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Old 05-11-2013, 10:39 PM   #85
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lewster has mentioned in the past that the fridge drain tube can cause a draft while traveling. i think he mentioned that a screen should be on the end of that tube.
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:16 AM   #86
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What about the thermistor wire coming out the back. Speaking of thermistor where does everyone have theirs located on the fins? With my 7 cu/ft the fins run vertical and then curve at the bottom. I want the coldest performance so I've set my thermistor has high on the fins as possible.

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Old 05-12-2013, 08:50 AM   #87
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I tested the old Drain Tube by plugging it with a tissue, didn't help in my case.

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lewster has mentioned in the past that the fridge drain tube can cause a draft while traveling. i think he mentioned that a screen should be on the end of that tube.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:40 AM   #88
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Here is my latest test (and probably last test of this cooling unit). This test is a bypass test on Electric only. These graphs show 2 tests actually, the first dip represents an empty fridge and freezer and the second dip is all of my water jugs and bottles loaded in.
One thing you can see is that the fridge can cool down quite well on electric. Unloaded, the fridge would pull down to a really low temperature. Loaded, after 12 hours it still had not got down to 40 degrees BUT the water that went in the fridge was not pre-cooled so it is impressive that it did get as cold as it did.
Of course, none of this shows why it quits working when we get on the road.


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Old 05-12-2013, 10:03 AM   #89
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Tim

Back to richinny's question. The hole under my frig to allow the water to drain is all the way across the back of the frig from the flame. If yours is closer could the air currents be blowing out the flame at road speeds only to reignite at ever slow down or stop. Do you have a way to graph the duty cycle of the flame while traveling? Would your thermistor withstand being a fixed to the side of the chimney as a recorder?
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:55 PM   #90
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Put your thermocouple data logger thingy close to the firebox and it will tell you if it is getting blown out or not. Does your fridge have a 12V option?

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Old 05-12-2013, 08:25 PM   #91
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lewster has mentioned in the past that the fridge drain tube can cause a draft while traveling. i think he mentioned that a screen should be on the end of that tube.
Hard to believe....but true! The drain tube that comes from the drain pan located under the fins of the refer will allow the cold air of the fridge to leak out......unless it has the proper plug in it.

These plugs have small holes in them to allow the water to drip out slowly while keeping a majority of the cold air in the fridge.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:15 PM   #92
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I am pretty sure it is not getting blown out because at each stop, the boiler column is HOT! If the flame was blowing out, for a few moments then it would not appreciably impact boiler temperature. If it was blowing out enough to impact operation then I would expect the CHECK light to come on from failure to ignite OR the boiler would be cool. Neither happen so I suspect that the flame is lit the whole time based on the hot boiler temperature alone.
My drain tube is plugged with a tissue so I do not believe that a draft from there is an issue.
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:40 PM   #93
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Looking at post 29 where you show the fridge pulled out I can see the vent in the roof and the vent access on the trailer side wall. There isn't any baffling on the wall to channel hot air up to the roof vent. Is there baffling now between the fridge and the outside wall?

It appears you have done everything that you can do. The only resolution is a new fridge or cooling coil replacement.

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Old 05-13-2013, 06:49 PM   #94
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Yes, the vent is covered to keep the outsize air from passing into the cabin. Standard issue Airstream '70s refrigerator install. The vent cover seals over the top of the cabinet opening where the condenser heat exchanger is and ports the air over to the final roof vent.
That picture was from when we were doing a bunch of work and had everything ripped out.

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Looking at post 29 where you show the fridge pulled out I can see the vent in the roof and the vent access on the trailer side wall. There isn't any baffling on the wall to channel hot air up to the roof vent. Is there baffling now between the fridge and the outside wall?

It appears you have done everything that you can do. The only resolution is a new fridge or cooling coil replacement.

Kelvin
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:17 PM   #95
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Upgrades to install

When I do get the fridge removed and re-installed with the new cooling unit, I am also going to add some little features to help it cool better. I am doing this mostly because we do camp a lot in the desert. I plan on adding the following:
  • Power Fan
  • Fan Speed Controller
  • AC Unit baffle
First things first, I am going to mount a 12 volt radiator fan on the access door with a shroud that will ensure positive air flow through the back of the cabinet. I will include an interior baffle to prevent the fan from blowing out the flame should it be run on higher speeds. The fan is a 9" radiator fan that can move up to 850 C.F.M. if run on full speed. It will be a temporary mounting that I can remove as needed. It will just slip in the door.





Next I will run the fan at a lower, quieter speed by using a PWM DC Motor speed controller. With this controller I should be able to maintain a speed enough for cooling at a low current draw when in use.

Lastly, I had made a baffle that I will place between the air conditioner and refrigerator vent. Last year at the International Rally in Sadelia, MO, we had the fortune of being parked next to someone who had a baffle between their AC unit and fridge vent. The problem apparently is that the hot exhaust air blows on the fridge vent and stops it from venting properly. However, I am going to mount my baffle with a slight offset on the rear end such that as we are driving down the road it will help to pull some of the heat from the fridge vent like a wing - sort of.


I can say that when we are parked and the fridge is on, the upper cabinet tends to get toasty warm. It will be interesting to see if these changes help that.

Now - to order the new cooling unit. I am leaning towards a new Amish unit listed HERE. I looked around and found plenty of people who got one installed but only one complaint of it not working.
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:39 PM   #96
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Regarding the Amish site: I find the owner of that site to be very forthcoming with helpful advice and information. You might try bouncing your problem off of him before doing anything. He isn't going to simply push a new kit for you if it isn't needed, IMHO and experience.
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Old 05-16-2013, 04:41 AM   #97
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I wrote to him about it, but honestly, I am not expecting or looking for help anymore, I am jut looking to replace the unit. I am also looking for some thermocouple wire to throw on a few places and monitor temperatures...hehehe.
I ordered a new unit from him but he came back that they had no new ones in stock - would be 2-3 weeks before they made some. I can't wait that long so I ordered a rebuilt. I just want to get it swapped out before we depart for International and other places. I swear if that fridge don't work on this trip 100% my marriage may end.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:39 AM   #98
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Good luck with the installation of the replacement cooling unit. I hope it fits without modifications, goes in easy and and you have no further issues. Are you going to stay with the Dometic controller board? I see that site offers the Dinosaur replacement boards but i'm not sure if you fridge has one.

I watched a youTube video of someone replacing their cooling unit for a Norcold double door in a motorhome with one of these 'Amish' units. He built a an elevated framed plaform the same height of the fridge base and slide the fridge out onto it and then screwed it down onto the platform. He replaced the cooling unit inside the motorhome and after the installation leveled the platform and ran a test using AC to test it before installing the fridge back into its hole.

I hope you can take some photos of the process to share with us

Kelvin
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