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Old 02-13-2007, 12:30 AM   #1
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Adding a fridge vent

I'm adding a chimney for the fridge vent on the Ambassador.

I purchased a modern vent collar and cover. In order to center it properly above the fridge, the hole I make for it will have to span a rib.

I noticed the factory service door for the fridge was also put in with a rib running into it by 1/3rd of the way.

I don't imagine it being a problem, I'll just notch the collar around the rib when I cut my opening around the rib.

Anyone else run into this before?
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Old 02-13-2007, 06:04 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
I'm adding a chimney for the fridge vent on the Ambassador.

I purchased a modern vent collar and cover. In order to center it properly above the fridge, the hole I make for it will have to span a rib.

I noticed the factory service door for the fridge was also put in with a rib running into it by 1/3rd of the way.

I don't imagine it being a problem, I'll just notch the collar around the rib when I cut my opening around the rib.

Anyone else run into this before?
To restore the support, you should add a "horizontal stringer" at the top and bottom of the door frame, that connects to both main bows, and the bow that you cut. Rivet the stringers to all three main bows, and to the inside metal as well as the outside metal. Rivet as much as you can, to the stringers, the access door frame.

You now have created a "box" type support, that is stronger than the original design.

If you do not add the stringers, in time, the side wall at the access door will start bulging.

Remember, the shell does twist and tweek. Without proper support, it will do that one time too many, and then stay that way. That becomes bad news.

Andy
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Old 02-13-2007, 07:29 PM   #3
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Your depth of detail addressing Tim's question is just too cool, Andy.

Thanks.

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Old 02-23-2007, 06:41 PM   #4
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I'm not trying to hijack this thread but it is also a fridge vent question. Why does Airstream mount a fridge vent duct to the interior skin. Is there any good reason not to seal the cavity between the interior and exterior skins and use that sealed up space for the fridge vent.
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Old 02-23-2007, 06:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
I'm not trying to hijack this thread but it is also a fridge vent question. Why does Airstream mount a fridge vent duct to the interior skin. Is there any good reason not to seal the cavity between the interior and exterior skins and use that sealed up space for the fridge vent.
There's not enough volume of air between the skins to act as an effective fridge vent. The cooling action of the coils is by convection, so adequate airflow is key.
Also, the sun's heat on the outer skin might not be a good idea to be right next to the fridge coils, without insulation.
I had the same thoughts when I built my trailer, but dismissed the idea for the above reasons.
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Old 02-23-2007, 07:10 PM   #6
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I went hafsies with my refrig vent. I recessed it into the wall, but also built it out by about 3".

That gives you a full 4.75" 22" channel for adequate airflow. Heating of the outside skin as long as it is above the condenser is not a problem.

The advantages, in my opinion, are a thinner and more attractive scoop, and you gain 2" of aisle space.
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Old 02-23-2007, 09:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
I went hafsies with my refrig vent. I recessed it into the wall, but also built it out by about 3".

That gives you a full 4.75" 22" channel for adequate airflow. Heating of the outside skin as long as it is above the condenser is not a problem.

The advantages, in my opinion, are a thinner and more attractive scoop, and you gain 2" of aisle space.
Nicely done Mark. Wish I had thought of it.
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Old 02-23-2007, 09:03 PM   #8
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I guess I'm going to have to start a new thread, how to make a chimney :-)

Still waiting for my pictures Don... lol

I've about decided to make it out of wood anyway. I'm not that great a woodworker and even a worse metal worker!
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Old 02-23-2007, 09:12 PM   #9
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Still waiting for my pictures Don... lol
Gee, I sent them to you last friday at your VAP address, and they didn't bounce. I just sent them again. Four pics. Let me know.
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Old 02-23-2007, 09:33 PM   #10
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Thanks everyone I knew there had to be a reason other then ease of manufacturing and cost. I believe I will go the "halvies" route also.
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Old 02-23-2007, 11:13 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by markdoane
Gee, I sent them to you last friday at your VAP address, and they didn't bounce. I just sent them again. Four pics. Let me know.
Oops! My bad. All my VAP mail runs through googles gmail and they thought you were spam .

I got it now.

Sorry for the goof up!
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Old 02-23-2007, 11:36 PM   #12
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Are you telling me that everything gmail sees that isn't a gmail address is spam?

I'd get rid of it if I were you. What good is an email server that sends everything to the junk folder?
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Old 02-24-2007, 12:12 AM   #13
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Not at all.

In the few months I've been using it, yours is only the second email that I expected that went in the spam folder.

-Tim

Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Are you telling me that everything gmail sees that isn't a gmail address is spam?

I'd get rid of it if I were you. What good is an email server that sends everything to the junk folder?
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Old 02-24-2007, 04:37 AM   #14
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I'm curious what filter they used when they decided my message was spam.
Do you think it was the number of attachments?
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