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Old 05-16-2013, 10:19 AM   #99
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Good luck with the installation of the replacement cooling unit. I hope it fits without modifications, goes in easy and and you have no further issues. Are you going to stay with the Dometic controller board? I see that site offers the Dinosaur replacement boards but i'm not sure if you fridge has one.

I watched a youTube video of someone replacing their cooling unit for a Norcold double door in a motorhome with one of these 'Amish' units. He built a an elevated framed plaform the same height of the fridge base and slide the fridge out onto it and then screwed it down onto the platform. He replaced the cooling unit inside the motorhome and after the installation leveled the platform and ran a test using AC to test it before installing the fridge back into its hole.

I hope you can take some photos of the process to share with us

Kelvin
From what I have seen, the 'Amish' units are nothing but another re-built replacement cooling unit done to the original OEM unit. They are not a magic bullet and are prone to failure just like any of the others...... including newly manufactured units purchased directly from Dometic or Norcold. As a factory authorized service center for both Norcold and Dometic, I only use new factory cooling units as I have encountered warranty and replacement problems with aftermarket units.

I also use a hydraulic table to remove and replace a fridge after I R&R the cooling unit. Allows me to do it single handed. I have never had to remove a fridge from an RV for a cooling unit replacement.

I use Dinosaur boards exclusively as replacements for the OEM boards, which are usually made in China. Enough said!
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:18 AM   #100
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After browsing the recoilingunit site for my fridge, Dometic 3762, they only offer a new unit which is a redesign of the Dometic unit. It would be interesting if someone performed a face off to see if the Amish unit redesign and ammonia formula gives better warm weather performance. With only two manufacturers left in the marketplace there isn't much incentive to innovate. Atwood is offering a fridge with helium but isn't helium in very short supply?

Do the Dinosaur boards allow you to tweak the fridge performance better than the OEM boards? Unfortunately, they don't seem to offer a replacement board for my Dometic 3762 board 3851005011.

Kelvin
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:25 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
After browsing the recoilingunit site for my fridge, Dometic 3762, they only offer a new unit which is a redesign of the Dometic unit. It would be interesting if someone performed a face off to see if the Amish unit redesign and ammonia formula gives better warm weather performance. With only two manufacturers left in the marketplace there isn't much incentive to innovate. Atwood is offering a fridge with helium but isn't helium in very short supply?

Do the Dinosaur boards allow you to tweak the fridge performance better than the OEM boards?

Kelvin
Some Dinosaur boards have a temperature regulator located right on the board (mostly designed for the Dometic units with no temp control) that allow you to adjust the cooling level in the fridge.)

I still feel that your best bet is to install a bank of 12VDC computer fans located at the top vent (either wall or roof) to PULL the hot air across the condenser, being certain that the hot air is actually being drawn out of the plenum and not getting stuck circulating around the condenser area.

I have probably 50 installations like this and all have worked well......especially in hot weather.
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:03 AM   #102
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I guess you have to remove the top vent to gain access to the upper vent area. There is wall baffling built on the AS walls that extend up to the condenser area, very tight fit even for my hand between the absorber tubes and the baffle.

If you install computer fans up there can you hear them running from inside the trailer?

This weekend we are going out and the weather is starting to get warm, lower 90s. This will the first trip I get to see how the fridge in our 2008 Classic 25 performs. I've had a couple of RVs since 1986 before we got this Airstream both with 3 to 4 cu/ft Domectic fridges. The fridge in our 1986 Natl RV Dolphin Micro motorhome had a new cooling unit after about 4 years despite keeping the motor home level. Had a popup for a year after the MH and can't remember that tiny fridge's performance and then these last couple of years a 4 cu/ft Dometic in a Casita. I figured the larger fridges could take warmer weather better because there is more cool air in the box to get warm, doesn't seem to to be the case for a lot of owners. I also think the humidity is a factor for these fridges, the higher the humidity the harder it is to maintain cool temperatures. I've come to the conclusion these RV fridges are not meant to be opened a lot so keep the beverages in an ice chest in hot weather.

Kelvin
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:15 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
I guess you have to remove the top vent to gain access to the upper vent area. There is wall baffling built on the AS walls that extend up to the condenser area, very tight fit even for my hand between the absorber tubes and the baffle.

If you install computer fans up there can you hear them running from inside the trailer?

This weekend we are going out and the weather is starting to get warm, lower 90s. This will the first trip I get to see how the fridge in our 2008 Classic 25 performs. I've had a couple of RVs since 1986 before we got this Airstream both with 3 to 4 cu/ft Domectic fridges. The fridge in our 1986 Natl RV Dolphin Micro motorhome had a new cooling unit after about 4 years despite keeping the motor home level. Had a popup for a year after the MH and can't remember that tiny fridge's performance and then these last couple of years a 4 cu/ft Dometic in a Casita. I figured the larger fridges could take warmer weather better because there is more cool air in the box to get warm, doesn't seem to to be the case for a lot of owners. I also think the humidity is a factor for these fridges, the higher the humidity the harder it is to maintain cool temperatures. I've come to the conclusion these RV fridges are not meant to be opened a lot so keep the beverages in an ice chest in hot weather.

Kelvin
I would remove the upper vent cover on your model and zip tie (yes, zip ties ) the fans directly to the screening below. There should be enough clearance to do this.

One fact that I learned when at Dometic for a week of certification training a bunch of years ago.......for every minute that the fridge door is open, the gas/absorption fridge takes up to one hour to recover the lost cold air.

How's that for inefficiency?
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:51 PM   #104
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Hey Tim, could you de-engineer that unit to be manual temperature controlled, like set it to run almost full cold full time?
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:08 PM   #105
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Perry - no need to. When we run down the road, that is exactly how it runs anyway - full on. It doesn't shut off as evidenced by the HOT boiler.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:47 PM   #106
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New Arrival

Gee - look what showed up on my doorstep today. Wonder what it could be...
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:23 AM   #107
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Is that the freezer coil sticking out wrapped up? I'd think that would get easily damaged in shipping.

Good luck with the install.

Kelvin
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:51 AM   #108
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It is the freezer coil. I inspected it and it looks fine. They say if it gets bent in transition that it can be straightened.
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:24 PM   #109
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When are you planning to start the install?

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Old 05-26-2013, 07:38 PM   #110
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This coming Saturday actually. That is my first day off. I'll be taking lots of pictures for y'all.
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:56 PM   #111
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Fridge Removed

Well, I finally got the unit out of the trailer. I removed all of the hardware and used the pressure washer to clean off the back. I see a few things that I do not exactly like and I will point them out.

This is what I saw after a robust Pressure Washing.


The First thing I noted is that the slope of the moisture seperator just doesn't seem steep enough. Despite the deep crimp at the bend, the slope still seems shallow enough to allow condensed water vapour to enter the condenser. I have always expected this as an issue, but could never prove it.

I also noted some discoloration of theend of the bubbler/boiler. Actually, this discoloration extended over halfway along the boiler. The metal almost looks like it has a temper. Hard to believe for a system that quite obviously has liquid still in it.



The lower part of the boiler/bubbler seems unremarkable. Nothing unexpected here. You can see the chimney, and sleeves for the 12 volt and 120 volt heaters.
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Old 06-03-2013, 12:19 PM   #112
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Interested in how your fridge works????

FRVTS No1 RV Refrigerators Misdiagnosed Dometic Norcold Advanced Theory of Operation - YouTube
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