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Old 06-17-2009, 01:58 PM   #43
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I can see it now (Boom, Boom) subwoofer running and all! - I do not know how far it leans back - I never thought of it before. I will have to measure on level ground
I have talked to Hensley and asked if they have a longer tow bar. They said "no" for safety reasons. I may have to get one custom made.

As to whether or not it runs hitched up - good question. I do know that traveling down the road it starts to warm up and the situation doesn't get better as the days go by, even if we unhitch. Symptoms as indicated by feeling the temperatures of the boiler and absorber coils (as outlined in the diagnostic manual) still point to blockage. I have never hitched up all on level and normal ground and sat that way to see what happens. That might be an interesting test. For now, all that will be different is the baffeling behind and the icebox being the level point. It is a temporary setup so I can go back to the old way if I need to.

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Originally Posted by VIKING View Post
Maybe time to have the Hummer slammed?

Or put a lift-kit on your Airstream.

How far does it tilt the Airstream back when hitched up?

Rich
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Old 06-17-2009, 02:41 PM   #44
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If you can determine how much it sits out of level you could install the refer in a "compromised position", so to speak. Half way off one direction when towing, and half way off the opposite direction when in camp mode.
Who knows? It might work!
Rich
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Old 06-17-2009, 04:32 PM   #45
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swap the trailer fridge with the moho fridge and report back.

just a wild random thought.

I wouldn't slam the 50 cal carrier. maybe just have a set of smaller diameter wheel/tires for towing only. and a few extra bottles of vodka for arrival parties.
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:51 PM   #46
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Yea, right! Thanks DG!
So the status is that I have remounted the fridge to be level with respect to the icebox. That is now level to within a half a degree. We'll see how it goes. As a test I have fired up the fridge (standing still of course) and it is loaded with a dozen bottles of water and my trusty temperature data logging probe. That will just let me know that it works.
It should be pointed out the inside of the freezer is not plumb with respect to the mounting flange. So - the bottom of the fridge now sticks out but the top does not as much. It doesn't look pretty but it will be something I can quickly reverse should this not work. I will let you all know how it works tomorrow and I will post the data. I bet y'all can't wait!
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Old 06-19-2009, 11:40 PM   #47
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It works so far.....

Well, th efirst test with the new level showsx that it works. I will note that within minutes of plugging it in the outlet from the boiler going to the condenser heated up. It gets nice and hot! (don't touch).
I put the probe in and loaded a dozen water bottles (I was out of beer).
It chilled it from 80 to around 40 by a reasonable time. I will firm up that install, put the walls back up and we'll see how she handles the road.
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:59 AM   #48
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Glad to see things are working. It's been 2 months since your first post in early Spring and now it's Summer. Hope it keeps working.

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Old 06-20-2009, 08:12 PM   #49
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Well, I will not be able to post temperature data from the road, that will have to wait until we get back. I did think about putting a couple of thermocouples on the unit so I could monitor a few points in the cycle.
Well, if it doesn't work we'll know right away - the fridge temp will go up within a few hours.
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:50 PM   #50
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Well, I can say for just about sure that the fridge STILL doesn't work. We have been on the road for just over 1-1/2 hours and we pulled off to get something to drink. Open the fridge and the temperature is already going up. Same thing as always happens.
The work I did was to seal everything that wasn't sealed, baffle the back compartment and Level the fridge based on the ice box.
What we saw when we opened the door and saw 45 degrees at the top of the fridge and 48 at the bottom.
When we packed it we put only food from out house fridge/freezer so all was cold and the trailer's fridge had been chilling for days.
We are on gas and what I find is the boiler is HOT and the absorber coils are luke warm at best, the same damn thing as always.
Oh, I did check the overall level of the fridge and see 2.5 degrees lean towards the rear and about a half a degree lean towards curbside. Is 2.5 degrees lean enough to cause us THIS much trouble? I can't believe it.
We are going to pack the most perishable items in the cooler we brought along and the rest can stay in the fridge and we will see how it does for the rest of the trip out there.
I am thinking that when I first fired the fridge up after all of this work it was filled with bottles of water we had in the trailer. All in all it was warm - 80 degrees at the start. By 3:00 in the morning it was down to temperature. We'll see how mine is in the morning. If the temp is still going up that should well indicate once again a blockage.
Is there anybody else out there from Dometic who can tell me what else I should try?
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:00 PM   #51
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Not to beat a dead horse, but if you know it's not level why do you think it must be something else?
If it's sitting nose-high every small acceleration and incline increases the effect of it being out of level even more. It seems like it's about the only thing you haven't tried, yet. You could test this statically by jacking the trailer out of level at night to simulate the situation it's in during travel, and see if a few degrees out is all it takes to cause it to warm up.
I'm assuming that when you initially cooled it down you were not sitting out of level, or not as much. Is that the case?
Curious problem. I hope you can get it resolved.
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:56 PM   #52
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Actually, I know it is level...

UPDATE: We pulled into a gas station and checked the fridge. The ground was level as could be. Bottom temp now up to 55 degrees and top 53. The damned thing ain't working. I checked the level in the icebox, the location I was told by Dometic's senior tech rep. It was within 0.3 degrees both axises. That sucker IS level with the trailer level.
Boiler hot as can be. Absorber luke warm, outlet pipe from the condenser was also cool - not warm at all. I had to reach way up there to get at it.

What I still believe is that my axles are part if not all of the problem - I have fixed everything else! I seriously have no idea what to check next!

I am going to thaw it out at madison and then fire it up on gas (just to prove once and for all that gas does work. Heck, last day I will even jack the trailer back just to see if it in fact does anything.
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Old 06-24-2009, 11:22 AM   #53
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Stopped for the night at about 12:30. Opened the fridge aznd it was 55 degrees and the freever had begun to thaw - I wiped off the moisture with a towel. We put all the food in the cooler so it is safe. Now I am in experiment mode... I no longer care what happens to this fridge - I just want it to work.
I am going to fashion together a manometer just to verify gas pressure is good and that the boiler isn't "overfiring" as it were.
This morning, all was almost back to normal, 43 degrees in the fridge compt. Boiler was hot, Absorber was quite warm but not exactly the same as the boiler. I do think I am getting more than adiquate cooling as the outlet from the boiler going to the condensor. Inlet temp to the condensor - 140 degrees by optical pyrometer. Outlet temp is maybe 85 degrees.
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Old 06-24-2009, 01:07 PM   #54
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sounds like the fridge is wanting to work.
seeing as you are now in the experiment mode--- have you tried what I suggested earlier, plug the drain pipe from the inside of the fridge compartment to the outside world. something temporary, gum,, cheese.. duct tape even. then drive on and see what gives. please...
or develop a taste for warm beer.
BTW I have a fridge that doesn't work here a VVH. I trade for your's. "o_O"
keep the faith, you'll get it going again.
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Old 06-24-2009, 01:13 PM   #55
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Axles not the problem???

Well, we are 2 hours into our drive this morning. Left Wendover, UT. Got through Salt Lake City and up the pass to Park City. Pulled off to get some water & stretch our legs.
Opened the trailer door and saw this....

Fridge up to 60 - in 2 hours.

But take a look at the wall on the right side of the fridge - it has busted loose from the channel. We are on average freeways. We aren't suffering any vital organ damage from the bumps, etc..

If too stiff axles are NOT the root of the problem, I just don't know anymore what is. Andy from Inland RV told me that there was practically no way those stronger axles would cause fridge problems. I just don't agree - they sure seem to be doing other damage. And Uwe warned me about it, but it was too late because I already had purchased them. I will be in the market for new axles...
DG - you will be getting these axles sooner than later!
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Old 06-24-2009, 01:25 PM   #56
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fill all your tanks with water, see if it softens the ride, if the TV will handle it. Are any rivets poppin out? so now you have warm shaken up beer? man, that's not good.
Luckily you beloved wife Kimber is with you in this time of need.she will keep you sane.
something I have noticed here at VVH. while parked, level, if the wind is a cross wind (90 degree to center line of trailer, not an angry wind) the fridge does not cool as well as when the wind is down the c/l of the trailer. weird huh, so aerodynamics happens. When I pull down the hwy at 60mph on a 95 degree day my fridge works best, also weird, maybe not. got the chimney thing going I suppose.
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