/TECH/TROUBLE/klixon.htm
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08-07-2006, 11:52 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1963 16' Bambi
1962 22' Safari
Yreka
, California
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,937
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If it lights, but doesn't get cold...
Hello,
If it lights, but once you leave it on awhile and if it still doesn't get cold, try "burping" your refrig!
You might check this thread... you will have to read part way to get a good explaination of how it works...
http://www.airforums.com/forum...tor-23119.html
It may or may not solve your problem, but it is a no cost potential "fix".
Mrs. NorCal Bambi (traveling in S Tardis)
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08-08-2006, 12:01 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1965 17' Caravel
1968 28' Ambassador
Butte
, Montana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r&kweber
My question is, how long till it get's cold? We had it on maybe 20 minutes without any cold. I read in an earlier thread ice in 2-3 hours. Any ideas?
Ryan.
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It takes mine a full 24 hrs to get down to temp. FYI
__________________
AIR # 7276, WBCCI # 7276
Project 2k5
Life is a journey, not a destination
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08-08-2006, 08:26 AM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1959 26' Overlander
Hill Country
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 96
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Ryan: YEA! Glad you got the Klixon to click! I'm interested to hear how things progress.
Don: the drawings I found are actually pretty vague on relationship of aluminum tongue to flame, so if you have something with a measurement, I'd really appreciate seeing it.
Does anyone know the best procedures for cleaning out the burner assembly? I know that the double ceramic burner noses are irreplaceable, so I've been nervous about messing with them.
__________________
Lynne
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08-08-2006, 08:59 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka
, California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1959newbie
Ryan: YEA! Glad you got the Klixon to click! I'm interested to hear how things progress.
Don: the drawings I found are actually pretty vague on relationship of aluminum tongue to flame, so if you have something with a measurement, I'd really appreciate seeing it.
Does anyone know the best procedures for cleaning out the burner assembly? I know that the double ceramic burner noses are irreplaceable, so I've been nervous about messing with them.
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Try this file for Dometic info. http://airstream.net/members/documen...%20Dometic.pdf
To clean the burner try blowing it out with compresse air. It improved mine. Question: How much rust is present in the burner area?
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08-10-2006, 04:51 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1956 30' Sovereign of the Road
1963 16' Bambi
Southeastern Area
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,116
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Get your Klixon manual here
For all of us with the "dreaded Klixon valve” on the older of the Dometics, maybe this will help. I’ve posted a scan of the Dometic 1960 user manual including a supplement sheet on burner and Klixon tongue adjustment at Dometic 1960 LPG Manual. This is a Yahoo photos link, so the JPEGS have been resized by Yahoo. If you copy and paste to your PC and enlarge them, they are a bit easier to read.
I haven't even had a chance to test mine yet, so I have no knowledge base on how to manage these old refers, but the PO had used it a few months ago and said lighting with the rod and methylated spirits was the way to go.
Dacia
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08-10-2006, 10:28 PM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member
1959 22' Flying Cloud
Currently Looking...
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 172
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Thanks for posting the manual
That was a fun read. Now I know how to make ice the proper way!
I hope to have enough time tomorrow or saturday to let refrigerator get cold. I'm expecting a refrigerator burping in my future.
Ryan.
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08-13-2006, 09:24 AM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
1959 22' Flying Cloud
Currently Looking...
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 172
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Refrigerator gets cold!
Lit the refrigerator 6pm last night. After placing a smoke alarm in the trailer and telling the refrigerator to behave, we left it on overnight. Just checked the thermometer 14 hours later, 24 degrees F!
After a victory woohoo!, turned the thermostat down to 5.
Thanks again for all your help!
Ryan.
now on to the furnace pilot light problem...
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08-13-2006, 09:36 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1956 30' Sovereign of the Road
1963 16' Bambi
Southeastern Area
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,116
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Yea, Ryan! I only hope I can have a similar experience. If not, then I'll be back for your advice!
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09-02-2006, 01:15 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
Folsom
, California
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 727
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okay, I spent the day yesterday (when I should have been working) trying to light the the refrigerator's klixon valve - never lit, never clicked . . . then read as much as I could and came to the conclusion that "if the klixon won't click, your refrigerator is sh . . . toast".
Anyway, today I walked past my butane torch . . . I was very careful not to melt the whole works and after a few seconds under the torch it lit. I didn't hear a "click" but there were cars going by and I don't know how loud the "click" is supposed be but it did light and is still lit. I guess it takes a day to see if the frig is going to get cold.
Yesterday when I was trying to get it lit the "correct way", I eventually started messing with the adjustment of the stones where the flame comes out so I have no idea if I have too much or little flame . . . I read the literature and my thermostat doesn't seem to effect the size of the flame . . . does anyone know whether raising or lowering the stones with the adjustment screw increases the flame?
Also, I've got the refrigerator detached from the floor/wall so I can get to the whole back side. I'd like to take it all apart to do any cleaning/maintenance that might need to be done - anyone know what should be done or shouldn't be touched?
As always, thanks for your help and I'm so glad this forum is here.
__________________
Aluminumbskull with Led Balloon in Drag
***
Birch Plywood and Aluminum go together like
Peanut Butter and Chocolate
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09-02-2006, 06:29 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1956 30' Sovereign of the Road
1963 16' Bambi
Southeastern Area
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,116
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Mark, I finally got around to lighting mine Friday too. Took an agonizingly long couple of minutes with the lighting rod and denatured alcohol, but I finally heard was a sputtering pop, then I had flame. I wasn't very loud. My thermostat does have a minimal effect on flame height, but it was difficult to see the difference until after dark. I left mine on all night. This morning the flame was still burning, no ice, no cold, no temperature change. I guess troubleshooting and "burping" is next. I'm not looking forward to it.
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09-03-2006, 03:22 AM
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#18
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2 Rivet Member
Commercial Member
Currently Looking...
east stroudsburg
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1959newbie
Ryan: YEA! Glad you got the Klixon to click! I'm interested to hear how things progress.
Don: the drawings I found are actually pretty vague on relationship of aluminum tongue to flame, so if you have something with a measurement, I'd really appreciate seeing it.
Does anyone know the best procedures for cleaning out the burner assembly? I know that the double ceramic burner noses are irreplaceable, so I've been nervous about messing with them.
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You can take the burner assembly out and remove the orfice. The opening is very small, and a orfice bit set or a welders tip cleaner set is needed to clean it. You can also adjust the flame by spinning the assembly after you loosen the lock rings. As for people that have one of these units and the burner is broken, you can adapt another style burner to the refrigerator. I've restored a few of these that had broken ceramics.
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09-03-2006, 03:25 AM
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#19
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2 Rivet Member
Commercial Member
Currently Looking...
east stroudsburg
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkR
okay, I spent the day yesterday (when I should have been working) trying to light the the refrigerator's klixon valve - never lit, never clicked . . . then read as much as I could and came to the conclusion that "if the klixon won't click, your refrigerator is sh . . . toast".
Anyway, today I walked past my butane torch . . . I was very careful not to melt the whole works and after a few seconds under the torch it lit. I didn't hear a "click" but there were cars going by and I don't know how loud the "click" is supposed be but it did light and is still lit. I guess it takes a day to see if the frig is going to get cold.
Yesterday when I was trying to get it lit the "correct way", I eventually started messing with the adjustment of the stones where the flame comes out so I have no idea if I have too much or little flame . . . I read the literature and my thermostat doesn't seem to effect the size of the flame . . . does anyone know whether raising or lowering the stones with the adjustment screw increases the flame?
Also, I've got the refrigerator detached from the floor/wall so I can get to the whole back side. I'd like to take it all apart to do any cleaning/maintenance that might need to be done - anyone know what should be done or shouldn't be touched?
As always, thanks for your help and I'm so glad this forum is here.
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no, it does'nt give you more gas volume, just the air mix. the orfice inside the burner regulates how much gas comes out.
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09-03-2006, 03:28 AM
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#20
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2 Rivet Member
Commercial Member
Currently Looking...
east stroudsburg
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sugarfoot
Mark, I finally got around to lighting mine Friday too. Took an agonizingly long couple of minutes with the lighting rod and denatured alcohol, but I finally heard was a sputtering pop, then I had flame. I wasn't very loud. My thermostat does have a minimal effect on flame height, but it was difficult to see the difference until after dark. I left mine on all night. This morning the flame was still burning, no ice, no cold, no temperature change. I guess troubleshooting and "burping" is next. I'm not looking forward to it.
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Is the flame big enough? It should be blue, with small spikes coming from the center, be about 1/2 inch tall and shaped like a hersey kiss.
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