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Old 06-11-2013, 12:27 PM   #155
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Also make sure your door gasket is sealing correctly or you will loose alot of cool out that gasket.

Perry
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:55 PM   #156
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Well, we are on the road and it doesn't look good. 2 hours in to our trip on a 70 degree day the fridge has gone from 34 degrees to 40. And now that I have thermocouples on the unit I can see some interesting stuff.

Boiler is at a proper temperature - 325 degrees. Ammonia temperature going to the fridge is a cool 70 degrees. This indicated plenty of air circulation or a blockage. Inlet to the high temp evaporator is 43 degrees where it ran in the teens every other time I have ran the fridge. Again, an indication of loss of circulation.

I give more updates later but it looks like I haves a cursed trailer and/ or fridge.
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Old 06-19-2013, 06:51 AM   #157
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Wow, I'm so sorry you are reporting bad news. Does the fridge go back to normal operation when stationary?. Do you see the temperature at the boiler change while towing?

I checked your first post on the thread and you stated the same issue with the old fridge. Then this started to happen with the new Dometic and now it's happening with the new cooling unit installed. Even if the unit is not level when stationary, when towing that shouldn't be an issue. Does the company that sold you the cooling unit have technical support?

Kelvin
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:19 AM   #158
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You know, you maybe the first to properly document the operation of these things. You need a normal unit to compare to if such a thing exists. Maybe there is something about the shaking of the trailer that disrupts the natural convection cycle in the fridge. Does the fridge return to normal when you stop moving?

Perry
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:28 AM   #159
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Problem Fixed?

Perhaps the problem is fixed. I did discover that the bottom door was not shutting all the way enough so that I am locking the bottom part of the door shut by using the unused hinge bracket on the right side to lock it closed.

But the issue was real - it was not cooling and I know this because of the 43 degree temperature at the inlet to the High Temperature Evaporator, where I buried that thermocouple. That thermocouple alone can show that cooling is happening or not. A 43 degree temperature can only indicate that there was no cooling.

As soon as I applied my little "fix" the temperature started coming down such that when we stopped for the night, the fridge was back in range from 40 degrees and the HTE inlet was 17 degrees - meaning it was working. This morning, even though we are parked on a somewhat uncomfortable slope, the fridge is at 34 degrees with everything still working.

So, now a little game - ignoring the potential crack on the bottom of the door, what else could have made the fridge stop working? Remember, this is a game, use your analytical skills to figure it out. I will give a prize of a VAC T-shirt and a membership/subscription to the VAC as well to the person who guesses it first. But you are going to have to think outside the box!!!! (that was a clue).

If you are a tech who works on these, I would be disappointed if you do not guess straight away.
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:48 AM   #160
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Answer: a plugged vent in the area behind the refer?

Just gotta say this has been an exceptionally interesting thread for me, since I am moving toward installing a used refer in my TT where there has been a compressor-type since we bought Henri (my TT). The unit is sitting in my shed just waiting to have its operation confirmed before I install it.

I love the thermocouples you added; great way to really know what is happening with the refer!

I can't recall if you installed vent fans to cool inside the refer and in the enclosure it's in. if you did, would you please share what size and CFM type you put in?

Thanks!
Aage
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Old 06-19-2013, 11:56 AM   #161
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Question

BC,

I've always been led to believe that the cooling units were installed several degrees off plumb to enable proper circulation. So our leveling of the trailer would ensure the system will work as designed....am I rong?

Bob
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:13 PM   #162
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Okay I give, what was the fix!
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:41 PM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage View Post
Answer: a plugged vent in the area behind the refer?

Just gotta say this has been an exceptionally interesting thread for me, since I am moving toward installing a used refer in my TT where there has been a compressor-type since we bought Henri (my TT). The unit is sitting in my shed just waiting to have its operation confirmed before I install it.

I love the thermocouples you added; great way to really know what is happening with the refer!

I can't recall if you installed vent fans to cool inside the refer and in the enclosure it's in. if you did, would you please share what size and CFM type you put in?

Thanks!
Aage
Aage, thank you for playing. Your answer is incorrect. Please try again later.

Henri is such a cute name for a trailer. Great choice. My suggestion to you would be to pull out that fridge, set it in level ground and plug that heating element in to see if the unit works. You may have to make a cord to power the heater directly but that is the best way to test it. You don't need anything special, just a power cord hooked up to the heater directly. Check the resistance of the element first to be within 10% of the listed specs for your unit.

Once plugged in, you should start to see cooling in the freezer in about an hour. You can keep it plugged in for hours to see what temp it gets down to. It does not need to be in a cabinet to test like this. If you have one of those Radio Shack optical thermal sensors you can measure around the back of the fridge to see that it is working.

I did install a vent fan and baffle on the top of the fridge that will draw air through the condenser fins as needed to remove excess heat. This has been a problem for us in that with the fridge running, it would hear up out cabinets on the left hand side. This fan will totally solve that problem. It is a 7" car radiator fan that I hooked up to a speed regulator to control the air flow and noise to an acceptable level. I dial it down to about 6 watts of draw and it is very quiet but does a great job of keeping the cabinet cool. We will see how it handles Midwest heat.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:56 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
BC,

I've always been led to believe that the cooling units were installed several degrees off plumb to enable proper circulation. So our leveling of the trailer would ensure the system will work as designed....am I rong?

Bob
Bob, I am not an expert but my answer would be yes, you are wrong. At a reasonable level, the liquid fluids drain in the direction they are supposed to. Operating off level could actually impede or stop proper fluid movement in the unit.
The coils all have a little bit if slope in them to ensure the liquid fluids move where they should.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:59 PM   #165
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Okay I give, what was the fix!
Damon! Come on!!!! Think about it. Put on yer thinking cap. I want to give others a chance to really ponder this.
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Old 06-19-2013, 03:11 PM   #166
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The roof exhaust vent was full of pine needles and leaves.

Paula
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:54 PM   #167
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The roof exhaust vent was full of pine needles and leaves.

Paula
Nope, it has more than adequate ventilation. Isn't this a fun game!!!!
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Old 06-19-2013, 10:19 PM   #168
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I guess I will have to let the cat out of the bag on this a little. The problem was one of TOO MUCH COOLING. It wasn't snuffing out the flame because the boiler was still hot. It is still boiling ammonia. But with too much air flow, it was cooling not only the boiler and its insulation, but all of the separator piping going up to the condenser.
What was happening was the ammonia vapor was condensing in the separator piping and never making it to the actual condenser and therefore, there was no liquid ammonia going to the freezer.
The answer was to actually restrict the amount of air blowing in through the grate/hatch and voila, temperatures returned to normal.
I knew something was wrong when the boiler outlet temperature was at 120 degrees and the condenser inlet was 80 degrees, there had to be precious little ammonia vapor making it into the condenser and therefore available to cool the fridge. Whatever did eventually make it to the evaporator sections was keeping the freezer cool, leaving nothing left for the fridge.

I can't wait to download my data from my probes in the freezer and fridge to see what they were doing.

So, who would have guessed this as the problem?
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